Bora one 35 vs. 50; keep or change?

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audiojan
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Location: New Hampshire

by audiojan

I currently have Bora One 35 (tubulars of course!) on my Pinarello F8. We're moving from PA back to NH and that means the terrain I ride in will change quite a bit. SWPA is very hilly with shorter, but very steep climbs (right out the front door is 18% for 1/2 mile). NH is hilly, but longer, more steady climbs and quite a bit more flat land in between (no such thing in SWPA). Does it make sense to change our my Bora 35's for Bora 50's? Is there enought of a aero advantage. Weight wise, it's not much of a difference between them...
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Priit
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by Priit

audiojan wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:39 pm
Does it make sense to change our my Bora 35's for Bora 50's
No, it doesn't, unless you regularly have average speeds over 40 km/h. But if you definitely need to spend some money then in your place I would buy only 50 mm Bora backwheel - in some shops Bora wheels are sold also separately not only as wheelsets. In strong sidewinds 50 mm front wheels can be sometimes a challenge to use.

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dj97223
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by dj97223

Keep the 35's, and buy a set of 50's. :thumbup:
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AJS914
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by AJS914

How much time savings do you think you could achieve with 50s? Unless you are racing at the world tour level don't waste your money.

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

dj97223 wrote:
Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:17 am
Keep the 35's, and buy a set of 50's. :thumbup:
+1. I have the 50's and I just pulled the trigger on a set of the 35's. We have some windy days here and I need a shallower rim for those days. And I'm thinking of mixing the 35's and the 50's like what Enve does to their wheels. Shallower up front and deeper in the rear.

alcatraz
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by alcatraz

I hate to downtalk campy wheels but aren't V-profile rims a bit old school?

I say try some deeper new style toroidal rims and see which ones you like best. Who knows you might like them. Zipp/Roval/Enve etc most are toroidal. Only campy and lightweight are stuck with V-profile.

Campy has amazing braking but if you're no longer going down 18% slopes I'd risk trying something else. A lot of the money spent is just in the brake track alone.

I'm not a professional. Just my thoughts on the matter. :)

/a

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Campy's rim profile has the best compromise between aero drag and weight. U shaped rims are heavier because there are more materials. At low yaw angles 'V' and 'U' shapes have the same aero qualities. The Campy wheels test out very well aerodynamically by the German Tour magazine. And lastly a wheelset isn't a good wheelset unless it has quality hubs. Campy hubs are magnificent.

Lightweight's rim profile is not even close to Campy's profile.

And Campy's rear wheels are stiff due to the 2:1 spoke pattern. Zipp/Roval/Enve don't offer 2:1 spoking.

jlok
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by jlok

Roval CLX disc brake rear wheels are 2:1 just fyi.

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alcatraz
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by alcatraz

Because V-profiled rims don't work as well with side winds, I'd go with deeper toroidal rims for better aero performance while maintaining a similar stability.

The weight actually helps to keep you rolling at higher speeds. Lack of steep hills basically eliminates the negative higher weight issue.

I'd use the existing campy wheels for those rare climbing rides you say there won't be many of at the new place you live. Bora 50s are too close to 35s. Perhaps use Bora 50s if you want to sell your 35s and keep a single wheelset.

2:1 rear wheel lacing is good stuff. Get it if you can.

If you are a heavier rider or a very powerful rider get a bit more solid hubs. No small ball bearings.

/a

3Pio
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by 3Pio

I have in this moment two wheelset. Bora One 35 Tubular (3D Diamand version), ans Shamal Clinchers.

On Bora 35 i have Vittoria Corsa G+ tires, and after first period of beeing a bit paranoid beeing afraid that maybe tire can be unglued in the riding, i found out that definetely Bora 35 are amazing wheelset. Very nice for climbing (plenty of mountains around with climbs between 5% up to 20%... Climbs with avg grade of 12-13% (10-15 km long), great braking performance (in dry i prefer them to Shamals). I also love them on flat as well, and in crosswinds.. Shamal's are much more prone to crosswinds then Bora 35 (im realizing that bigger problem to cross wind are shape of spokes, then shape of profile of the rims). (in start i was thinking oposite, but after few months i realize that definetely Bora 35 less prone to cross wind (almost not at all) vs Shamals (sometimes beeing a bit dangerous, again, i guess because of shape of spokes).

Im also very close to buy another set of wheels (Bora One 50 new version AC3), for another reason..

Corsa G+ which i use are very comfortable, nice grip, lightweight.. But on last pair i had about 1800 km until i need to switch them. After i use lower pressure, i can realize they last more (i have 1600 km on this new pair, and still look good).

But anyway, i dont need all the time this kind of tires, and after i realize how much better are tubs vs clinchers (more comfortable, ligher, more reactive, and specialy stabiity going downhill.), i think to buy another set of tubs (Bora 50 One tubs), and to put there Continental tires which i read are lasting longer (Competition or even Sprinter for October/November and Begining of Season) (but compromise a comfort a little bit)..

So that way i'll have one set ready for climbing/longer rides and other which will be better for riding flats/shorter rides, or ride in bad weather...So that way in same time i'll save my Corsa G+ from rides where i dont need them, and will have wheelset for every type of ride...And also will be able to experiment with different tires more easely for different type of rides...

But i guess im just trying to find reason to buy another set of wheelset :) and to feel that is logical and rational decision.. :) even probably it's not :)

If im right that spoke shape is more CrossWind prone then rim Profile, i wont be suprised if i find out that Bora 50 are also less prone to Crosswind then Shamals....

So keep 35, and get another set 50 :)

dim
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by dim

this is the way I see things:

aero wheels look cool .... but they don't look cool on a bike that does not have an aero frame. Aero wheels don't look good on a bike with a thin frame (such as a Scott Addict)

all my mates ride at 20mph on the flats with no wind, irrespective of what wheels they are using

however, start climbing steep hills or have a strong crosswind, and those with the lightest wheels (matched with tyres that match the rim width), are always in the front (sometimes by far)

so.... I'd look at a lightweight climbing wheelset, with good hubs and good tubeless tyres (get the wheels handbuilt by a good wheelbuilder)
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RyanH
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by RyanH

Bora 50s are only like 20g heavier than 35s. You'll have to dig through my Litespeed build thread to find the actual difference but it's minute.

3Pio
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by 3Pio

I just got Bora One 50 AC3. They are 1240 gm, which is 75 gm hevier than Bora 35 Diamond 3D i own.I expected a bit less, but that is what it is :)ImageImageImageImage

hannawald
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by hannawald

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:47 am
Campy's rim profile has the best compromise between aero drag and weight. U shaped rims are heavier because there are more materials. At low yaw angles 'V' and 'U' shapes have the same aero qualities. The Campy wheels test out very well aerodynamically by the German Tour magazine. And lastly a wheelset isn't a good wheelset unless it has quality hubs. Campy hubs are magnificent.

Lightweight's rim profile is not even close to Campy's profile.

And Campy's rear wheels are stiff due to the 2:1 spoke pattern. Zipp/Roval/Enve don't offer 2:1 spoking.
Can you remember some details how Campy did in aero test? I am a bit hasitant about its profile..everybody say go wide U shape:)

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86


pdlpsher1 wrote:
And Campy's rear wheels are stiff due to the 2:1 spoke pattern. Zipp/Roval/Enve don't offer 2:1 spoking.
Fact check? CLX is 2:1 and Tubeless, long proven DT internals with ceramic bearings and in most cases for us mortals tubeless will be faster than tubs. Image

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