Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

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sungod
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by sungod

sounds like a good first glueing :)

at 128lbs you should be able to go lower than 90/95

imho the 23mm g+ sidewalls have crazy talk on them, 8-12 bar! unless the road is smoooooth that's just boneshaking, especially as they're not that supple, i'm 79kg and 6-ish is ok

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RoadBikeStudio
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by RoadBikeStudio

I will have to dedicate a day off to read this thread...
Glueing is pretty straight forward. Removing old glue from carbon rim always gave me most trouble.

sungod
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by sungod

schwalbe glue remover works well to remove the bulk of it

then white spirit to remove the final traces, finally degrease with something like ipa

Mep
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by Mep

First time gluing tubulars and in need of some advice. I just did my 2nd layer on a new carbon rim, but the glue doesn't seem very tacky. In fact I can tap the glued area with my finger and not feel any stickiness. Is this normal? If it is not, what would you suggest doing at this point?

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Kayrehn
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by Kayrehn

Should be ok - 1) pressure from inflation will make the adhesive work 2) heat from riding the wheels will meet the glue a bit and bond things together.

Anyway, I've always followed Vittoria's gluing instructions and Danish the job in an hour for both wheels. Does other tubular glue recommend leaving layers to cure overnight?

sungod
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by sungod

Mep wrote:First time gluing tubulars and in need of some advice. I just did my 2nd layer on a new carbon rim, but the glue doesn't seem very tacky. In fact I can tap the glued area with my finger and not feel any stickiness. Is this normal? If it is not, what would you suggest doing at this point?


as above, it's fine

you're using the multi-layer method so you want the first layers to be dry, but when you actually mount the tub it'll be onto the final layer while still fresh, you'll then have a few minutes to get it centered before the bond gets too strong to shift it without a lot of effort

Mep
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by Mep

Kayrehn wrote:Should be ok - 1) pressure from inflation will make the adhesive work 2) heat from riding the wheels will meet the glue a bit and bond things together.

Anyway, I've always followed Vittoria's gluing instructions and Danish the job in an hour for both wheels. Does other tubular glue recommend leaving layers to cure overnight?

I'm using Vittoria mastik one and leaving to dry 24h for each layer. It does seem long though. The glue is dry within an hour (it's summer here). Does it look like I'm using enough glue?

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dj97223
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by dj97223

Yes, it does. Thin coats is the key. You don't want too much glue. The glue will not be tacky to the touch when dry.

Assuming you have the same coverage -- i.e., no gaps -- on the entire rim bed, and have applied one or 2 coats to the base tape of a stretched tire, you are ready for the last thin coat on the rim. After applying that last coat, wait maybe a few minutes (glue at least somewhat tacky still) before mounting the tire.
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Geoff
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by Geoff

One of the 'tricks' of gluing tubulars is that you need to be patient. The natural inclination will be to touch the glue, note that it 'seems' dry, then throwing another layer down fast. The problem is, the first layer is not actually cured yet. That will build-in weaknesses in your glue job. Maybe you'll be ok, but maybe not. It is better to be safe than quick, in my opinion.

With respect to the application of the 'final' layer, I prefer to put that down on the basetape, as opposed to the rim bed. I find that allows more 'adjustability' to get the tire straight before the glue sets-up.

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dj97223
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by dj97223

Geoff,

I agree re drying/curing. I didn't mean to suggest that if the glue feels dry, it has cured. I believe the poster said he had waited 24 hours between coats.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Kayrehn wrote:Anyway, I've always followed Vittoria's gluing instructions and Danish the job in an hour for both wheels. Does other tubular glue recommend leaving layers to cure overnight?

Not sure which gluing instructions from Vittoria you are using, but here's the instructions on the back of a box of tubes of Mastik One.... 1) Basically, one thin coat on rim and base tape then set aside for a day. 2) A final coat on rim only, let dry 3-5 minutes, then mount the tire and center it. 3) Pump it up and let it reach full strength and in another 24 hours or so good to go. This is pretty much how I do it with one exception, if I'm using a Conti Tubular with an exra absorbent cotton base tape, I'll give the tape two coats of glue, but pretty much one right after the other, then set it aside as normal for mounting the next day. Oh, and if it's a conti tube, pre-stretch it for about a year first :lol: . Exaggeration of course, sort of.
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Geoff
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by Geoff

@dj97223, yeah, sorry. I did not mean to imply that is what you were saying. I was sort of responding generally to the recent thread posts.

@Calnago, good point. I have actually never read the instructions that come with Mastik 1 :oops: . All of my experience is based upon how I was taught to glue tires in the 'old days' and how I have done it for the many decades since with no problems. I use a lot more layers of glue than Vittoria says, that's for sure.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Well, I used to use three layers on the rim, two on the base tape. Then I read the instructions and gave it a go. The bond seemed every bit as strong and I would say stronger than with more layers. When you think about it, it's "contact" cement. It bonds on contact. That final thin layer just before bonding the two just helps to "activate" the two surfaces a bit I think, along with the contact pressure from inflating. Adding more layers just creates a thicker bed of glue in between the two surfaces being bonded and if it gets really hot I would imagine that extra glue could become a gooey mess, and even more so than if less glue was present. I always remove old glue before gluing new tires as well. Schwalbe Glue Remover is pretty good for that but tough to get in North America.
Oh, and the instructions from Vittoria only seem to be on the box like I pictured. They are not on the individual tubes, which seems kinda dumb.
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sanrensho
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by sanrensho

How crucial is the centering of the mounted tire? (Vittoria Corsa CXIII on a Farsports 20.5mm wide rim)

First time mounting a tubular and I spent way too much time trying to muscle the last part of the tire onto the rim, starting over several times. I tried centering once I did get the tire on, but by then the glue had set up. Tire is now inflated and drying.

The tread is visibly not centered and there is extra basetape showing in sections (about a millimeter extra). No major hops when the inflated tire is spun on a truing stand.

Aside from not looking straight, should I just ride it?

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dj97223
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by dj97223

Getting it perfectly straight is nearly impossible, but if the tread is significantly crooked/out of line you may want to start over. Don't pay much attention to the amount of base tape showing -- base tape is not always applied evenly.

If you start over, make sure you remove the tire slowly and carefully. Use your thumbs to move a section of the tire back and forth enough to lift it and get a screwdriver completely underneath. Then slowly work/roll the screwdriver around the rim as you lift each small section. Lift up, don't pull to the side.

Putting the tire on the second time should be easier because it is now stretched, and you will be twice as experienced.
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