ChadMoore was much more active early on. Never heard back to my questions.
Second, many builders love the eyelets because it makes for easier lacing and spoke tension build up - the nipple turns on stainless steel (stronger + smoother) instead of scratching / having friction from the alloy of the rim.
We are 100% sure that an eyeleted rim is stronger and will last longer than a non-eyeleted rim. You can take that to the bank. There is a reason many other rim makers are not using eyelets. First, it's more expensive. Second, they don't have the technical ability.
Happy to field any comments or questions - thank you!
Thank you for coming here to discuss your new rim. It's definitely an intiguing option.
With regards to eyelets I think some of the information needs clarifying. It is my experience that SS eyelets are better when paired with brass nipples. I have found them to gall alloy nipples to the point they barely turn when up to tension. This is experienced even when using grease in between. I only use brass nipples at this point so it's worth noting that additional weight.
Eyelets are not guaranteed to be 100% stronger. Just look at your current Reflex rim. It's well known that this rim can't take modern tensions (120-130kfg) and even at the recommended tension, they are quite prone to premature cracking. There might be other factors in why they are prone to cracking, but the eyelets do not solve the problem in that case. I think it's safer to say you "can" make a rim stronger with eyelets.
I happen to like some rims with eyelets. Currently my favorite is the DT 440. I think the new Open Pro will be welcome competition to that rim offering a lighter weight (based on what has been quoted) and the Exalith treatment. One advantage that DT has is the assymetrical rear rim. Many current hubs have flange placement that results in pretty low left side tension resulting in a weaker rear wheel. The assymetric spoke holes help alleviate this issue and allows for more hubs to be built into durable wheels.
I appreciate that you are taking the time to study spoke tension and more importantly the rim/tire interface. Many companies do not study this in detail and end up with rims that lose a lot of tension when built up and used with tubeless tires. This drop in tension also greatly diminishes wheel durability. If you can come up with a rim that loses less tension, the recommended tension doesn't need to be as high.
In order to have a rim that will work with the majority of hubs out there it would be important to have a max tension at least 125kgf. For example, a Shimano 9000 hub with the right tension at 125kgf will have a resulting tension on the left side of under 60kgf which is barely acceptable. If your max tension is 110kgf you only end up with about 52kgf which will not hold up well over time. Combine that with a tension drop of about 10-15kgf (relatively conservative number) when a tubeless tire is mounted and you have a really bad setup that will constantly need truing without relying on a locking mechanism on the spoke threads.