Building with butted straight-pull spokes

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Jengaback
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by Jengaback

I know in advance that this is going to be divisive with the majority calling me an idiot.

I'm building a set of Hope Pro4-sp hubs on to a pair is Stans Crest mk3 rims. On account of them being a quarter the price of Sapim CX-Rays and DT Aerolites and much easier to get a hold of I'm using DT Competition spokes. Being round the obvious issue is going to be stopping any twisting.

With regards to prepping the rim and spokes I was just going to use some wet lube. Would I benefit from getting some proper wheel building oil?

Any help (other than "don't") will be appreciated

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alcatraz
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by alcatraz

I'm just an amateur but what if you use pliars with something in between to hold the end of the spoke as you tension the last bit?

Yes it's a pain in the ass but thankfully it's only at the end when tensions are high.

/a

Jengaback
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by Jengaback

My plan was to use a bit of hard rubber in either pliers or, if I really have issues, mole grips

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mattr
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by mattr

I did a set for my wife last year. 24 spoke SP hope hubs to stans iron cross. Just used a pair of soft jaw pliers that I have for adjusting/ holding RC car shock shafts.
Took no longer than building j bend spoked wheels. Didn't need lube or anything else special to build the wheels.

joejack951
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by joejack951

I use automotive anti-sieze on my spoke threads. It is an absolute must for aluminum nipples but works well with brass, too. In my experience, holding spokes directly with the metal jaws of good lineman pliers is the best way to combat excessive twist, like when building with 1.5mm center section spokes. Comps are far easier to build with than Revolutions.

Jengaback
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by Jengaback

#joejack951 are you referring to the Milwaukee pliers? I don't have the exact ones but something similar. Did just using these affect the anodising on the spoke?

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joejack951
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by joejack951

Jengaback wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 9:05 pm
#joejack951 are you referring to the Milwaukee pliers? I don't have the exact ones but something similar. Did just using these affect the anodising on the spoke?
I used pliers like these and they did not affect the black finish on the spokes:

Image

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sugarkane
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by sugarkane

pro tip.... dip the spoke ends in carbon pasted before you install them.. with will hold them in place once the tension gets up.. and always lube your nipples a pair of metal pliers is a bad idea

alcatraz
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by alcatraz

Isn't it tricky to know how much the spoke is wound up if it's only held by the spoke head? Sounds tricky...

If only the could be held closer to the nipple.

/a

Jengaback
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by Jengaback


sugarkane wrote:pro tip.... dip the spoke ends in carbon pasted before you install them...
Thanks for the tip
alcatraz wrote:Isn't it tricky to know how much the spoke is wound up if it's only held by the spoke head? Sounds tricky...

If only the could be held closer to the nipple.

/a
If only ay

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mattr
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by mattr

alcatraz wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:24 am
Sounds tricky...
Sounds daft, probably going to make it wind up more. And bugger to get it to unwind.
Just get some of these.
Image

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I have never has a SP round spoke twist when building. twist when trying to true after it has been ridden alot thats a different matter.

bremerradkurier
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by bremerradkurier

Park 4th hand tool also works well as a spoke holder.

Jengaback
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by Jengaback

bremerradkurier wrote:Park 4th hand tool also works well as a spoke holder.
I've got one lying around the workshop somewhere but was nervous about it scratching the spokes

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sugarkane
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by sugarkane

Roval make a rubber jawed round spoke holder. It's what a lot of wheel builders use. I don't own one as I don't really build with round spokes but my friends that are pro builders all swear by it. It's not cheap though

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