Berd polymer spokes
Moderator: robbosmans
Materials like this are used for suspension lines in parachutes. The UMHWPE lines like Spectra and Dyneema basically don't stretch, and can lead to a noticeable increase in opening shock over a line made of PET fibre like Dacron.
One thing they do is permanently shrink from heat, in the case of parachutes a fraction at a time from the friction of a smooth brass grommet on the slider descending the lines as the canopy inflates. I don't know what kind of temperature is involved though, or if it spokes cold be exposed to anything like it, from proximity to or conduction from a hot brake disc for instance (which would way more than hot enough to melt the material on contact).
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I just got in a set to build for a customer. I'm rebuilding their SES3.4 (with DT240s) from CXRays to these. I'll update with some photos shortly. Starting the build tonight.
They claim 2.3g vs. 4.4g for a DT Rev at 265mm.Lelandjt wrote:So for equal length how much lighter is each spoke than a CX-Ray?
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/arti ... kes-51391/
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My scale is not WW approved, so I can't comment with 100% confidence on that. The Berd spoke showed as 1g on my scale the CXRay showed as 5g. I don't know this scale's rounding protocol and it apparently doesn't believe in decimal places, so it could be that the Berd is 1.4g and the Sapim is 4.5g and that's just how it rounded. I'll check at the shop tomorrow where I have a scale that does decimals, I think.
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I can update with better information. I am largely parroting from my thread on the paceline.
The front wheel is now laced. It came in at 615g, compared to 675g prior. So that's 60g savings, over 20 spokes, is about 3g per spoke, which lends credence to my suppositions about the rounding of my scale and decimals.
Using small (garrote gauge?) wire, the loop at the end of the spoke is pulled through the hub. It took a surprising amount of force to pull them through - my hands and arms are tired after having done it. It required looping the wire around a hand (gloved) and pulling quite hard.
Then a rod is slipped through the loop on the end of the spoke, and then the spoke is pulled to capture the rod as such.
Lacing is tricky, perhaps the second will be easier (I suspect it will) as it requires threading only the smallest amount of threads of the nipple possible onto the spoke, as these spokes have a huge amount of stretch at the onset. I was barely able to get the last one threaded on.
I will now tension and true a little bit, but not much as I haven't made the required padded pliers to hold onto the spoke to prevent twisting. A trip to the store tomorrow to grab a set of somewhat expendable pliers is in order.
The front wheel is now laced. It came in at 615g, compared to 675g prior. So that's 60g savings, over 20 spokes, is about 3g per spoke, which lends credence to my suppositions about the rounding of my scale and decimals.
Using small (garrote gauge?) wire, the loop at the end of the spoke is pulled through the hub. It took a surprising amount of force to pull them through - my hands and arms are tired after having done it. It required looping the wire around a hand (gloved) and pulling quite hard.
Then a rod is slipped through the loop on the end of the spoke, and then the spoke is pulled to capture the rod as such.
Lacing is tricky, perhaps the second will be easier (I suspect it will) as it requires threading only the smallest amount of threads of the nipple possible onto the spoke, as these spokes have a huge amount of stretch at the onset. I was barely able to get the last one threaded on.
I will now tension and true a little bit, but not much as I haven't made the required padded pliers to hold onto the spoke to prevent twisting. A trip to the store tomorrow to grab a set of somewhat expendable pliers is in order.
Can you disclose the spokes price? Berd doesn't list it on their website.
Please post a photo of the nipple end and describe how it's attached and tightened if it's not obvious to the eye. A wrench attachment point on the spoke would be welcome like on PBO spokes.
Are the spokes round or "bladed"? I'm guessing not very aero so only for my MTB XC wheels.
After final tensioning let us know how the length worked out compared to the steel spokes. Like if my CX-Rays are the perfect length should I tell that number to Berd or should I add or subtract a millimeter?
Are the spokes round or "bladed"? I'm guessing not very aero so only for my MTB XC wheels.
After final tensioning let us know how the length worked out compared to the steel spokes. Like if my CX-Rays are the perfect length should I tell that number to Berd or should I add or subtract a millimeter?
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It's attached just like a normal spoke. tighten a normal spoke nipple to tighten (in this case an ENVE spoke nipple)Lelandjt wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:10 amPlease post a photo of the nipple end and describe how it's attached and tightened if it's not obvious to the eye. A wrench attachment point on the spoke would be welcome like on PBO spokes.
Are the spokes round or "bladed"? I'm guessing not very aero so only for my MTB XC wheels.
After final tensioning let us know how the length worked out compared to the steel spokes. Like if my CX-Rays are the perfect length should I tell that number to Berd or should I add or subtract a millimeter?
The spokes are mildly elliptical....I thought this was WW, not slowtwitch? Surely ~3g of weight savings per spoke matters to most on this forum more than aero??
You'll need to give Berd the ERD of the rims and the particular hubs you're using and they will calculate the legnth. These have quite a bit of stretch at the onset, so I couldn't begin to tell you just take 1mm off, or 5mm. No idea.
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I wouldn't use one of these for that; such a product already exists, FiberFix, which are considerably smaller and more packable.
What about spoke windup? For an Sapim CX-Ray, I use a DT Swiss tool to prevent twisting/windup , but with these, is twisting really even a consideration?
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
I have messaged them. One set of my clinchers weigh around 1180grms with the Stan’s rims that I have sanded down ,I am replacing the rear hub for. Bitex hub. 6 pawl . I’ve trashed so many lightweight hubs . So I’ve asked for a quote and time. Now have a bitex on my rear wheel right now ( kinlin Xr 200 rims) and seems very good so replacing the AC rear hub which got chewed up .the little black spacer things just disintegrated into small pieces.
I’ll let you know . Should get the clinchers weight down quite significantly. Depends on cost.
The set im riding on right now are 20 /24 spoke Sap superspokes they weigh 1182grms probably wont be much point trying the spokes on those wheels .
I’ll let you know . Should get the clinchers weight down quite significantly. Depends on cost.
The set im riding on right now are 20 /24 spoke Sap superspokes they weigh 1182grms probably wont be much point trying the spokes on those wheels .
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They are $8 a pop at retail.
For windup they send a pair of small leather pads to attach to pliers to grab the spoke while tensioning. The jaws of my fancy Roval anti-spoke twist tool do not open wide enough, even without the leather pads, and nor does my old school twist resist tool.
The same customer for whom I am building these has a set of wheels I built for them (kinlins and extralite) that are 1141g, so I suspect we could get damn close to 1000g when we go this route.
For windup they send a pair of small leather pads to attach to pliers to grab the spoke while tensioning. The jaws of my fancy Roval anti-spoke twist tool do not open wide enough, even without the leather pads, and nor does my old school twist resist tool.
The same customer for whom I am building these has a set of wheels I built for them (kinlins and extralite) that are 1141g, so I suspect we could get damn close to 1000g when we go this route.
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