The wheelbuilding thread

[synthesis]

opinion on Notubes ZTR Alpha 340´s? looks ok, not super wide - 20mm - 17mm 334g in 24 hole

[jooo]

Wow, I don't think I've ever seen one that light.

I think I remember reading that the only rims coming in at around 340grams were from the very first run and that they were beefed up to around 360grams shortly after. The claimed weight is now 385grams.

[synthesis]

This guy (where the pic. is from) has old stock of them 24 - 28 hole.

[jooo]

It would be a great choice for a light duty front wheel when paired with a good geo hub. Not a great choice on the rear though, too fragile there for all bar the lightest.

[BoSoxYacht]

It would be a great choice for a light duty front wheel when paired with a good geo hub. Not a great choice on the rear though, too fragile there for all bar the lightest.

Version 2 is fine for rear wheels if your aren't a load, but version 1 is quite fragile. My V1 rear wheel didn'the last 10k miles, but the front has over 50k miles with no issues. I weigh about 175lbs

[Marin]

50k! You don't have to brake a lot right?

[Anth73]

I decided to take the plunge and build myself a wheelset using Kinlin TB25 rims, Bitex Rar9/Raf10 hubs and Sapim Race spokes laced radial front and 2x both sides on the rear. Nipples are wheelsmith 12mm brass with Rock n' Roll Nipple Cream used on the spoke threads.

The front has been perfect however I'm experience a couple of NDS spokes on the rear wheel unwinding. Initially I tensioned the drive side to 110kgf but bumped that up to 130kgf to try resolve the NDS spokes unwinding. At 130kgf (23 on my Park tension meter) the NDS tension averaged 68kgf with. Variance of around 10%.

My understanding is that 130kgf is about as high as you should go with Sapim Race spokes. Any thought on what I can do to stop the couple of NDS spokes from unwinding? At this stage I'm considering Sapim Laser spokes on the NDS.

[bm0p700f]

The park tm1 is ok for rekative tesnion but not for knowing what thw tension actually is,

The problem you are finding maybe due to low tesion but even if your park guage is out by what i think is 1300n on the chart (that will be 10 to 15% less on reality) should be enough. You can add a smidge more tension.

Your main issue will be stress relieving and that 10% vaiance. Really grasp pairs of spokes untill you stop seeing a tension drop. Ture after wards. Reduce the tenion variance and comprimise on wheel striaghtness and roundness. Personally i never try to true out radial movement, if the rim is jot round enough when there is even tension +/-5% then it gets binned. Place the wheel on the endcaps (on block of wood) and sideload the rim. Be careful doing this. How much load you can place depends on the stiffness of the rim. You don,t want to place so much load that you detension spokes but you want to get close. The wheel will go out of true. So true and even tensions out and repeat until the wheel settles down. There will come a point where you can sideload and the wheels trueness does not chnage. That is when the wheel is ready to be ridden, This is why i am quite particular about the hubs i use as not all hub can take that side sideload. tune hubs don't like it but i think bixtex will be o.k though.

[BoSoxYacht]

50k! You don't have to brake a lot right?

7 inches of rainfall annually might also have something to do with it

[Subira]

Has anyone any recommendation for a Chinese 38mm Clincher rim that I can run tubeless - with tape etc? These are for fast(ish) road use.

I built a set of tubulars using the Light-Bicycle 38s in 32 hole into Hope Evo hubs and they came out nice and bullet proof.

Light do a suitable rim, just not seen any feedback, will build these 24 hole on the new Hope Evo 4, probably using Sapim Race.

Any suggestions out there?

[Asymptotic]

Ok, round two of building with SL23's as the V1 version cracked of course. Instead of CX rays I'm going a bit more conservative with DT Comps (2x - rear wheel) as the V2 rim is 37g lighter then V1 (455g). Also using nipple washers for both sides.

So this really should be ok to build to 110kgf this right? Any comments from others building with the V2 rim. I'm 74kg for reference.

[bm0p700f]

Use 1200N ds rear this rim does not crack. Kgf is not an SI unit force is measured in Newtons.
Being a pedant now.

Why not re use your cx rays you have them silly to waste them.

[thebadgerboy1982]

hi all,

i fancy giving ryde rims a go for days climbing. i was looking at the pulse comp but rydes site suggests that the rim is for 25-30mm tyres. Looking at the ryde sprint, the site suggests 23-30mm. Other than the rim depth the specs look the same; internal rim width etc. my frame won't take a 25mm tyre on a wide rim. does anyone have experience of running the pulse comp with 23mm tyres? if i need to go down the sprint route how stiff are the rims in a 28 spoke hole probably with cx-rays?

cheers
ross

[rich00]

Hi All,

I'm looking at doing a new wheel build and giving the wide rims ago. Currently I'm using kinlin XR270 on novatec hubs 24 front 2x/ 28 rear 2x with DT comps spokes. I've used these for crits and I'm a bit of a sprinter and found these to be fine. I'm currently 87Kg (82kg when I used race.) I'm looking at a build kit XR31T with CX-Ray spokes, I'm in two minds to build a 24/28 or go 20/24. I don't race anymore but still do the spirited group ride.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks in advance
Rich

[Marin]

20/28 should be fine.

I'm lighter than you (75-77kg) and I need stronger spokes rear DS on 24 spoke rear wheels, so I would recommend that too if you go 24 in the rear.