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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 3910
Location: Canada
No idea, I was really hoping that you could help me there! What product do you use?


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:27 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5504
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Just liquid latex and lots of skill. :wink:

Ciao, ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:58 am
Posts: 10
i ended up sewing the rip together which was easier than expected, then copydex latex adhesive so glue it down. worked great


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:31 pm
Posts: 344
Sliced a two week old Mavic griplink today. Gutted, looks beyond repair. :(


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 12:26 am 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5504
Location: Belgium
Hi,

And you have no recourse whatsoever?

The griplink idea is not bad at all though, I like it and in fact have adopted years before it became a marketeer's find.. :o
Engineers should look more at how the weight distribution of a bike affects things. That would be a means to progress.

Sorry about those tyres, ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 3910
Location: Canada
I have never tried the Griplink, but have tried the Conti Attack/Force. The concept is interesting, but I could not discern any noticable difference.


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:16 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5504
Location: Belgium
Hi,

The idea was to shed a few grams by mounting a lighter tubular up front than rear.
What's important in this case is to use tyres with the same compounds and (to a much lesser extend) thread profile.

Mavic's take on it takes the concpet a step further by optimizing the compound specifically for front and rear wheel.

Not something you want to do by trial and error.... :lol: :mrgreen:

Ciao, ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1436
Location: Canada
fdegrove wrote:
Hi,

You can use an old latex inner tube as a donor. That's what most people do.
Remember to round the patches.

Ciao, ;)


I found a donor :)...

The tube is patched, and holds air fine (2 days now).
Now I'll go and buy a 200m roll of waxed dental floss, so I have enough for the stitching job :lol: .

And I also ordered barge cement to glue the (WHOLE!) basetape back on. I read earlier on the thread some member put parchment paper between the rim and tubular, I guess to prevent from sticking on the rim...
Is that needed ? Or I can just mount it on an old rim, and let dry as is ?

Louis :)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:43 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5504
Location: Belgium
Hi,

I guess the paper prevents the tub from sticking to the rim while at same time preventing the base tape from slipping sideways as you mount the tub on the spare rim.

I never used it but then I never pulled the entire base tape off either.. :mrgreen:

As for the dental floss....I'd go for the family pack if I were you. :lol:
200m? :shock:

Ciao, ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:23 am
Posts: 198
Location: Covington, WA
interesting thread. like the ad says: "What's in YOUR tire?"


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:48 am
Posts: 1
In light of a previous question the liquid latex solution readily available from art supply shops is called "masking fluid". You shouldn't receive any funny looks if you ask for it by that name, and it is available wherever you can buy artists paints. Here is one of many examples....http://www.winsornewton.com/products.as ... ductID=877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Nice thread

Regards,

Lewis Allen


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1436
Location: Canada
LouisN wrote:
The tube is patched, and holds air fine (2 days now).
Now I'll go and buy a 200m roll of waxed dental floss, so I have enough for the stitching job..
Louis :)


BOOM!!! :cry:

After many hours of stitching the casing back together (I was pretty proud of the job I did), I inflated the tub and that's the sound I heard (at around 80 PSI)...I guess the bulge I was talking about a few pages back was a weak spot in the tube, and it's now ripped somewhere... :( Now I'm pissed. I'll (maybe) get back to the job later in the winter...

Louis :)

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 3910
Location: Canada
Dental floss? I think you need thread that is stronger than that. I recommend a good-quality coated linen thread (like the stuff Velox supplied). It is typically used today for sewing buttons on field coats and shooting apparel. You can get it at better sewing supply stores or perhaps your local tailor shop.


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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:59 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5504
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Depends on the quality of the dental floss. The cheaper ones tend to stretch enough to create bulges in the tyre. Or it may rip apart.

I always use Johnson & Johnson's waxed (water repellent) flat (making for low height stitches) floss which is made of silk. Works great. Better than the cotton stuff that come with some of those Velox kits.
I can rip that to shreds with my bare hands, promise.

Ciao, ;)

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.


Last edited by fdegrove on Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tubular Repair
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1436
Location: Canada
I don't think the dental floss is the problem. The casing is holding up fine (I use the J&J flat too :)). I just finished unsewing the area where the tube blew. Put a second patch. Sew back together. Inflate to 60 PSI. Holding fine but...

Result: Pretty crappy.... :cry:

The experience taught me a lot of things. Mostly.

1) Always make shure to locate a leak and be 100% shure about the area before cutting the string... :x
2) I'll sew with an XXXXX pattern next time. When you put the air pressure back in a tubular with a l/l/l/l/l/ pattern repair, the casing moves and twists a little, and the final shape is not really nice and smooth.

Louis :)

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