Older carbon tub rims - rebuild for 11 speed -worth it?
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I've got a set of older Reynolds 46's - the ones with the WI hubs that can't be converted to 11 speed. Contemplating throwing a cheap bitex or something in there - it's not like I do moon mileage on them, I might race 600km in a year. Anyone else still using carbon wheels of that kind of vintage - I guess 9-10 years old - and how much performance am I really giving away?
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Looks like wheels manufacturing no longer do the conversion cassette for shimano, only the campy version...
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How much room between the largest sprocket and the spokes? Get a 6800 casette machined 1.8mm to suit if there is enough room have done this a few times now. Throw the wheel in the 11s bike and shift to the largest sprocket in a stand carefully as it will probably want to jump into the spokes and check the clearance of the derailleur cage also.
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Edco monobloc 11 speed can be used on older 10 speed freehubs. A little pricy, and your choise to change the hub vs using this one could be biased by the actual rear hub condition of your WI.
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If they can be converted to Campy, you can run that cassette (11 speed), since the spacing is so close between Shimano/SRAM and Campy. They're interchangeable.
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Nefarious86 wrote:How much room between the largest sprocket and the spokes? Get a 6800 casette machined 1.8mm to suit if there is enough room have done this a few times now. Throw the wheel in the 11s bike and shift to the largest sprocket in a stand carefully as it will probably want to jump into the spokes and check the clearance of the derailleur cage also.
I've done this the other way around. machined the freehub body.
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55x11 - off to the gym now, then...
Thanks everyone - no perfect answer to this. If I mill a cassette I'll be gambling it won't foul the spokes, from what I can tell by reading around. Might have to get the micrometer out...
As much curious to find out - among all the wider wheels and toroidal profiles, - who's still riding older deep sections, and any perspectives on what's lost or gained. I've never ridden anything newer so I have nothing to compare them to - just the somewhat old fashioned belief that good stuff doesn't become bad stuff overnight.
Cheers,
Simon
Thanks everyone - no perfect answer to this. If I mill a cassette I'll be gambling it won't foul the spokes, from what I can tell by reading around. Might have to get the micrometer out...
As much curious to find out - among all the wider wheels and toroidal profiles, - who's still riding older deep sections, and any perspectives on what's lost or gained. I've never ridden anything newer so I have nothing to compare them to - just the somewhat old fashioned belief that good stuff doesn't become bad stuff overnight.
Cheers,
Simon
F45 wrote:glam2deaf wrote:^ Only 11-34 will work on a 10 speed freehub. Pretty useless for racing.
Put some 42-55 chainrings on there!
I'm into it. Though I did think about running an 11/32 to match a 55-42 on my tt bike. Gotta get up those hills.
I have older Reynolds 46's as well, with the WI LTA hubs (Campag) that, per WI, won't take 11 speed. They are great hubs, but 16/20, so they don't work with many rims.
I have 2014 Bora 35's (pre-wide rim) and 2016 Bora 50's (wide rim). The biggest advantage of the new technology is the braking. The Bora's with red pads brake much better than the older Reynolds with the yellow pads. Also, the Bora's seem stiffer. Frankly, I don't even ride the Reynolds these days even though one of my bikes is still 10 speed. When it comes to aerodynamics, I don't think I can tell the difference between the three.
I have 2014 Bora 35's (pre-wide rim) and 2016 Bora 50's (wide rim). The biggest advantage of the new technology is the braking. The Bora's with red pads brake much better than the older Reynolds with the yellow pads. Also, the Bora's seem stiffer. Frankly, I don't even ride the Reynolds these days even though one of my bikes is still 10 speed. When it comes to aerodynamics, I don't think I can tell the difference between the three.
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Yes, plenty of people. As long as there are no gouges, grooves or significant signs of wear, sticking a new hub in there should give you a few more years use. Just dismantle carefully. If it is the 20 spoke wheel, as above, they will let go with a ping if you do one spoke at a time, and *may* damage the rim.patchsurfer wrote: Contemplating throwing a cheap bitex or something in there - it's not like I do moon mileage on them, I might race 600km in a year. Anyone else still using carbon wheels of that kind of vintage - I guess 9-10 years old
Very very little.patchsurfer wrote: and how much performance am I really giving away?
Only issue might be finding a 20h hub and getting someone to build it up for you. (Or DIY it)
I'm in the midst of doing similar, but replacing the rim on an old pair of hubs (going from 26" to 29", with a 24 hole straight pull hub) it's a pain, but hopefully it means that i can get a few more years out of an immaculate £250 pair of hubs.