MAVIC - why their new rims are rubbish, wheel building skills non-existent and why you shouldn't buy from them

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
kode54
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by kode54

yeah, i usually pinch the tire towards the middle channel when installing Tubeless tires. makes for somewhat easier installation.
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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

The type of lever is important as well. Campagnolo levers are difficult to get under tight tyres and when you do you could conceivably put too much load on the sidewall. If the side wall has a defect as well that might be enough to damage the rim as shown. I used to use campagnolo levers alot until the irc levers became available. These solve this problem due to there shape. The more I think K about this the less I think it is the rims fault although is defect is always possible.

Campagnolo levers are best used on non tubeless rims with looser fitting tyres. For anything tight a different lever I required from experience. You may ask how I know this.

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whosatthewheel
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by whosatthewheel

The point is that you shouldn't be able to crack a rim with a brake track by leveraging with a plastic lever... the lever should break first. I would understand if it was a disc brake rim for low pressure tyres and mega thin walls, but this shouldn't.

I think I'll steer clear of Open PRO UST to be honest... it seems a lot of hassle to save 30 grams over more robust rims

TobinHatesYou
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by TobinHatesYou

https://novemberbicycles.com/blogs/blog ... en-pro-ust

409-415g for medium-wide alloy rims with brake-tracks is somewhat ridiculous. Eyelets on a UST rim is also a bit ridiculous.

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kavitator
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by kavitator

If clincher/tubeless rim is without inflated tire there is no force on sidewalls

Maybe Mavic design so thin walls with this in mind

if you ride tubulars clincher (Tufo makes them) you can risk destroying rim when hit holes - no supported sidewalls

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I have levered a few tyres onto these rims now and the brake track has not collapsed. Campag levers don't break so it is quite possible to bend the rim rather than break the lever. The outer width of the rim is 24 mm so brake track thickness is similar to the kinlin xr22t. I have never managed to bend the latter rim. So j still think this is user error combined perhaps with a rim with a defect.

One thing not widely known about rim manufacture is when the extrusion process is started to draw the rim the wall thickness vary. All mavic had to do is cut the variable section off short so a faulty extrusion gets turned into a rim.

Eyelets in light rims make sense tom hate you. The spoke nipple bed is quite thick. The erd if this rim is 593mm not the 589mm mavic claim and for a rim this deep that means it should avoid the fate of the pacenti rims, time will tell though.

Other things to note is the rim can be radially trued so radial stiffness is not very high meaning a 28 spoke rear minimum.

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StradaJon
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by StradaJon

One of our customers bent a brand new SL25 Gen II rim doing the same thing. Tyre choice and compatibility to a rim is critical with light tubeless ready alloy (and carbon!) rims.
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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

that took some doing was he/she proud of thyself?

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F45
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by F45

I witnessed two bike shop employees crank on a Gatorskin tire onto these new OP rims. He was doing it right, beads in the center channel. The rim did fine.

I think either the original poster is a clumsy oaf or the wall thickness is thin on his example.

gummee
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 3:01 pm

by gummee

AJS914 wrote:What is your technique? I think if one gets both beads in the center channel you'll have success.

I wonder if talc will hinder tubeless sealant. Talc has always been my go-to lubricant for easy installation of non-tubeless tires.

Tubeless need to be mounted 'backwards.' As in 'start at the spot opposite the valve and work towards the valve.' Yes, it really does make a difference.

Looks like the OP didn't do that and paid the price. I don't see 'manufacturer's defect' I see 'ham fist.' Having said that, if I were Mavic, I'd probably offer a 'one time only' goodwill rim to the OP.

HTH

M

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Calnago
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by Calnago

gummee wrote:
AJS914 wrote:What is your technique? I think if one gets both beads in the center channel you'll have success.

Tubeless need to be mounted 'backwards.' As in 'start at the spot opposite the valve and work towards the valve.' Yes, it really does make a difference.

Thats “backwards”? I think it’s pretty much known standard procedure (or should be) for any rim tire combo with a “tight” fit, regardless of whether it’s a normal tubed clincher or a tubeless clincher.
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C36
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by C36

c60rider wrote:The reason for my title is as a result of the picture below and how Mavic dealt with it...


I am missing something here...
Did Mavic had anything to do on the built itself? The rim may or may not be difficult to assemble but that all on the guy behind the wheel assembly. Mavic has nothing to do on the no tension spoke (or I missed something).
On the tire installation, read the tech talk on their website and you will see the dimensional analysis they did on tubless tires... basically it is all over the place, rim or tires manufacturers are way outside the norms (that is there for a reason). I would look a lot more after the tire than the rim!

I still see this rim as the most advanced standalone aluminium rim for custom builds. And unless you missed sharing infos at best I am seeing a manufacturing defect, at worse an illustration than tubules tires need a norm...

C36
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by C36

TobinHatesYou wrote:https://novemberbicycles.com/blogs/blog ... en-pro-ust

409-415g for medium-wide alloy rims with brake-tracks is somewhat ridiculous. Eyelets on a UST rim is also a bit ridiculous.


Based on what?
- weight: you are comparing traditional rims with constant wall thickness with variable wall thickness.
- for months I see people complaining about the eyelets and nobody has yet provided a reasonable answer... does it looks "old" ? I don't care if Mavic feels they are needed... Dt tried without and had to put some back... I would rather have a 410 g rim with them than an 450 without... I could buy some corrosion problems seen on some eyelets but except this....
Last edited by C36 on Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

AJS914
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by AJS914

Calnago wrote:
gummee wrote:
AJS914 wrote:What is your technique? I think if one gets both beads in the center channel you'll have success.

Tubeless need to be mounted 'backwards.' As in 'start at the spot opposite the valve and work towards the valve.' Yes, it really does make a difference.

Thats “backwards”? I think it’s pretty much known standard procedure (or should be) for any rim tire combo with a “tight” fit, regardless of whether it’s a normal tubed clincher or a tubeless clincher.



Interesting, mounting tubed tires I've always left the valve to the side but pushed it up so the tire beams could squeeze into the center channel. I've never had a tire I couldn't mount and with a little talc I can almost always mount them by hand.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

@AJS914: Yes, I would typically do it that way as well, as I prefer to have the tire seated at the valve area first in a normal tubed clincher if possible. But if it’s a really tight fit, then starting at the opposite side from the valve can give you just a little bit more room as you work it around the rim. As with most things, it all depends on the situation. I don’t really think there’s a “backwards” way if it works and I rarely have to resort to starting at the other side of valve, but I’m not generally dealing with tubeless rims either.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

by Weenie


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