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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 3:51 pm 
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Location: Vienna Austria
You probably don't need to go as high in the rear if the flange spacing is symmetrical.

Why straight gauge rears? Butted should last longer.


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Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 3:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 5:21 pm 
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Well straight gauge are bigger, I would assume it will mâle a more robust rear wheel, mostly for starts.
Louis :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:43 pm 
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LouisN wrote:
Well straight gauge are bigger, I would assume it will mâle a more robust rear wheel, mostly for starts.
Louis :)


Plain gauge... no, not really, unless it is a wheel for very heavy load

https://whosatthewheel.com/2017/11/12/t ... -dynamics/

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 7:04 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
For a 290mm sapim race and brass nipple weight is 7.25g for reference.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Hi All,

I've read the thread, OCD clearly but I found it interesting! Mostly :D .

So a question:

I have a Farsports 50x25mm tubular rear wheel, 24 spokes laced 2x DS, radial heads out NDS on a 2:1 Bitex ED hub. Had it 2 seasons and it's been well behaved and checking it with my newly acquired Park TM1 it is evenly tensioned and appears well built.

But.

It's not that stiff, or having read Roger Musson's book, it may be that the rim is very stiff but anyway I get movement at the brakes, enough to rub when climbing out of the saddle.

I'm light (60kg) but I had a thought that I could improve the NDS bracing angle slightly by re-lacing it heads in, sacrificing a little tension in the cause of lateral stiffness. With only 8 spokes on the NDS it's hard to see them ripping the flange apart?

So, given the risks of re-building it and me making a Horlicks of a currently pretty good wheel:

1 - is it worth it?
2 - could/should I re-use the spokes? (I'm guessing change in length will be trivial but thinking about fatigue in the elbows)

Nipples are SILS in a fetching red colour if that makes a difference.

Thanks!
Nixster


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:08 pm 
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Location: Vienna Austria
No, yes.

It won't be perceptibly stiffer, but you might break the flange.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:27 am 
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the main problem is the hub. the bitex 2:1 is not a proper 2:1 hub in book as the flange spacing are not optimises for 2:! lacing. you will get a stiffer wheel with a std bitex hub. for the wheel to be stiffer with 2:1 lacing you need a NDS flange at least 45mm from centre.

So if you want a stiffer wheel dont mess about replace the hub.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:08 am 
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So a small update on my rear-wheel Mavic Open Pro UST build. It took quite long to finish because it was really hard sourcing the rim.

I decided to build a slightly better wheel than initially planned. So I went for a DT 350 rear hub DT revolution 2.0/1.5/2.0 spokes aluminum nipples on the NDS and brass on the DS. The wheel has 28 spokes, and is laced 2-cross. I also decided to use it for trying out tubeless.

The build went quite well, took me only about 6 hours compared to 12 for my first rear-wheel build - and this was mostly because I forgot to lube the rim-nipple interface and had a lot of DS-nipples round off, so I replaced all DS nipples which took some time. One thing that slightly worries me is that I have 109kgf on the DS but only 52kgf on the NDS, but lets see how it holds up with time.

Thanks a lot for all the comments/suggestions!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 12:41 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
dont worry about that tension balance. I have personal wheels with under 400N NDS and they are quite stable.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 5:02 am 
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Chasing a wide alloy rim for an everyday road disc wheelset. What's the current hotness to build 28/28, more than likely onto hope hubs in 12x100/142

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 2:06 pm 
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@Nefarious: I have not yet tried out my Mavic Open Pro UST build yet, but it sounds to me that the disc version of the rim fits all your criteria.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:29 pm 
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They do look good, my only concern with them was how tight some people find them when installing tyres.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:07 am 
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Nefarious86 wrote:
They do look good, my only concern with them was how tight some people find them when installing tyres.

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... which ultimately limits your choice of tyres significantly... seems an unnecessary hassle

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:18 am 
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Yes, especially considering they will be used with regular tubes/tyres.

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Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:18 am 


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 12:48 pm 
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Nefarious86 wrote:
Yes, especially considering they will be used with regular tubes/tyres.

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No go area then. Beside the tightness, my understanding is that Open PRO UST have a pressure limit of ca. 87 PSI, which in essence means tubeless only... unless you use 28 mm tubed tyres.

The moral is pointless to spend extra for UST tubeless rims and then use them with inner tubes

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