Building with butted straight-pull spokes
Moderator: robbosmans
I know in advance that this is going to be divisive with the majority calling me an idiot.
I'm building a set of Hope Pro4-sp hubs on to a pair is Stans Crest mk3 rims. On account of them being a quarter the price of Sapim CX-Rays and DT Aerolites and much easier to get a hold of I'm using DT Competition spokes. Being round the obvious issue is going to be stopping any twisting.
With regards to prepping the rim and spokes I was just going to use some wet lube. Would I benefit from getting some proper wheel building oil?
Any help (other than "don't") will be appreciated
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I'm building a set of Hope Pro4-sp hubs on to a pair is Stans Crest mk3 rims. On account of them being a quarter the price of Sapim CX-Rays and DT Aerolites and much easier to get a hold of I'm using DT Competition spokes. Being round the obvious issue is going to be stopping any twisting.
With regards to prepping the rim and spokes I was just going to use some wet lube. Would I benefit from getting some proper wheel building oil?
Any help (other than "don't") will be appreciated
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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I did a set for my wife last year. 24 spoke SP hope hubs to stans iron cross. Just used a pair of soft jaw pliers that I have for adjusting/ holding RC car shock shafts.
Took no longer than building j bend spoked wheels. Didn't need lube or anything else special to build the wheels.
Took no longer than building j bend spoked wheels. Didn't need lube or anything else special to build the wheels.
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I use automotive anti-sieze on my spoke threads. It is an absolute must for aluminum nipples but works well with brass, too. In my experience, holding spokes directly with the metal jaws of good lineman pliers is the best way to combat excessive twist, like when building with 1.5mm center section spokes. Comps are far easier to build with than Revolutions.
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pro tip.... dip the spoke ends in carbon pasted before you install them.. with will hold them in place once the tension gets up.. and always lube your nipples a pair of metal pliers is a bad idea
Thanks for the tipsugarkane wrote:pro tip.... dip the spoke ends in carbon pasted before you install them...
If only ayalcatraz wrote:Isn't it tricky to know how much the spoke is wound up if it's only held by the spoke head? Sounds tricky...
If only the could be held closer to the nipple.
/a
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Park 4th hand tool also works well as a spoke holder.
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Roval make a rubber jawed round spoke holder. It's what a lot of wheel builders use. I don't own one as I don't really build with round spokes but my friends that are pro builders all swear by it. It's not cheap though