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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:28 am
Posts: 118
Location: Berkeley, CA
On the topic of brushes, and cleaning them out versus tossing them in the bin, I've been using a silicon glue brush for the last year or so. The acid brush is probably a little nicer to work with, but with the silicon brush you just peel the dried glue out the next day and the brush is as good as new. I bought two, but have only ended up using one of them. It is great never having to wonder if I have a fresh brush on hand.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 4479
Location: Canada
Hmmmm. That's an interesting idea.


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Posted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:16 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 10:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:22 am
Posts: 9
I thought I'd post an update on my gluing of tubulars since the last time... The first time was a bit of a disaster, using the conti glue to glue vittoria sc tubs. The problem was that despite putting 2 layers on both rim and tub (using 1 whole tube of glue for just 1 wheel!), the basetape refused to stick to the rim on quite a few areas. So, restarted again, cleaned rim and tub as best as possible. This time, I bought vittoria mastik 1.. and oh, what a difference this is... The glue does not dry as fast as conti's, and putting 1 layer on tub and 2 layers on rim as per instructions from vittoria. The result was much much better. Since the glue seems "thicker" and easier to spread around to the rim edge. But because the glue does not dry so fast, when the tub is mounted on the rim, it is possible to get contact between tyre and rim and still centre the tubular. The result feels much better.

However, there is still about 1-2cm on one side where the tub is not in contact at the very edge... the void goes in about 1mm, after which proper glue contact can be seen there... I might try to fill that void with glue, do you think that will work?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:32 am 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5793
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Glad to see it went better this time.

Quote:
the void goes in about 1mm, after which proper glue contact can be seen there... I might try to fill that void with glue, do you think that will work?


It can be done. Just keep in mind that rim cement is a contact type of glue so both surfaces need to be covered with cement. It needs exposure to air to cure so do not put both surfaces in direct contact with each other straight away.
After application let it all dry for about half an hour then firmly push both surfaces together.
Inflate the tyre slightly, 2 a 3 bar and let it sit for a day or so.
Then fully inflate and check the bond.

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 4479
Location: Canada
While Frank is responding to the specific question, it also sounds like your glue job would be quite rideable as-is. I know we all want perfection, but...


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:17 pm
Posts: 102
And today almost no one knows what a tubular tire is and have never ever seen one in the flesh???

Maybe noobs ...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:22 am
Posts: 9
My adventure with gluing tubulars continue. I have done the front wheel and seems ok.. I will bring it out for a ride very soon.. but in the meantime, I have now switched my attention to the rear wheel. What I have noticed (also a slight issue with front wheel, but not as bad) about the vittoria sc tubs is that the basetape around the valve "bulges" out quite a bit. This causes problems with my planet-x rims.. as the valve hole is not big enough to accommodate the basetape protrusion around the valve.. this in turn causes a gap between tyre and rim where the valve is and also surrounding regions.. and I suspect it will take quite a lot of glue to fill that gap... so, I am thinking, I can either enlarge the valve hole on the rim.. but concerned that this may compromise the rim... or I can maybe trim the basetape around the valve.. is this even possible?! I am afraid that touching the basetape will result in me puncturing the underlying latex tube inside...

Cheers for any advice..


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:13 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5793
Location: Belgium
Hi,

It's a typical problem with Vittoria tubs and some rims (actually quite a lot of rims).
The best way to tackle this is to gently peel the overlapping strips of base tape away at the valve area and cut the excess off.
Try not to pull the base tape by the edges as it tends to "feather" out as it stretches. Obviously that doesn't matter for the parts you'll be removing but for the ends you'll be gluing back to the casing.
Depending on the rim's shape this should at least reduce the bulge significantly.

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:22 am
Posts: 9
Thanks fdegrove :) I have now glued the rear wheel's tub. I took a knife and very carefully removed layers on the basetape around the valve, the bits which bulges out... the result was that it seats much better, still not perfect, a bigger valve hole or less thick seam would be ideal.. but it will do... put a generous amount of glue on the valve area and made sure that I pushed down on the valve area after final inflation. The resulting glue job seems better than the front wheel's, where I didn't trim the valve's surrounding basetape.. nevermind, all a learning process. But thanks for the help! :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:41 pm
Posts: 597
Had the first few runs on my Wilier donned with PX 50mm tubs this week, what a joy - I followed all the sound advice on this and similar threads and have to say I found the whole glueing and mounting experience bizarrely therapeutic. I say to anyone who is thinking about trying tubs for the first time, go for it. Take your time as I did and you won't look back. The ride even with Conti sprinters and deep section rims is exceptional. I am already thinking how I can justify a set of record hub'd 32x tub wheels with paves for next winter!!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:53 pm
Posts: 16
I've spent the last two weeks of my life totally absorbed with this thread in preparation for trialling a set of Conti Sprinter gatorskin tubulars on a custom built miche Primato / Ambrosio Nemesis wheelset on my commuting bike. To date I've only ridden tubs on my "good" race wheels and even then only recently was brave enough to start riding them to/from my local crits....with a can of Vittoria PitStop and mounted using tufo tape (sorry Frank).

This has been an entertaining read, thanks to Frank, Geoff and countless others. BTW I must say I think I'll be a frankist rather than a geoffist come mounting time.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5793
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Thanks guys. I'm sure Geoff will be more than happy too. :beerchug:

From Belgium with love, ;)

Frank

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 187
Location: eNZed
Tubs rule! :up:

I’ve calculated that my per tub average is 7,000km, based on 3 sets (4x Sprinter, 2x Evo CX). The 2x hardly-used but punctured Evo CX are in the cupboard, awaiting the demise of the Contis currently in use; Stans will be added and they should be good to go. I’ve done tubular repairs in the past, but Stans is my reason for why bother?

What I’m using: Stans because all tubs in current use have punctures, apply Vittoria glue from a can with brush (no need to throw it out as new glue softens the brush sufficiently), Lezyne Matrix lever to remove tub, Kinlin alloy rims.

Sprinters wear well, and Contis suck in the wet (I have too many scars!). I'm disappointed that I've yet to ride any of those to the canvass: they were chucked out because cuts were too big for Stans.

To try: 25mm Gatorskin (why don't they make 25mm Sprinter?), custom potion of Slime and Stans.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 6:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 4479
Location: Canada
If you like the Contis, try the 25mm Competition 'Black Chilli' tires. They are quite good.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:07 am 
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Formerly known as wassertreter

Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:08 am
Posts: 2008
Location: Pedal Square
shimmeD wrote:
TSprinters wear well, and Contis suck in the wet (I have too many scars!).

Interesting you say that, most tests and reviews seem to have them perform in the wet.

shimmeD wrote:
To try: 25mm Gatorskin (why don't they make 25mm Sprinter?), custom potion of Slime and Stans.

Used to think the same, but Comps have come down by like a third in price over the last year. Other brands like Veloflex have come down too a bit, BTW, although I've not been following them so closely. Are only we in EU getting those discounts?

Looking forward to glue some 25mm Comps and Challenge P-R for this spring.

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Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX


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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:07 am 


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