Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

[Zoro]

What Glue?
So I just bought some very nice climbing wheels for my kid. http://www.starbike.com/en/ax-lightness-ultra-road-25-tubular/

I have some very nice shoes going on these, but basically a flat means the ride is over. Max sppeds are in the 20K range. These are up hill wheels. And in many cases there may not be riding down.
I am not looking for anything but the best/lowest Crr.

Soyo is my choice so far. Anything else?

[Geoff]

Mastik 1 is still the best choice.

[Zoro]

I buy that by the can. I had wanted something hard. Maybe just to try something different. Seems like I should just use the same stuff.

Lately (last 4 years or so) I've been gluing heavily on edges and leaving the centre free of glue - on 25mm wide rims. That has held very well. I also makes removal easier. Once I break the seal, the tyre comes off and base tape stays on. That seal however is pretty tough to break.

[audiophilitis]

I buy that by the can. I had wanted something hard. Maybe just to try something different. Seems like I should just use the same stuff.

Lately (last 4 years or so) I've been gluing heavily on edges and leaving the centre free of glue - on 25mm wide rims. That has held very well. I also makes removal easier. Once I break the seal, the tyre comes off and base tape stays on. That seal however is pretty tough to break.

I usually leave a 2 inch area directly across the valve without glue for ease of tire removal.

[shimmeD]

I read an article (could be back page of Bicycling Australia a few years ago) about using shellac for track tubulars. Any way I searched it and found this http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling ... lar-s.html. It's a destructive process to remove once installed though, if you want to go that way.

Any old trackie who can chime in on this age-old method?

More searching got me here http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling ... track.html
Bicycle Mechanics by Steve Snowling, is the book to read.

[Zoro]

I usually leave a 2 inch area directly across the valve without glue for ease of tire removal.

Hmm. I hate valves moving. I glue heaviest there. And put plastic tape over the valve.

[Zoro]

I read an article (could be back page of Bicycling Australia a few years ago) about using shellac for track tubulars. Any way I searched it and found this http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling ... lar-s.html. It's a destructive process to remove once installed though, if you want to go that way.

Any old trackie who can chime in on this age-old method?

More searching got me here http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling ... track.html
Bicycle Mechanics by Steve Snowling, is the book to read.

I'm just going Mastic 1.

In a WW note.
The 50mmX25mm 1110g set are getting new FMB 25mm silks made with record tread (custom build). I really like the Vittoria Speed I have mounted - not glued - on there now.

The Vittoria Speed G+ will go on an in-the-mail Ax-25 800g setup I'm hoping for a ready to ride set near 1400g (cassette, skewers, glue, tyres - front and rear) . I'll post pictures when ready.

[Geoff]

I think a lot of trackies still use shellac. Still, Vittoria Mastic 1 is my favourite, even for the track.

[audiophilitis]

I usually leave a 2 inch area directly across the valve without glue for ease of tire removal.

Hmm. I hate valves moving. I glue heaviest there. And put plastic tape over the valve.

I'm referring to the opposite side of the valve...I hate loose valves as well. I put some teflon tape around the area of the valve that makes contact with the rim to alleviate the issue.

[11.4]

I don't think any track riders use shellac any longer. Stayers were the last to keep with it, because you'd glue up the tire onto the rim and then wrap silk strips around both the tire and the rim, spirally between the spokes, and then coat those wraps with shellac as well (all to ensure that you absolutely wouldn't lose a tire if it flatted). That was some years ago.

Shellac is a strong glue but it doesn't repair, so if it cracks loose, your tire is unglued. Absolutely, never use it on the road. On the track, it's incompatible with many base tape coatings and doesn't work all that well with carbon rims. I glued hundreds of shellac jobs way back when and am glad I never have to do it again. You never knew if the shellac was going to go bad, it took forever to mix it up, and you had the cut the tire to get it off the rim. Almost everybody on the track simply uses Mastik 1 and it works fine for that.

[3Pio]

Ok, i start my first glueing and i just add the first layer of glue.

One wheel i made perfect layer, but i screw it up part of the second one.

Too much glue on the valve hole, so i tried to smooth it, and got dried. Then i had bad idea that maybe i can remove part of it with rubbing, but all i got is terrible glue. Then i worsten the thing even more trying to put another small layer and to smooth it out. This only one part of the wheel (valve part), the other part is ok.


Picture of the bad part:







This is the good part of the glue of the same wheel:



So should i just proceed with second layer and on bad part to add less glue, or this is that bad that i have to remove all glue and start from begining?

[sungod]

once you put the final layer on, mount the tyre and it's under pressure, you'll never know

for next rim coat(s) i'd skip the thick areas, just do one final complete coat on rim (or basetape if you prefer) when mounting

it's not aesthetically pleasing, but what counts is adhesion, as long as the bond is good i wouldn't worry

fwiw i haven't stripped the glue on mine for ages, in spite of 3-4 tyre changes, but the glue is still well bonded to the rim so i leave it, the accumulation of glue makes yours look near perfect!

[3Pio]

once you put the final layer on, mount the tyre and it's under pressure, you'll never know

it's not aesthetically pleasing, but what counts is adhesion, as long as the bond is good just ride

fwiw i haven't stripped the glue on mine for ages, in spite of 3-4 tyre changes, but the glue is still well bonded to the rim so i leave it, the accumulation of glue makes yours look near perfect!

I made problem when i tried to smooth the extra glue and make even worst with bumps. It's just this part of the rim, other is near perfect.

So as i understund, u saying to dont worry, to apply second layer of glue, and when it's all done, to try if adhesion is good. I guess i could test this, trying to pull the tire from the rim?

[sungod]

bumps will go soft when the final layer of glue is applied, then the pressure of the tyre will flatten them out

once tyre is mounted and aligned, inflate to maximum pressure then use body weight to roll it 360 degress, this will really force rim-tyre contact

then i'd leave it 24+ hours after that it's ready to ride

you can use thumb pressure to see if the edges are secure - not too hard, just 'test' pressure, not enough to remove a properly glued tyre - i don't think you will have a problem

[Geoff]

+1 I think you'll be fine. It's good that you know what the glue should look like, thought. Again, the preparation of the rim and letting the first layer cure properly is the key to a good glue job.