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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 4479
Location: Canada
Good job on the first pair. It will get easier each time.

If you're running the 25s front and rear, you can let the pressures off a fair bit without the risk of pinch-flatting. What are you running?


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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:58 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 10:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:02 am
Posts: 12
Location: Manchester, UK
I've settled on 8 bar/116 psi rear and 7 bar/101 psi front in the dry.

In the wet more like 100 psi rear, 90 psi front.

And all was well. Perhaps higher than I could get away with but feeling fine.

Then at the weeked I did RideLondon. Torrential rain. Wind. Genuinely awful conditions. Biblically bad. And through it all I was going great. Bike felt great, I felt strong.

Then a rear puncture at 60 miles. Sealant didn't work. Looked like a problem around the valve area. OK...first change in the field. Off came the old tub, on went s preglued spare. Went like a dream.

Ten miles later the spare goes. I tried to resuscitate it and limped on to about 75 miles but had to call it.

Ended up doing about 6 miles on a flat. Proves you can if you have to.

Although I was upset about it lots of people had the same problem - there were plenty of clincher double punctures too.

Lesson:
Choose the right spare. If it's there to get you home then it has to get you home.

So what now? Thinking remaining Conti off...Veloflexs on.I must be mad.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 10:57 pm 
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Location: Canada
Sounds like a great event. Pity about the weather, though.

I am interested in the valve failure. If the tire is glued correctly so that the valve is in straight (therefore, no shearing force where the valve meets the rim bed) those types of failures are quire rare. The Conti valves are pretty durable, too. Can you post a pic of what the failure looks like?

On the pressures, what do you weigh-in at? For such large-volume tires, you can often get away with lower pressures without pinch-flatting. What rims are you running?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:30 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:02 am
Posts: 12
Location: Manchester, UK
Alas I had to dump the tyre.

Weight: 73kg, plus the bike and kit about 83kg.

Rims: Gigantex 50mm carbon, built by Wheelsmiths.

The valve was straight I think...but I wonder whether...well lots of things. Perhaps I damaged or putting on the extension?

I thought it was somewhere around the valve from looking at the sealant leakage when I took it off...but it was very wet and it could have leaked from somewhere else.

So all a bit inconclusive really. However I shall be gentler with the valves next time.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:40 pm
Posts: 136
timjsharpe wrote:

So what now? Thinking remaining Conti off...Veloflexs on.I must be mad.


I ran Veloflex carbons on Sunday. No punctures. Go for the veloflex, it makes sense! :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:02 am
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Location: Manchester, UK
dha wrote:
timjsharpe wrote:

So what now? Thinking remaining Conti off...Veloflexs on.I must be mad.


I ran Veloflex carbons on Sunday. No punctures. Go for the veloflex, it makes sense! :wink:


Great stuff! My problems may have been newbie incompetence during installation.

Dare I ask... did you age them or whack them straight on?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:15 pm 
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They were put straight on, I don't think they were any more than 6 months old when I recieved them. But to be totally honest I can't remember the exact manufacture date compared to when they were fitted.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:02 am
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Location: Manchester, UK
I'm quite liking the look and feel of the 25mm tyres so I'll go for Arenbergs I think. I shall age them on the bike and use the Conti as the spare.

FWIW I've been using the Conti Carbon glue and the change 'in the field' was great but I was not convinced that the preglued spare took to the remaining rim glue too well. If anything the rim was left too clean - the rum glue seemed to come off with the tyre.

I'll be switching to Vittoria Mastic 1.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 9:15 pm 
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I have some Arenbergs sat in a wardrobe at home waiting for the carbons to run out. Just fancy a little more comfort. Glad to hear a roadside change wasn't too painful as it's something I have sort of feared.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:40 pm
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Just pulled some glass and flint from the Carbons following Sundays 'wet' adventure.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:39 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:02 am
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Location: Manchester, UK
Goodness. Perhaps it wasn't the valve on the Conti then!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 86
Question for the experts regarding the latest thinking on cyclocross tire gluing methods. In the past I have used the Belgian method (glue and tape), but I am wondering if the tape is necessary any longer.

Now, we have more wide rims. Was the tape designed to build up the center channel of a narrower rim so that a wider tire (eg 32) had better contact between rim and tire? If so, do wheels like the zipp 303 firecrest obviate the need for that layer of tape?

I also have a set of the HED stinger disc.....currently has glue and tape but I am thinking of pulling the tire on that set for this season, so I am wondering if I should just use glue (mastik 1).

Glue only is certainly easier, but ultimately I care about speed and safety.

Thank you!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
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Location: Canada
Typically, I say 'to each, his own', but in this case, not a chance.

The 'new' rims are designed primarily for road uses are have been 'adopted' for 'cross use. The typical tire sizes are 22-25mm. For 'cross, the typical tire is 32-33mm (there are 30mm tires, but when was the lat time you ran a 30mm?). Accordingly, I would still recommend using the 'traditional' gluing method.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 86
Will do, Geoff. Thank you!

When installing a cross tire, do you partially inflate it? Just got a few FMBs in today and put them on rims to relax a bit. This time, I found it nearly impossible to put them on the rim while flat and a bit easier inflated. Perhaps this was because the uninflected tire had no curvature and without glue there is nothing to grab onto.

The partially inflate tire was a bit easier to push over the rim, but with glue I'm not so sure.

Thanks! Installing Cross tires can give me fits, but -- like child birth I presume -- I forget about the pain of installation a few minutes after it is over. The upside is that it makes road tire installation seem much easier for me.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:38 pm 
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Location: Canada
'Cross tires are serious business. Because you are only running around 20-25 psi in them, they need to be well-fitted and well-glued. Accordingly, they are tight to begin with. To compound the problem, they are also really hard to stretch, as they have a big, 32mm casing.

Like all true, hand-made, large-volume tires, they will be pretty tough to mount on an unglued rim. You may have to really fight to get them on to the rim the first time. Once you have them on, throw some pressure into the tire and they will stretch-out on their own in a few days. When it comes time to mount them, they will be just fine.

Kudos to you for getting this done now, so your wheels will be ready at the start of the season. I can't even count the number of times I have gotten a panicked call from a friend trying to do this the night before the first race. :roll:


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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:38 pm 


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