The wheelbuilding thread
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Evening all,
Talking myself into building some wheels for Crits only. Currently weigh 63kg. Never built a wheel before so the LBS will be tensioning/truing.
38mm Chinese Rims (Carbon tubs) 20/24H on to 20/24H Hope RS Hubs with CX ray spokes. Any issue with radial lacing these wheels. Hope say yes, however some wheelbuiders have said no?
Can anyone suggest an optimum lacing pattern.
Currently sifting through this great thread, lots of gen, so many options!
Cheers
Talking myself into building some wheels for Crits only. Currently weigh 63kg. Never built a wheel before so the LBS will be tensioning/truing.
38mm Chinese Rims (Carbon tubs) 20/24H on to 20/24H Hope RS Hubs with CX ray spokes. Any issue with radial lacing these wheels. Hope say yes, however some wheelbuiders have said no?
Can anyone suggest an optimum lacing pattern.
Currently sifting through this great thread, lots of gen, so many options!
Cheers
If the hub maker says no radial, try 1x. You can do it all heads in/out like you would radial.
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I've done 1x heads in on the DS as a way to increase bracing angle. Other than slightly reducing derailleur clearance it works ok. I don't see why you couldn't do it on the NDS. You could do heads out like typical radial NDS spoking (which slightly reduces tension differential at the cost of reducing bracing angle). For 1x all heads in/out you may need to put a slight bend in the outer spoke at the cross. Spoke angle into the rim would be the same as radial, into the hub is different but no more so than 2x.
The rear NDS spokes are at the lowest tension of any spokes in the wheel so if radial is going to be safe anywhere it should be safe there.
But for the rear NDS I'd just do 2x. None of the alternative spoke patterns I have tried on the rear have been markedly better for spoke life than 2x/2x or 3xDS/2xNDS.
The rear NDS spokes are at the lowest tension of any spokes in the wheel so if radial is going to be safe anywhere it should be safe there.
But for the rear NDS I'd just do 2x. None of the alternative spoke patterns I have tried on the rear have been markedly better for spoke life than 2x/2x or 3xDS/2xNDS.
I had a few issues with NDS CX-rays breaking on a Chris King R45 hub using 3x so tried 1x heads out and it seems to have stopped the breakages.eric wrote: You could do heads out like typical radial NDS spoking (which slightly reduces tension differential at the cost of reducing bracing angle). For 1x all heads in/out you may need to put a slight bend in the outer spoke at the cross.
Caad78. You've not really talked yourself into building yourself a wheel set if you plan to have your LBS do the interesting part, tensioning and truing. You might as well leave them to do the entire build including lacing. At your 63kg 20/24 radial front and 2x/2x rear lacing is pretty much the choice. For spokes. If you don't opt for CX-Ray or Dt aerolites then try laser front, laser non-drive and race drive, or DT equivalents. Insist on measured tension and balanced.
Hope RS are radial compatible to 24h. Good to go.
Good luck.
Hope RS are radial compatible to 24h. Good to go.
Good luck.
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I find Laser spokes both side work very well at your very light weight. Race spokes DS is a bit over kill, the rear wheel will be more than stiff enough with Lasers boths sides and it will be stable in the long term. I build alot with lasers both sides on the rear wheel and have zero issues most of my own wheels (I am 80 kg) use Lasers both sides on the rear my wheels are still very straight.
However as you are not truing and tensioning your LBS is they have to be comfortable with the parts and spokes you suggest. So take all advise here but if your LBS feels uncomortable about that choice humour them they have to feel comfortable building the wheel.
However as you are not truing and tensioning your LBS is they have to be comfortable with the parts and spokes you suggest. So take all advise here but if your LBS feels uncomortable about that choice humour them they have to feel comfortable building the wheel.
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bm0p700f wrote:The thing is Miche hubs give this sort of tension balance and they work very well and build very reliable wheels. I have done hundreds.
I'd be interested to hear what tension levels these Miche builds produce.
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Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
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Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
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The RR440 is fine rim. Tyre mounting is the same as the RR415 and RR465 not hard with conti tyres but I rarely find any tyre hard to mount except gator skin hardshell's on Mavic MA40 rims with those I had to resort to using a tyre lever to help.
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Sjoerd wrote:Is there anyone around that can provide me with some information regarding the DT Swiss RR440 rim? To be more specific: is it hard to mount a tire on them?
Thanks!
I mounted up a set of GP4000s on the RR440 and I didn't find them to be difficult at all.
They aren't in the same league as some of the Campagnolo rims, but I would say they are quite snug (about perfect IMO)
A bit of talc and the average Conti Tyre will slip on with hands alone (as it should be).
A bit of talc and the average Conti Tyre will slip on with hands alone (as it should be).
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