The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
- Location: Australia
With the Novatec hubs, do I HAVE to change the side-caps when I change from Shimano to Campy? I've built my wheels for Shimano, however I am now running Campy and swapping the sidecaps means I will have to re-dish my wheel (which I am too lazy to do). Would it be possible to run the Shimano sidecaps with a Campy cassette?
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
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You will have to redish either way, just slightly less.
By not swapping the endcaps you're effectively increasing the OLD (like Alchemy did for their Campy hub) but the rim will still be slightly left of center.
I do this all the time because it improves the dish for Campy wheels, and the dropouts on most frames are further apart than 130mm anyway.
By not swapping the endcaps you're effectively increasing the OLD (like Alchemy did for their Campy hub) but the rim will still be slightly left of center.
I do this all the time because it improves the dish for Campy wheels, and the dropouts on most frames are further apart than 130mm anyway.
bm0p700f wrote:I find it hard sometimes to convince people who come into the shop that the Novatec hubs are a good high end option. They do not have a high end proice or a name that people accosiate with. Mention DT Swis 240's and there eye's light up. I think this is a shame as I know which hubs I would use my self and it's not the DT's...
Yeah, the DTs have very little going for them and the msrp is a joke. The bearings may be better than the NTs, but they should be considered a wear item. I suspect that the Novatecs are like some Formula hubs I had once. You could replace all the rear bearings in ~ hr with $4 worth of bolts, nuts and washers + a few mechanic's sockets.
Cyclist are no different than other consumers in that many automatically equate $$$ with superior quality and performance. I'm not immune myself, once owning some pos 0Gs that wouldn't stay centered and would drive me to distraction when I tried to remount the rear wheel with the tire inflated.
Anyway the SLs will definitely be included in my next build. Bob D. is 1st rate and it will be a pleasure to send him my hard earned $150 ( + postage )
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I think the Novatec uses EZO bearings. It doe not cost much to replace them with SKF bearings or even ceramic if you are really bothered about bearing quality or weight. They are very easy for pull apart as well and require no special tools.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 16
- Joined: Fri Apr 10, 2009 4:50 pm
- Location: USA
Is it true that you can't or shouldn't build a 24-hole wheel 3x on the drive side. I'm building a Stan's Alpha 340 rim to the new Shimano 9000 24-hole hub and was looking to go radial on the non-drive side and 3x on the drive side. Would it be better to build a 2x on both side for this build. Needs to be stiff and light.
Scott
Scott
lechat wrote:I'm sure the stock bearings are fine. And at 290gms a set, the weight is very competitive.
Where does one find these Novatec hubs everyone is talking about? I'm struggling finding a good (online) source...
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
- Location: Australia
I second the above, very helpful and deliver quickly to Australia
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
policedutchdog wrote:Is it true that you can't or shouldn't build a 24-hole wheel 3x on the drive side. I'm building a Stan's Alpha 340 rim to the new Shimano 9000 24-hole hub and was looking to go radial on the non-drive side and 3x on the drive side. Would it be better to build a 2x on both side for this build. Needs to be stiff and light.
Scott
You can, but it serves no purpose, and the spokes would interfere with one another at the flange.
I'd lace 1x DS heads in, 2x NDS.
- MajorMantra
- Posts: 286
- Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:38 pm
Can someone with actual experience confirm for me that the SL211 is ok with 11 speed Campagnolo? Something a few pages back made me doubt this.
Is 16:8 build reliable, on a 32h Powertap with a 24h, 38mm Boyd carbon clincher ?
I know the powertap flanges are not very wide, so stiffness wouln't be at it's best...
160 lbs rider.
Anybody tried this ?
I am trying to find an answer her, nothing so far in the road section.
Louis
I know the powertap flanges are not very wide, so stiffness wouln't be at it's best...
160 lbs rider.
Anybody tried this ?
I am trying to find an answer her, nothing so far in the road section.
Louis
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 3:37 am
Hey guys, I've got a question about a set of wheels I plan to have built. I've been wading through this thread trying to narrow down my options, but without starting from the very beginning it's hard to tell what information may be out-dated. I only say this as I have tried to answer my questions without resorting to rehashing a topic which has been covered previously.
I'm wanting to build a set of (haha) lightweight climbing clinchers that are as stiff as possible. Lightweight is most important, cost second, stiffness third; so I would like them as stiff as possible given the weight. I'd like to shoot for the 1400g range, and maybe $400-$500. This would be my racing wheel set so they don't really have to stand up to everyday training use... although I'm sure I will whip them out our local version of Tuesday Night Worlds from time to time.
As background, I weigh roughly 70-72kg (155-160lb) at all times. I enjoy and do best at explosive efforts on steepish grades. I would say 90% of the time I ride on roads that are fairly well maintained, so my roads don't often damage my wheel sets.
I owned an A23 build before and was fairly impressed with them, but have heard good things about the Stan's 340/400's and would like to choose between these three (at this point I'm leaning toward the 340's). Obviously, I'd like to go with Sapim spokes, but are there any comparable and lower priced alternatives (possibly the Laser's instead of CX or DTSwiss)?
The only place I really don't know where to go is the hubs and hole count. There are the old standby's of something like Ultegra or DA, but it seems there are lots of options that are more affordable and offer great performance. I'm not a terribly heavy guy, but at the same time don't want to sacrifice much in the way of durability if I can help it. Either way, thanks for help!
I'm wanting to build a set of (haha) lightweight climbing clinchers that are as stiff as possible. Lightweight is most important, cost second, stiffness third; so I would like them as stiff as possible given the weight. I'd like to shoot for the 1400g range, and maybe $400-$500. This would be my racing wheel set so they don't really have to stand up to everyday training use... although I'm sure I will whip them out our local version of Tuesday Night Worlds from time to time.
As background, I weigh roughly 70-72kg (155-160lb) at all times. I enjoy and do best at explosive efforts on steepish grades. I would say 90% of the time I ride on roads that are fairly well maintained, so my roads don't often damage my wheel sets.
I owned an A23 build before and was fairly impressed with them, but have heard good things about the Stan's 340/400's and would like to choose between these three (at this point I'm leaning toward the 340's). Obviously, I'd like to go with Sapim spokes, but are there any comparable and lower priced alternatives (possibly the Laser's instead of CX or DTSwiss)?
The only place I really don't know where to go is the hubs and hole count. There are the old standby's of something like Ultegra or DA, but it seems there are lots of options that are more affordable and offer great performance. I'm not a terribly heavy guy, but at the same time don't want to sacrifice much in the way of durability if I can help it. Either way, thanks for help!
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- Posts: 849
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
- Location: Australia
@DividedVolta:
I would recommend Kinlin XR-200 or Stans ZTR Alpha 340 rims laced 24/28 to BHS SL218 and SLF71 hubs with CX-Ray spokes. This set should be sub 1300g when built with alloy nipples and will definetley fit your budget if you opt for the XR-200 rim.
I would recommend Kinlin XR-200 or Stans ZTR Alpha 340 rims laced 24/28 to BHS SL218 and SLF71 hubs with CX-Ray spokes. This set should be sub 1300g when built with alloy nipples and will definetley fit your budget if you opt for the XR-200 rim.
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
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- in the industry
- Posts: 5777
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
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I was about the suggest tsimilar. My hub recomendation though is for Novatec A291 SB ( or A291 SB-SL) and F482 SB (or F482 SB-SL) flange spacing of these is better than the BHS hubs. They do weigh a little bit more.
My Kinlin XR-200 build with 28F/28R using A291 SB and F482 SB hubs and sapim laser spokes all round/alloy nipples wirgh in at 1362g. It is stiff enough for my 79 kg and power I produce. It is also cheap. If cost is important then don't use the Stans alpaha rim. The novatec hubs are cheap also.
If I had a 24H XR-200 rim up front and used the Novatec A291 SB-SL and F482 SB-SL hubs with the same spokes and nipples then the weight would have been 1307g.
My Kinlin XR-200 build with 28F/28R using A291 SB and F482 SB hubs and sapim laser spokes all round/alloy nipples wirgh in at 1362g. It is stiff enough for my 79 kg and power I produce. It is also cheap. If cost is important then don't use the Stans alpaha rim. The novatec hubs are cheap also.
If I had a 24H XR-200 rim up front and used the Novatec A291 SB-SL and F482 SB-SL hubs with the same spokes and nipples then the weight would have been 1307g.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com