Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Hi Kaviator
Have I missed anything? Do you only use 1 layer of glue? And what about glue on the tubular? And why the water thing?
Just curious
Have I missed anything? Do you only use 1 layer of glue? And what about glue on the tubular? And why the water thing?
Just curious
1 layer of glue (i glued new tubulars)
Water is to prevent that the tubular will glued in place...when you inflitate at low pressure around 2bars it can moves and seat in place...high pressure push water out and glue stick to tubular
Water is to prevent that the tubular will glued in place...when you inflitate at low pressure around 2bars it can moves and seat in place...high pressure push water out and glue stick to tubular
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im a newbie to tubular. i just bought a set of carbon tubulars and i was planning to replace the tires. has any have experience using tufos extreme tape?
thank you!
thank you!
Well, prior to the Diablo Hillclimb I went to put 140 psi (9.7 bar) into my Tufo Sealant sealed Record Carbon, which had been quite happy at up to 60-100 psi (5-7 bar) sitting around, and it blew out the seal. I put some more goop in and pumped it up a bit, let it sit awhile, then tried to take it back up to 140 psi and it blew out again. It doesn't seem to handle high pressures well.
Another issue: it leaked out through the stem and clogged it, so I had to remove the core and the extender and clean out the dried latex there.
Am I missing something? It seems to have a 120 psi (8.3 bar) limit.
It ended up working out okay, though: given the strong headwinds on the climb I was probably better off with my more aerodynamic Reynolds MV-32 (w/ Veloflex Carbon) than the lighter Mt Washington (with the Veloflex Record).
Dan
Another issue: it leaked out through the stem and clogged it, so I had to remove the core and the extender and clean out the dried latex there.
Am I missing something? It seems to have a 120 psi (8.3 bar) limit.
It ended up working out okay, though: given the strong headwinds on the climb I was probably better off with my more aerodynamic Reynolds MV-32 (w/ Veloflex Carbon) than the lighter Mt Washington (with the Veloflex Record).
Dan
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chino069069 wrote:im a newbie to tubular. i just bought a set of carbon tubulars and i was planning to replace the tires. has any have experience using tufos extreme tape?
thank you!
Hi Chino,
That is a very good question. Congrats with your new wheelset. Many will say Tufo tape is very nice and you have to use it, Many others will tell you the opposite. If you use the search function (top right) and search in the road forum for tufo and tape you will find a lot of different opinions.
I personally am in the glue camp. It might look like it is very hard to do and it will look like tape will save you from a lot of hassle, but Glueing aint rocket science and it is a lot easier to remove then the tufo tape after you have worn out the tire. As a matter of fact. you do not necessarily need to remove the glue after you have worn out a tire, you can just smear glue over the old glue and mount the fresh tire. When using tape you need to remove the old tape (said to be quite hard to do and might even rip parts of carbon from the rim) before you retape the rim.
I hope I have been of some help
If you want to see 'meh' content of me and my bike you can follow my life in pictures here!'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'
Tufo tape is a bit slower.
Using Al Morrison's data, 0.00260 for Tufo tape versus 0.00239 for Mastik, an extra 8.8% rolling resistance. That's a cost of 2.06 J/kg/km. For example when climbing a 7% grade with total mass = 70 kg that's the equivalent of an extra 200 grams carried up the hill.
Yesterday I did the Mt Diablo Hillclimb (we climbed only half the hill in the time trial) which gained 590 meters in 10.0 km. I used Mastik. If I averaged 270 watts, and I weighed 55.9 kg, my bike was 5.5 kg and my equipment was maybe 1.5 kg = 62.9 kg, then that's 1295 J / 270 watts = approximately 4.8 seconds it would have cost me.
It would be interesting t o see what fraction of the riders that would have cost a place in the overall standings. I'm guessing around 25%.
Using Al Morrison's data, 0.00260 for Tufo tape versus 0.00239 for Mastik, an extra 8.8% rolling resistance. That's a cost of 2.06 J/kg/km. For example when climbing a 7% grade with total mass = 70 kg that's the equivalent of an extra 200 grams carried up the hill.
Yesterday I did the Mt Diablo Hillclimb (we climbed only half the hill in the time trial) which gained 590 meters in 10.0 km. I used Mastik. If I averaged 270 watts, and I weighed 55.9 kg, my bike was 5.5 kg and my equipment was maybe 1.5 kg = 62.9 kg, then that's 1295 J / 270 watts = approximately 4.8 seconds it would have cost me.
It would be interesting t o see what fraction of the riders that would have cost a place in the overall standings. I'm guessing around 25%.
Hi,
I think that for such high pressures you should put in more liquid than the 10 to 15ml I recommended.
Too little liquid sealant will create a layer of latex that's simply too thin to withstand such high pressures IMO.
Naturally the size of the puncture will have to be taken into account as well.
After a repair with liquid latex I try to go for a spin of a couple of kms. If it holds up for that distance it usually will for a regular ride as well.
Also, don't let any air out of a reapired tubular or the remaning liquid will tend to treat it as a leak and block the valve stem and core.
Ciao,
djconnel wrote:Well, prior to the Diablo Hillclimb I went to put 140 psi (9.7 bar) into my Tufo Sealant sealed Record Carbon, which had been quite happy at up to 60-100 psi (5-7 bar) sitting around, and it blew out the seal. I put some more goop in and pumped it up a bit, let it sit awhile, then tried to take it back up to 140 psi and it blew out again. It doesn't seem to handle high pressures well.
Another issue: it leaked out through the stem and clogged it, so I had to remove the core and the extender and clean out the dried latex there.
Am I missing something? It seems to have a 120 psi (8.3 bar) limit.
It ended up working out okay, though: given the strong headwinds on the climb I was probably better off with my more aerodynamic Reynolds MV-32 (w/ Veloflex Carbon) than the lighter Mt Washington (with the Veloflex Record).
Dan
I think that for such high pressures you should put in more liquid than the 10 to 15ml I recommended.
Too little liquid sealant will create a layer of latex that's simply too thin to withstand such high pressures IMO.
Naturally the size of the puncture will have to be taken into account as well.
After a repair with liquid latex I try to go for a spin of a couple of kms. If it holds up for that distance it usually will for a regular ride as well.
Also, don't let any air out of a reapired tubular or the remaning liquid will tend to treat it as a leak and block the valve stem and core.
Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
Thanks... I'm giving it another chance. I didn't do a pre-ride, as I'm a bit fearful of further damaging these "race-only" tires. Had I raced cat 3 (which I could have done), I'd have been 7 seconds from the win, but since I was in 35+ cat 1-2-3, I got spanked, finishing 5/6 well out of the money. So weenieism wasn't a factor, just fitness .
How much glue is actually needed for one thin coat on one tire and one carbon rim?
I recently used one 30 g tube of Mastik One professional to re-glue a Zipp Tangene tire on a Zipp 404 rim. I spread what I considered a thin coat on both the tire and the rim using a small brush, and the tube of glue was empty just when I was done. This was the first tire I've ever glued and I was quite happy with the result. The tire went back on straight, there was no mess and it appears to be securely glued to the rim.
My happiness only lasted until a friend told me I'm crazy to use that much glue! He said he glues four tires with one 30 g tube of Mastik One. Hence my question. Am I using too much glue?
Frode
I recently used one 30 g tube of Mastik One professional to re-glue a Zipp Tangene tire on a Zipp 404 rim. I spread what I considered a thin coat on both the tire and the rim using a small brush, and the tube of glue was empty just when I was done. This was the first tire I've ever glued and I was quite happy with the result. The tire went back on straight, there was no mess and it appears to be securely glued to the rim.
My happiness only lasted until a friend told me I'm crazy to use that much glue! He said he glues four tires with one 30 g tube of Mastik One. Hence my question. Am I using too much glue?
Frode
No. But you should have used 3 coats instead of one:
Too little glue increases rolling resistance. 4 tires for 1 tube is clearly too little by this criterion. Rolling resistance is way more important than the weight of the glue on any terrain.
Dan
Too little glue increases rolling resistance. 4 tires for 1 tube is clearly too little by this criterion. Rolling resistance is way more important than the weight of the glue on any terrain.
Dan
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The tubular thread...hello.
I've lost my last two tubulars (both fronts) to "flats" when the valve stem failed. Pretty annoying. Most recent one was a sweet Vittoria Evo Pave 24mm. Can be repaired with tube replacement, but quite annoying. Any preventive measures to keep this from happening? Aside from being gentle with the pump head, obviously.
I've lost my last two tubulars (both fronts) to "flats" when the valve stem failed. Pretty annoying. Most recent one was a sweet Vittoria Evo Pave 24mm. Can be repaired with tube replacement, but quite annoying. Any preventive measures to keep this from happening? Aside from being gentle with the pump head, obviously.
I have to modify my comment because I see now he said he "reglued" the tire. 3 coats is for a fresh tube. I agree 1 full tube per rim seems excessive if there's already a base coat from the previous tire.
Came across this article online. Some good photos.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/m1n1mum/se ... 304989062/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/m1n1mum/se ... 304989062/
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