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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:33 pm 
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HED Belgium FTW loving mine!


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Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:33 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:17 pm 
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Sorry to post this but with 299 pages I can't trawl the whole thread. I'm looking to start building my own wheels and was thinking a book would help get me started. There seem to be several - which one(s) should I consider to give me a solid grounding?

I understand the basic principles involved but the fancy stuff - deciding on rear D/S & NDS spoking patterns (and effect on spoke tension) etc is beyond me at present.

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
That's part of the basic principles of wheel construction.

I recommend Jobst Brandt's book. Its easy to read and talks about all the basic factors in choosing lacing patterns etc.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:24 pm 
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I recommend Roger Musson's book.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 7:30 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
@Svetty- Take a look at http://www.WheelBuilder.Org. Should have a plethora of information for you.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:44 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:57 am
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Orfitinho wrote:
I recommend Roger Musson's book.


^^^ This for general wheel building practices and Jobst's book for supplementary theories and principles.

Also Wheel Fanatyk is definitely worth a visit: http://www.wheelfanatyk.com/wheelbuilding-library/


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 Post subject: Wheel options
PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2008 8:51 pm
Posts: 29
190 lbs. Archetype rims and CX-RAY spokes. Should I go with 28/32 or 24/28? If 24/28, radially lacing in the front or stick with two cross.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 2:58 pm 
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Location: Mississippi
24/28, radial front would suit you fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
24 front radial is fine so is 2 cross which do like the look of most. 28 spoke rear is fine too 2x or 3x.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 8:59 am 
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Hi all,

Looking at building my first carbon wheel set. I've built several alloy wheels and feel quite comfortable doing so, main config has been xr270 front 24 2x and rear 28 2x DT comps. I use these wheels for crits and general riding mainly flat or undulating terrain. I weigh 82kg/ 183lbs and have had no issues with my builds and build them as per Roger Musson's approach. I'm wanting to try carbon clinchers out either 38 or 50 in the wide shape from China. I'm wondering if I can get away with building with DT comps front 20 radial and rear 24 2x with novatec hubs, these will be budget wheels. Also when finishing off the wheel bringing it to final tension is it a must to use a spoke tension gauge? As the process I used previously was by sound and by tensioning and stressing the wheel until it lost it's trueness then back off 1/2 a turn. Concerned that carbon rims can hold a higher tension and don't want to risk pulling a spoke through.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Rich

Sent from my XT905 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:31 am 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
You will get away with Laser spokes same diameter at the elbow so same fatigue resistance. The rims are more than stiff enough for Laser's.

Carbon rims will take 1200N mostly, some more. I would not even try to tension a alloy rim to it limit. 1200N unless there is a max tension set by the manufacturer which is less. More tension serves no purpose. The only rim I have had not settle down at 1200N is the Velocity A23 OC that seems to max out at 1100N and the DT Swiss RR415 can not take more than 1100N without risk of the rim cracking down the line. Front wheels do not need as much tension either 1000N is enough. 1200N is for the DS rear.

I use a spoke tension gauge to set the final tension and to ensure it is even to with in +/-5% Tone may work but I am tone deaf and it does not tell me the tension I am at.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:11 am 
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If you don't have a spoke tension gauge, you might want to consider the iPhone app (if you have one of those), as that uses the frequency but calculates tension (using length of spoke). I use a Park tension gauge (and don't have an iPhone), but these aren't especially accurate or precise (approx +/-10% based on comparing results from 4 meters owned by friends).

I am also about to build a carbon wheelset for the first time. Similar build, using LB U45 rims with Novatec hubs and CX Ray spokes. The rim mfr will typically list the tensions -- both max and recommended. My Farsports wheels were built with tensions of 90kgf front and 135kgf rear.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 12:02 am 
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pushstart wrote:
If you don't have a spoke tension gauge, you might want to consider the iPhone app (if you have one of those), as that uses the frequency but calculates tension (using length of spoke). I use a Park tension gauge (and don't have an iPhone), but these aren't especially accurate or precise (approx +/-10% based on comparing results from 4 meters owned by friends).

I am also about to build a carbon wheelset for the first time. Similar build, using LB U45 rims with Novatec hubs and CX Ray spokes. The rim mfr will typically list the tensions -- both max and recommended. My Farsports wheels were built with tensions of 90kgf front and 135kgf rear.


Noticed that there is a spoke tension app for android. So will try that out on an existing set of wheels.

I'm looking at a similar build to what you have quoted, I'd be interested to see how you go.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:17 pm
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Location: Denmark
I would like to recommend the book The Art Of Wheel Building if it has´nt been mentioned before, it´s written by Gerd Schraner and can be found at DT Swiss homepage. I was lucky to attend a course he held in Germany in the late 90ties. I´we been using his technique for almost 15 years now as a mechanic.


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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 6:23 pm 
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synthesis wrote:
I would like to recommend the book The Art Of Wheel Building if it has´nt been mentioned before, it´s written by Gerd Schraner and can be found at DT Swiss homepage. I was lucky to attend a course he held in Germany in the late 90ties. I´we been using his technique for almost 15 years now as a mechanic.


+1 on that recommendation

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