The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Since the triplet has 16 spokes on the DS, you put in 32 spokes on spocalc. I get 284.4mm for DS 3x. 2x is 274.2mm
What spokes are you using? If you are using cx ray or similar I'd knock 2mm off the DS length - 1mm for stretch and 1mm for the crossing. I used spocalc on a 24h 2x both sides build recently and I ran out of nipple threads using a spoke 0.8mm shorter than spocalc. I theorize that since cx rays are thin bladed, they take a more linear path to the rim than a 2mm round spoke.
Also I have to ask, for your flange diameter, you are measuring the holes center to center, not the overall flange itself, right?
What spokes are you using? If you are using cx ray or similar I'd knock 2mm off the DS length - 1mm for stretch and 1mm for the crossing. I used spocalc on a 24h 2x both sides build recently and I ran out of nipple threads using a spoke 0.8mm shorter than spocalc. I theorize that since cx rays are thin bladed, they take a more linear path to the rim than a 2mm round spoke.
Also I have to ask, for your flange diameter, you are measuring the holes center to center, not the overall flange itself, right?
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The spoke length calculation is more complicated than that.
Look at ergot to post and below. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=113826
Look at ergot to post and below. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=113826
bm0p700f wrote:The spoke length calculation is more complicated than that.
Look at ergot to post and below. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=113826
Yes i have seed that post, but to use the calculator with an option for triplet lacing was easier, maybe i will try the calcul of ergot to confirm my lenght.
For the holes diameter, i can get the spec on american classic website but, i have also check these myself. And yes that's from center of the holes, i also corrected the NDS diameter (supposed to be 36mm), but in reality i get 35mm.
grouk wrote:These will be my first wheels built from scratch, already changed rims and spokes but complete wheels will be the first.
The wheels will be for my cyclocross bike.
i will use a 50mm rings with disc brakes but i have some doubts
the rims have 20mm inner rim width, will be enough for tubs?
24/28 be good enough? i weight 77kg
2cross or 3cross?
what spokes do you recommended best value weight cost? I have thought of sapim race
20mm would be ok for road tubulars, dunno about CX tubulars.
24h might not be enough for the front due to disc brake forces.
I like 3x on the DS for 28h. 2x is ok too.
Lasers are lighter but are as strong as CX-rays. You need to hold them to keep them from twisting. Smooth jaw pliers can work. I use a twist-resist tool.
bm0p700f wrote:Also that bit about cx rays taking a more linear path to the rim is well rubbish. I round the same way I do for round spokes. I don't run out of threads.
It's just a theory! I measured every dimension twice and still ran out of threads. I'll go back to playing in the sandbox stacking my own turds.
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Again appologies for being a bit harsh I had a day of being a bit too blunt. CX-rays do stretch so ounding down by 1mm is advisable you can go down by up to two. rounding up will lead you to run out of threads.
Have you encountered this?
I have laced a 3 cross 32h wheel. There are no mistakes in the lacing pattern. I measured the ERD using my usual method and it was the same as the manufacturers. Likewise the hubs. Used the spoke length by rounding down slightly. I have set the nipples using a Cyclus drill bit. All but 3 or 4 spokes feel like they have the beginning of tension. The 3 or 4 others, in random places on the rim, are super loose. I backed them all off and reset but the same spokes remain loose.
I measured all spokes before using and they were the same. They are all set the same depth but I get these loose spokes.
I had a similar wheel a few builds ago. I respoked with 2mm spokes shorter and it built fine. Is this my problem and has anyone else experienced this? I don't understand what causes this given I have measured everything and the measurements match the manufacturers.
I have laced a 3 cross 32h wheel. There are no mistakes in the lacing pattern. I measured the ERD using my usual method and it was the same as the manufacturers. Likewise the hubs. Used the spoke length by rounding down slightly. I have set the nipples using a Cyclus drill bit. All but 3 or 4 spokes feel like they have the beginning of tension. The 3 or 4 others, in random places on the rim, are super loose. I backed them all off and reset but the same spokes remain loose.
I measured all spokes before using and they were the same. They are all set the same depth but I get these loose spokes.
I had a similar wheel a few builds ago. I respoked with 2mm spokes shorter and it built fine. Is this my problem and has anyone else experienced this? I don't understand what causes this given I have measured everything and the measurements match the manufacturers.
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Are there any suggestions for ceramic brake pads for the Ryde CSS?
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