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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:32 pm 
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Location: Estonia
If using asymmetric rim, it does not matter straight pull on J-bend? Both ok? Disc brake.

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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:32 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:37 pm 
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J00P wrote:
On the rims I am not sure yet. I Did some reading and it seems the asymmetric dt411 would result in a better wheel than the symmetric 460s?

Yes, i ve also heard the shimano hubs are good, but I think they are quite heavy and need more care than the wheels with industrial bearings?


Definitely go asymmetric on the rear rim. Never ever build a rear wheel today without an asymmetric rear rim.

Shimano hubs heavy? Maybe compared to super light Extralite hubs. Worrying about heavy hubs on a touring bike carrying 8-10 kilograms of gear? More care? Ha Ha Ho Ho. Good one. Every few years I take apart my Shimano and Campagnolo hubs and put new grease in them and adjust them. People spend more time F---ing with their chainrings than I do my quality hubs.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Maybe i should mention: Only 2 weeks per year i carry the 8 kg of luggage!
The rest of the year I always feel and appriciate if i ride my light weight kinlins 270 (28sp, 1.5kg) vs the mavics A317 wheelset of 2.2kg of my old touring bike.


Last edited by J00P on Fri Nov 03, 2017 9:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:58 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2016 1:35 pm
Posts: 110
RussellS wrote:
J00P wrote:
On the rims I am not sure yet. I Did some reading and it seems the asymmetric dt411 would result in a better wheel than the symmetric 460s?

Yes, i ve also heard the shimano hubs are good, but I think they are quite heavy and need more care than the wheels with industrial bearings?


Definitely go asymmetric on the rear rim. Never ever build a rear wheel today without an asymmetric rear rim.

Shimano hubs heavy? Maybe compared to super light Extralite hubs. Worrying about heavy hubs on a touring bike carrying 8-10 kilograms of gear? More care? Ha Ha Ho Ho. Good one. Every few years I take apart my Shimano and Campagnolo hubs and put new grease in them and adjust them. People spend more time F---ing with their chainrings than I do my quality hubs.


I have built a few hundred wheels for 11 speed with symmetric rims without a single issue... I am sure lots of builders have an identical experience

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:58 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If use asymmetric and symmetric rim in builds. while asymmetric is in theory better neither gives spokes failures so it could be academic but if you have the choice....

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:59 pm 
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whosatthewheel wrote:
RussellS wrote:
J00P wrote:
On the rims I am not sure yet. I Did some reading and it seems the asymmetric dt411 would result in a better wheel than the symmetric 460s?

Yes, i ve also heard the shimano hubs are good, but I think they are quite heavy and need more care than the wheels with industrial bearings?


Definitely go asymmetric on the rear rim. Never ever build a rear wheel today without an asymmetric rear rim.

Shimano hubs heavy? Maybe compared to super light Extralite hubs. Worrying about heavy hubs on a touring bike carrying 8-10 kilograms of gear? More care? Ha Ha Ho Ho. Good one. Every few years I take apart my Shimano and Campagnolo hubs and put new grease in them and adjust them. People spend more time F---ing with their chainrings than I do my quality hubs.


I have built a few hundred wheels for 11 speed with symmetric rims without a single issue... I am sure lots of builders have an identical experience


Yes. And a lot of people have climbed the Alps with a 39x27 cassette back when that was about the only road race option there was. Therefore, that is all you need. Never ever put a lower gear on your bike! But today lots of road race bikes use a 34x32 in the Alps. You are advocating zero margin. Take it right to the edge with absolutely no room for error or chance. Nothing extra. The asymmetric gives you a cushion, extra margin so you are not right at the edge. When I go up to the edge of the cliff, I prefer to have an extra foot of space for my feet. You advocate putting your feet right at the very edge and hoping you don't lean the wrong way and fall off the cliff.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2016 1:35 pm
Posts: 110
RussellS wrote:
whosatthewheel wrote:
RussellS wrote:
J00P wrote:
On the rims I am not sure yet. I Did some reading and it

Yes. And a lot of people have climbed the Alps with a 39x27 cassette back when that was about the only road race option there was. Therefore, that is all you need. Never ever put a lower gear on your bike! But today lots of road race bikes use a 34x32 in the Alps. You are advocating zero margin. Take it right to the edge with absolutely no room for error or chance. Nothing extra. The asymmetric gives you a cushion, extra margin so you are not right at the edge. When I go up to the edge of the cliff, I prefer to have an extra foot of space for my feet. You advocate putting your feet right at the very edge and hoping you don't lean the wrong way and fall off the cliff.


The blurb about gear ratios is off topic and irrelevant.

You make it sound very dramatic, but there is no such problem. I am not sure what your experience is, but most if not all builders will tell you that an asymmetric rim is nice but not essential. If the OP can buy a robust asymmetric rim that fits his needs, then great, otherwise I would go for a robust but symmetric rim over an underengineered but asymmetric rim for his needs.

And that's all there is to it... nobody is standing on the top of a cliff, nobody is about to die... all is fine

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 21, 2016 12:59 pm
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Symmetric rim is ok if hub flanges are spaced respectively with offset

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