Is the problem only on the drive-side, or worse on the drive-side than the non-drive-side? If so, it would give some credence to thisisatest's theory applying in this case.

Well, it wouldn't explain the failure of the glue job. I also give him the benefit of the doubt that he knows basic bike maintenance.

Most chain lubes have a solvent carrier. It is entirely possible, likely even, that the solvent in the chain lube would break down tubular glue. So it remains a possible explanation.

Why didn't I think of the chain lube? That's probably why it's all black and only on the rear wheel. So, does this lube cause the glue to break down or lose adhesive properties?

But it's on the NDS too...

The fling-off goes everywhere.
I'm not saying it is definitely the issue. Again, it is still a possibility. Who knows? it could be solar flares, the Mayans, magic...

I don't think you could get that result merely by being negligent. You'd have to be deliberately trying to put chain lube on the rim in order to dissolve the glue to that extent.

In my case the glue don`t loose it`s adhesive properties.and I use more rear brake cause i ride on dirt too.

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cycling,a great individual sport,were you can't reach anything,whithout group effort.

You can have some chain lube hit your rear rim all the time but it typically doesn't change the color of (or affect the adhesion of) Mastik One. I've seen chain lube on rear rims many times without adverse issues.

It's possible you simply had dirt attach to the rear rim because of a little lube there, but I still think that's improbable.

You say you ride dirt roads. So you also ride irregularities quite a bit, right? Rocks, lumps, etc.? I rather suspect you are twisting the glue joint loose intermittently, it reseals, but captures a little dirt. That glue joint does separate and rejoin quite a bit, and it can happen predominantly on the rear wheel -- it happens all the time on the track where riders are turning or sprinting on banking and the force of the banking is pulling the glue joint loose, it happens on the edge of a cobble where rider weight plus accelerations focus too much power on a short section of gluing. I've seen it happen with powerful road sprinters. And it happens more with lower tire pressures because it's easier to pull the tire loose. When this happens, it's quite possible that you gradually add dirt to the exposed glue -- it'll be more on the edges than in the center, but if the dirt does show up more than just exclusively on the exposed outside surfaces of the glue joint, that's just what I'd expect. It will happen somewhat as you go into the depths of the tire bed, and be largely absent by the time you get to the center. Is that what you had?

This problem gets exacerbated by a couple things as well. First, sometimes your Mastik One gets too old and separates (and they had a bad run for a year or two that separated prematurely). At that point it doesn't glue properly and this kind of transient separation occurs much more rapidly. Second, it's that time of year when your wheels might be close to heaters or in a dry environment; the glue can dry out and allow this kind of thing to happen much more. I find these both happen from time to time; they're unpredictable, but are indications that you may need to remove tires, clean, and remount tires with new rim cement. And they definitely can crud up a glue job, and yes, they tend to do so more on the rear simply because the rear tire, for various reasons, gets pulled loose more.

I wouldn't blame chain lube.

It migth be that.In my case it turn into small dark soft balls in the side of cotton tape,and they don`t feel have any dirt on it.
problably I`ll clean the rim and re-glue it.later I let know how it turn.

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cycling,a great individual sport,were you can't reach anything,whithout group effort.

On the new wide rims, 27mm, glueing 23mm tubs. Do I have to get glue on the top of the rim? Not the sides, but the top where it would touch the floor is I set it standing up.

It doesn't seem my tire will really contact that part.

Second, I've been reading conflicting reports. I'm sure I'll get glue on the outside of the carbon, brake track etc.. Safe to use good off?

No, that is not part of the gluing surface. Before gluing the tire, check how the profile of the basetape fits your rim. That will give you a really good guide of the gluing surface. Please also be careful of 23mm tires with some of the deep rim beds. They can be more prone to pinch-flats. On the rear, I recommend 25mm tires for those types of rims.

has anyone used both the 22 and the 23 mm veloflex carbon and can make a comparison?

tubieguru....?

Hi,

How to compare a 1 mm tyre width difference?
I've used both and the only sound advice I can give is to match tyre width so it's close to or slightly exceeds the width of the rim bed.

Other than that I think the exercise of Veloflex going for 23mm iso their traditional 22mm is a pretty pointless one.
All in all I can't say I notice any difference so pick the one that suits the width of your rim best. Being on Campa Bora or Hyperons most of the time I run Extreme/Sprinter up front and/or Carbon/Criterium or Roubaix/Arenberg on the rear.

On Bora/Hyperon and on a mere speed/weight basis, the Record/front Servizio Corse/rear combo is still their fastest offering IME.

Ciao,

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Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

I've used both and for me I defintely prefer the 23's as a minimum. The 24mm Roubaixs are nice too.

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My Colnago C59
My Special Colnago EPQ