Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Blog NEW Galleries NEW FAQ Contact About Impressum
It is currently Wed Dec 07, 2016 9:44 pm
Recently the board software has been updated and there are some known bugs/failures:
- Avatars are currently not being displayed ✔ FIXED
- Tapatalk connection is currently broken ✔ FIXED
- Avatars cannot be uploaded ✔ FIXED

Please note that we will soon do some changes in WW board template design in case to get a fully mobile/desktop responsiveness board!
If you find more errors please post it here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=139062


All times are UTC+01:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 8:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:30 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Mountain View, CA
I have a DT Swiss 240s hub with the standard Al cassette body. I use a Dura Ace 10sp 11-28 cassette and I tighten the lock ring per spec with a torque wrench. My problem is that I typically need to replace the cassette body every 18-24 months. This is because it starts to wear from the rotational torque of the cogs. At first this wear results in creaking. If I wait long enough, the cogs will rotate back and forth, causing shifting issues and slippage when engaging a cog.

Do others have this problem? Am I doing something wrong or is it typical wear?

I believe that DT Swiss used to offer a steel cassette body, but I can't find this part anymore. What would you suggest for getting better life out of this? Should I look at a different hub? Should I use a one piece cassette, such as the one from SRAM? Should I try to pedal more lightly? ;-)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Top
   
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 8:47 pm 


Top
   
 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 9:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm
Posts: 521
psycling wrote:

1) Do others have this problem?

2) Am I doing something wrong or is it typical wear?

3) I believe that DT Swiss used to offer a steel cassette body, but I can't find this part anymore.

4) Should I look at a different hub?

5) Should I use a one piece cassette, such as the one from SRAM?

6) Should I try to pedal more lightly? ;-)




1: All riders, who are generating a significant amount of watts have this problem.

2: No, you're not. It's normal. Only light riders with low watts can avoid this.

3: Don't know, haven't heard of or seen a steel version

4: That's what I would do. White Industries T11 and Shimano Dura Ace both have titanium body, which don't get chewed up by cassettes. I've bought one of each, and they both are really great, well performing and very durable hubs.

5: You might, but they are expensive. And if you only need a new cassette every 18 months, it's not overwhelming.

6: Definitely not. You should pedal as hard as you can.

7: This topic belongs in the "everything wheels" section.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:19 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:30 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Mountain View, CA
Multebear wrote:
4: That's what I would do. White Industries T11 and Shimano Dura Ace both have titanium body, which don't get chewed up by cassettes. I've bought one of each, and they both are really great, well performing and very durable hubs.

Interesting, thanks. I hadn't considered the Ti body options. I'll look into those.

Multebear wrote:
7: This topic belongs in the "everything wheels" section.

Good point, sorry about that. I don't see a way for me to move it. Perhaps a moderator can help if they agree?


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 1:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
If the cogs are rotating back and forth with the lock ring tightened, it's probably not tight enough.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 2:30 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:08 am
Posts: 669
Use torque grease on the lock ring to ensure you are getting the correct clamping force for your torque reading.

You can also use the paperclip trick.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:29 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:30 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Mountain View, CA
F45 wrote:
You can also use the paperclip trick.


What is this?


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 6:32 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
Staples work better.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 6:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:30 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Mountain View, CA
mattr wrote:
Staples work better.

:noidea:


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
Sorry. Was a bit busy. And i thought it'd be a good wind up :wink:

If you flatten a normal office staple out and place it on the drive face of the freehub between the cassette and freehub spline it increases the life of the freehub significantly. Just replace when you remove/refit the cassette. Last time i could be bothered i got two in. On opposite sides of the freehub. The cassette/lock ring hold it in place.

I think American Classic used to offer it as a retro fit kit of steel "blades" and I've seen at least one manufacturer that has a single half steel spline to toughen the freehub up.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:37 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
F45 wrote:
Use torque grease on the lock ring to ensure you are getting the correct clamping force for your torque reading.
torque grease? End loads are usually calculated with clean, lightly oiled, threads.
So do that if you want an accurate endload.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 8:48 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm
Posts: 521
mattr wrote:
Sorry. Was a bit busy. And i thought it'd be a good wind up :wink:

If you flatten a normal office staple out and place it on the drive face of the freehub between the cassette and freehub spline it increases the life of the freehub significantly. Just replace when you remove/refit the cassette. Last time i could be bothered i got two in. On opposite sides of the freehub. The cassette/lock ring hold it in place.

I think American Classic used to offer it as a retro fit kit of steel "blades" and I've seen at least one manufacturer that has a single half steel spline to toughen the freehub up.


Would you mind posting a picture of this? I've read about this trick several times, but I can't quite image, how it is done.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 9:08 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
I've not got any bikes with this on it anymore. I'm pretty much exclusively steel or ti freehubs these days. And the three aluminum ones i have are very much race day only.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 9:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2885
http://www.discountcyclesdirect.co.uk/i ... body_1.jpg

That's how AC do it. Just try to imagine a thinner strip of steel where the insert is. Wedged between the spline of the freehub and cassette.
You could probably, given patience and accuracy, grind a mm off the freehub to get a proper strip of tool steel in there.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 9:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 5:54 pm
Posts: 361
Multebear wrote:
Would you mind posting a picture of this? I've read about this trick several times, but I can't quite image, how it is done.


Here's an entire video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCIe9fgFDTA

There's this thread too.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54146


Top
   
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 9:25 pm 


Top
   
 
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 1:46 am 
Offline
in the industry
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:14 am
Posts: 1507
Location: SYD
shimano has never produced the design in alloy theirs have always been steel or Ti, basically any aftermarket hub with an alloy free hub is a consumable item.

the campag design works in alloy the shimano one does not have enough material thickness

_________________
Skunkworks Bikes


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. Cassette durability: Dura Ace / Red / Super Record

[ Go to page: 1 2 3 4 ]

in Road

nemeseri

55

4361

Sun Jul 03, 2016 10:36 pm

pdlpsher1 View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. 6800 wheels durability?

in Everything wheels

jchi1234

12

808

Sat Sep 17, 2016 4:45 pm

F45 View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Veloflex Record vs Conti Supersonic - durability

in Road

dereksmalls

5

437

Tue Sep 20, 2016 7:17 pm

RussellS View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Thoughts on best overall tubular tyres - weight, CRR, durability, puncture resistance?

in Road

jahknob

2

728

Sat Jun 11, 2016 4:44 pm

KarlC View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Attachment(s) Advice on Freehub body

in Road

quaman26

2

381

Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:59 am

quaman26 View the latest post


All times are UTC+01:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Boardman and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited