Sub 1300g "everyday" clinchers. Can it be done?
Moderator: robbosmans
i ride amc 350 rims with only 24 spokes rear at 85 kg
no flex noticed like rubbing the brake pads to the rim
but they dont feel as stiff like they give a good powertransfer but that can be my misjudgement
i think the plain dt double butted spokes and pro lock nipples do give that bit of extra
no flex noticed like rubbing the brake pads to the rim
but they dont feel as stiff like they give a good powertransfer but that can be my misjudgement
i think the plain dt double butted spokes and pro lock nipples do give that bit of extra
I'm 58 kg and my everyday wheelset is 1174 grams!
http://www.light-bikes.it/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=92&page=inline&id=549&catid=43&limitstart=0
Ultraclimb SP for me are reliable and pretty stiff, more than my older version Ultraclimb SL (1195 grams) that I used for two years (about 20000 km) without any problems.
Rims are the same (not the best, like American Classic 350) but straight pull spokes is a great improvement!
http://www.light-bikes.it/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=92&page=inline&id=549&catid=43&limitstart=0
Ultraclimb SP for me are reliable and pretty stiff, more than my older version Ultraclimb SL (1195 grams) that I used for two years (about 20000 km) without any problems.
Rims are the same (not the best, like American Classic 350) but straight pull spokes is a great improvement!
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de zwarten wrote:I really don't understand light wheels for heavy guys. I would only feel uncomfortable and ride slower because avoiding holes/bad surface etc..
I have been riding on "light" wheels for a few seasons and I have never had a problem.
I want to keep the wheels as light as possible and I would really like carbon for personal reasons (technology, weight, appearance, etc).
Do I have any options for good sub-1400g carbon clinchers?
rruff wrote:Reynolds DV46C and Tune hubs... 20f, 24r CX-Rays... 1411g last week. The MV32Cs and/or 16f, 20r should put you well under 1400g.
Niiiiiiice How do these compare to the Shamal Ultras that are the same weight? Other than the "cool factor" of carbon rims will the Reynolds be any better?
I was a little bit scared when I got my Shamals, especially since Campy has an all around 80kg weight limit supposedly. They have held up fine and stayed true until now 1000k and have no reason to believe they won't stay true for another 1000k at least. a heavy guy like me at 95 kilos can ride a good selection of light wheels... not every light wheel, I do follow strict weight restrictions (I won't use AC wheels with Sapim Spokes, for instance) and I have been fine, even on a cheap set of Neuvation R28 Sl3's.
Wouldn't it be nice if people actually read what you wrote before responding?
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If you go to the Campy web site they say that they do NOT have a weight limit on Campy wheel. They do recomend servicing them more often if your heavy. I have found Campy wheels to be bomb proof for me even at 95 kilos
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RedRacer wrote:rruff wrote:Reynolds DV46C and Tune hubs... 20f, 24r CX-Rays... 1411g last week. The MV32Cs and/or 16f, 20r should put you well under 1400g.
Niiiiiiice How do these compare to the Shamal Ultras that are the same weight? Other than the "cool factor" of carbon rims will the Reynolds be any better?
I was wondering that exact same question (DV46Cs v Shamal Ultras) this morning. Especially bearing in mind the price diff
RedRacer wrote:The Rolf Elan Aero or Elan Aero RS both look like excellent choices and their design is innovative.
Would these be stronger than custom built wheels of the same weight?
I've got a pair of these wheels and they are good. You get light weight rims, CX ray spokes and smooth hubs and they don't flex so much. I can hear Kysriums hit the brake blocks when I try to flex them, the Rolfs are stiffer, but they do flex a bit. I now use them for training, they've coped with bad weather and rough roads, no problems.
I was looking at the Bonty XXXs. Two questions for the horde:
1. Are there weight limits on these? Bonty site doesn't mention any.
2. I have always ridden clinchers but the weight savings on the tubulars seems hard to beat. I know tubulars are a whole other world. Aside from what I hear is better road feel, do tubulars wind up being siginficantly lighter all told--ie with the tires/glue etc. vs. clinchers? Forgive my ignorance in advance, please!
If I go tubular, can a bear of very little brain like me figure out how to change these, and what about blow-outs mid-ride?
1. Are there weight limits on these? Bonty site doesn't mention any.
2. I have always ridden clinchers but the weight savings on the tubulars seems hard to beat. I know tubulars are a whole other world. Aside from what I hear is better road feel, do tubulars wind up being siginficantly lighter all told--ie with the tires/glue etc. vs. clinchers? Forgive my ignorance in advance, please!
If I go tubular, can a bear of very little brain like me figure out how to change these, and what about blow-outs mid-ride?
I got a pair of bonty xxx tubulars and have been riding them every day for about a month (including commuting). I know, I need another bike.
Things I have noticed: I dropped nearly a pound from the K SLs I had before. Acceleration come really easy. No vulnerability to crosswinds. I haven't detected any give under torque or in turns (but I am a lightweight, 65kg). They are so much more comfortable to ride than the K SL clinchers. I'm prepping another pair of tubulars to see if this is a characteristic of tubs in general.
As a newbie to tubulars, I can say the gluing process is cake, but getting them on the rims and straightened while the 3rd coat is setting is a royal PITA. Even with premounting/stretching, it took everything I got plus tire iron to get the tire on the rim. Then you have to straighten it. Got an enormous blister on my thumb from one of them. Needless to say, I've got plenty to learn when it comes to mounting tubs. But the effort has been worth it.
I recommend you give tubulars a try.
Things I have noticed: I dropped nearly a pound from the K SLs I had before. Acceleration come really easy. No vulnerability to crosswinds. I haven't detected any give under torque or in turns (but I am a lightweight, 65kg). They are so much more comfortable to ride than the K SL clinchers. I'm prepping another pair of tubulars to see if this is a characteristic of tubs in general.
As a newbie to tubulars, I can say the gluing process is cake, but getting them on the rims and straightened while the 3rd coat is setting is a royal PITA. Even with premounting/stretching, it took everything I got plus tire iron to get the tire on the rim. Then you have to straighten it. Got an enormous blister on my thumb from one of them. Needless to say, I've got plenty to learn when it comes to mounting tubs. But the effort has been worth it.
I recommend you give tubulars a try.
2006 Scott CR1 SL
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2006 Litespeed Siena
1991 Specialized Allez Epic
1989 Specialized Stumpjumper
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What tires were that ? conti's ?
shalako wrote:I got a pair of bonty xxx tubulars and have been riding them every day for about a month (including commuting). I know, I need another bike.
Things I have noticed: I dropped nearly a pound from the K SLs I had before.
You say that you have a Scott CR1 SL. What does it weigh with these XXXs on it? Must be crazy light.
Thanks for the advice!
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Keep yourselves away from the Extralite wheelset, except you are a colombian skinny climber, or maybe also in that case
Light wheelset can be done with DT s.e. RR1.1 56DTAeros DT Hubs and DTProlock+Veloplugs, not too reliable or stiff but pretty light around 1480 gr.
If you want more try the new DT 1250 with carbon rims, weighting less than 1.300 with good hubs and spokes but around 2k euros.
A good hub saves you more watts than a lighter wheelset, if you don´t believe try the news Mavic RSys for example, Tune Hubs or other similars, and then try a DT240s.
Regards.
Light wheelset can be done with DT s.e. RR1.1 56DTAeros DT Hubs and DTProlock+Veloplugs, not too reliable or stiff but pretty light around 1480 gr.
If you want more try the new DT 1250 with carbon rims, weighting less than 1.300 with good hubs and spokes but around 2k euros.
A good hub saves you more watts than a lighter wheelset, if you don´t believe try the news Mavic RSys for example, Tune Hubs or other similars, and then try a DT240s.
Regards.