Tubular Repair
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 571
- Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:31 pm
Sliced a two week old Mavic griplink today. Gutted, looks beyond repair.
Hi,
And you have no recourse whatsoever?
The griplink idea is not bad at all though, I like it and in fact have adopted years before it became a marketeer's find..
Engineers should look more at how the weight distribution of a bike affects things. That would be a means to progress.
Sorry about those tyres,
And you have no recourse whatsoever?
The griplink idea is not bad at all though, I like it and in fact have adopted years before it became a marketeer's find..
Engineers should look more at how the weight distribution of a bike affects things. That would be a means to progress.
Sorry about those tyres,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
Hi,
The idea was to shed a few grams by mounting a lighter tubular up front than rear.
What's important in this case is to use tyres with the same compounds and (to a much lesser extend) thread profile.
Mavic's take on it takes the concpet a step further by optimizing the compound specifically for front and rear wheel.
Not something you want to do by trial and error....
Ciao,
The idea was to shed a few grams by mounting a lighter tubular up front than rear.
What's important in this case is to use tyres with the same compounds and (to a much lesser extend) thread profile.
Mavic's take on it takes the concpet a step further by optimizing the compound specifically for front and rear wheel.
Not something you want to do by trial and error....
Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
fdegrove wrote:Hi,
You can use an old latex inner tube as a donor. That's what most people do.
Remember to round the patches.
Ciao,
I found a donor ...
The tube is patched, and holds air fine (2 days now).
Now I'll go and buy a 200m roll of waxed dental floss, so I have enough for the stitching job .
And I also ordered barge cement to glue the (WHOLE!) basetape back on. I read earlier on the thread some member put parchment paper between the rim and tubular, I guess to prevent from sticking on the rim...
Is that needed ? Or I can just mount it on an old rim, and let dry as is ?
Louis
Hi,
I guess the paper prevents the tub from sticking to the rim while at same time preventing the base tape from slipping sideways as you mount the tub on the spare rim.
I never used it but then I never pulled the entire base tape off either..
As for the dental floss....I'd go for the family pack if I were you.
200m?
Ciao,
I guess the paper prevents the tub from sticking to the rim while at same time preventing the base tape from slipping sideways as you mount the tub on the spare rim.
I never used it but then I never pulled the entire base tape off either..
As for the dental floss....I'd go for the family pack if I were you.
200m?
Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
In light of a previous question the liquid latex solution readily available from art supply shops is called "masking fluid". You shouldn't receive any funny looks if you ask for it by that name, and it is available wherever you can buy artists paints. Here is one of many examples....http://www.winsornewton.com/products.as ... ductID=877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Nice thread
Regards,
Lewis Allen
Nice thread
Regards,
Lewis Allen
LouisN wrote:The tube is patched, and holds air fine (2 days now).
Now I'll go and buy a 200m roll of waxed dental floss, so I have enough for the stitching job..
Louis
BOOM!!!
After many hours of stitching the casing back together (I was pretty proud of the job I did), I inflated the tub and that's the sound I heard (at around 80 PSI)...I guess the bulge I was talking about a few pages back was a weak spot in the tube, and it's now ripped somewhere... Now I'm pissed. I'll (maybe) get back to the job later in the winter...
Louis
Dental floss? I think you need thread that is stronger than that. I recommend a good-quality coated linen thread (like the stuff Velox supplied). It is typically used today for sewing buttons on field coats and shooting apparel. You can get it at better sewing supply stores or perhaps your local tailor shop.
Hi,
Depends on the quality of the dental floss. The cheaper ones tend to stretch enough to create bulges in the tyre. Or it may rip apart.
I always use Johnson & Johnson's waxed (water repellent) flat (making for low height stitches) floss which is made of silk. Works great. Better than the cotton stuff that come with some of those Velox kits.
I can rip that to shreds with my bare hands, promise.
Ciao,
Depends on the quality of the dental floss. The cheaper ones tend to stretch enough to create bulges in the tyre. Or it may rip apart.
I always use Johnson & Johnson's waxed (water repellent) flat (making for low height stitches) floss which is made of silk. Works great. Better than the cotton stuff that come with some of those Velox kits.
I can rip that to shreds with my bare hands, promise.
Ciao,
Last edited by fdegrove on Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I don't think the dental floss is the problem. The casing is holding up fine (I use the J&J flat too ). I just finished unsewing the area where the tube blew. Put a second patch. Sew back together. Inflate to 60 PSI. Holding fine but...
Result: Pretty crappy....
The experience taught me a lot of things. Mostly.
1) Always make shure to locate a leak and be 100% shure about the area before cutting the string...
2) I'll sew with an XXXXX pattern next time. When you put the air pressure back in a tubular with a l/l/l/l/l/ pattern repair, the casing moves and twists a little, and the final shape is not really nice and smooth.
Louis
Result: Pretty crappy....
The experience taught me a lot of things. Mostly.
1) Always make shure to locate a leak and be 100% shure about the area before cutting the string...
2) I'll sew with an XXXXX pattern next time. When you put the air pressure back in a tubular with a l/l/l/l/l/ pattern repair, the casing moves and twists a little, and the final shape is not really nice and smooth.
Louis