Quick Releases
Moderator: robbosmans
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I'm not sure ...
but what I have learned recently is that one should not skimp on weight when it comes to quick releases ...
Many recomend the newer Dura Ace skewers (which I will be buying on next payday ... plus the new Dura ace pedals thjat have the 40mm extension on the shafts which I will also buy) ...
these are the 2 things that one must choose wisely, and forget about weight savings
Trek Emonda SL6
Miyata One Thousand
Miyata One Thousand
If you have squeaky dropouts you need a bit more robust quick release.
I'm running 27gr/pair quick release without carbon axle (butted titanium) and it holds fine at lower tensions
For higher tensions you'd need a bit more material on the nuts/axle. Around 50gr/pair kind works well for my friend's sqeaky trek domane. Feels very solid closing them tight. Remember to grease them regularly because 7075 alloy doesn't play that well unmaintained year after year.
/a
I'm running 27gr/pair quick release without carbon axle (butted titanium) and it holds fine at lower tensions
For higher tensions you'd need a bit more material on the nuts/axle. Around 50gr/pair kind works well for my friend's sqeaky trek domane. Feels very solid closing them tight. Remember to grease them regularly because 7075 alloy doesn't play that well unmaintained year after year.
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Yup. Pedals and QRs are two things I want to be robust. From my own experience both of them contribute to power transfer. I’m using Dura Ace pedals and Mavic Ti QRs (88 grams). The Mavic QRs clamp as well as Dura Ace QRs but at a lighter weight.
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I run Extralite Streeters- 29g and triple butted ti. Never had an issue with noise and holds fine.
Easy way to save 100g compared to Dura Ace or Campagnolo boat anchors.
Easy way to save 100g compared to Dura Ace or Campagnolo boat anchors.
I don’t- it’s completely unnecessary for rim braking. And most people who care about weight would never run a QR as heavy as Dura-ace.
Zipp Ti skewers are pretty darn good. They aren't the lightest but are pretty light. They have a brass cam and I can often find them for around $40/pair.
It depends on your dental clinic price list and how good your medical insurance is, but I would say a lot.
Last place to save weight.
Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
I went down this rabbit hole... Tried a bunch, Tune, Extralite. I now am back on DT Swiss RWS. The long and the short of it is that Ti stretches under load regardless of tension, simply, no matter how tight you get a thin Ti skewer it will still basically stretch the same (an engineer on here will explain better than me) so the result is that if you are strong the side loads on the dropouts allow the interface to flex and the rim move. If you are going for light skewers it's probably safe to assume that you already run light wheels, in my case this would result in brake rub, even frame rub with 25mm tyres. After trying every trick in the book I just went back to thicker non-butted but still Ti DT skewers and have never thought about it until now! Not worth the headache in my opinion.
+1. I’m now using non-butted Ti rod and an internal cam mechanism on my QR (Mavic Ti). I have heard a lot of good things on the DT RWS.sp3000 wrote:I went down this rabbit hole... Tried a bunch, Tune, Extralite. I now am back on DT Swiss RWS. The long and the short of it is that Ti stretches under load regardless of tension, simply, no matter how tight you get a thin Ti skewer it will still basically stretch the same (an engineer on here will explain better than me) so the result is that if you are strong the side loads on the dropouts allow the interface to flex and the rim move. If you are going for light skewers it's probably safe to assume that you already run light wheels, in my case this would result in brake rub, even frame rub with 25mm tyres. After trying every trick in the book I just went back to thicker non-butted but still Ti DT skewers and have never thought about it until now! Not worth the headache in my opinion.
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The Mavic QR's are excellent, just as good as the DT Swiss, only difference is in how easy the DT Swiss are to use because you screw them up rather than clamp closed. The Mavic can be tight to open where the DT is just unwinding. When riding I would say no difference at all, just easier on the DT to adjust the tension as you do them up albeit a little slower.pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2018 4:05 pm+1. I’m now using non-butted Ti rod and an internal cam mechanism on my QR (Mavic Ti). I have heard a lot of good things on the DT RWS.sp3000 wrote:I went down this rabbit hole... Tried a bunch, Tune, Extralite. I now am back on DT Swiss RWS. The long and the short of it is that Ti stretches under load regardless of tension, simply, no matter how tight you get a thin Ti skewer it will still basically stretch the same (an engineer on here will explain better than me) so the result is that if you are strong the side loads on the dropouts allow the interface to flex and the rim move. If you are going for light skewers it's probably safe to assume that you already run light wheels, in my case this would result in brake rub, even frame rub with 25mm tyres. After trying every trick in the book I just went back to thicker non-butted but still Ti DT skewers and have never thought about it until now! Not worth the headache in my opinion.