2016 Campy Bora One 50 hub service trouble

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

I wish to service my rear hub and I ran into a problem. I watched the following video on how to service the hub. I loosened axle cap and preload adjuster on the non-drive side. According to the video the entire axle should drop out from the drive side (at 4:25 in the video). The problem I have is that the axle is stuck tight to the hub. I tried knocking the axle lightly with a rubber mallet without success. The weird part is that after I removed the preload adjuster and entire axle still feels snug as if the preload adjuster has no effect. Has anyone experienced the same problem? Should I use more force to remove the axle? Or is my Bora built differently than the one used in the video? Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yQcvLbJOW8

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

I just found and watched this video by Campagnolo. It also shows the axle should just slide out... :roll:

https://www.campagnolo.com/US/en/Support/complete_revision_of_campagnolo_wheels_hub

by Weenie


5 8 5
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by 5 8 5

Have you removed the split ring? You might have to prise it off. The vid shows it in place but not it's removal before the axle is removed.

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Ok. I watched the second video very closely and at 0:39 the axle just slides past the split ring. The split ring seems to sit on top of the cone and not attached to the axle. And I also found a pictorial instruction from Campy and it made no mention of removing the split ring.

I think the axle is stuck and it can be removed with some force. However I don't want to damage the bearings.

https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_72_Technical%20manual_wheels_assembly%20and%20refitting_rear_hub_Campagnolo_12-12.pdf

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Got it! One hard blow with a rubber mallet did the trick.

Boy, the grease in there is all black. I'm glad I took it apart. I used to have a Shimano C50 wheel and when I took that wheel apart the grease was a clean (a light green colored great) color!

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bikerjulio
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by bikerjulio

You just need a hard enough tap to move the spindle a little. Then the split ring can be pulled off easily.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

pdlpsher1
Posts: 1325
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
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by pdlpsher1

Well, now I have trouble taking the front hub apart :noidea:

I used two 5mm allen keys and to remove the end caps. But only one end cap came loose. Unfortunately it's the one opposite of the cone adjuster nut. On that end of the axle there are two flat spots where you can fit a 14mm open ended wrench to hold the axle, and apply pressure on the 5mm allen key on the opposite end. The problem is that the end cap is loc-tited to the axle and the open ended wrench is round off the soft aluminum axle. I tried to melt the loc-tite off using a soldering iron to no avail. So how do you disassemble the side with the cone adjuster nut when the end cap is so tight on the axle? When I looked at the Campy technical document it appears the older axles only had an end cap on one side. The newer Boras now have two end caps which has created this nightmare. Please help me!!!

5 8 5
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by 5 8 5

Use an adjustable wrench or a vice.

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Thanks. I thought about using a vise however I was concerned of damaging the soft aluminum axle.

I failed to understand the need to loc-tite the end caps at the factory :noidea:

5 8 5
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by 5 8 5

Obviously don't clamp it really tightly, just enough to stop it from rotating! Sounds like the adjustable wrench would be the best bet for you.

Your wrench is possibly worn or out of spec so another open-ended wrench may do the trick You just need to get a good fit on the flats.

Vibration causes bolts to loosen so loctite is used to stop it. It's only medium strength so it will come apart easily with the correct tools. No need to use heat!

pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Thanks. I'm also thinking of using my open ended wrench but add a piece of steel shim to take out the (small) slack. My adjustable wrench isn't good enough for the job, I think. The end cap is on really tight. It took a lot of torque to remove the other one.


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dj97223
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by dj97223

Perhaps you should go to a Campag shop before doing more damage. Perhaps Vecchio's in Boulder. There is a guy on the Paceline site, goes by OldPotato and lives in Boulder. Used to run Vecchio's. He is super knowledgeable about Campag and services Campag components out of his home.
“If you save your breath I feel a man like you can manage it. And if you don't manage it, you'll die. Only slowly, very slowly, old friend.”

pdlpsher1
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
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by pdlpsher1

dj97223 wrote:Perhaps you should go to a Campag shop before doing more damage. Perhaps Vecchio's in Boulder. There is a guy on the Paceline site, goes by OldPotato and lives in Boulder. Used to run Vecchio's. He is super knowledgeable about Campag and services Campag components out of his home.


Thanks. I wish I had seen your message earlier. Disaster struck! I rounded out the axle and now the axle is it not round anymore, and the end cap can not be fitted on. Thus my wheel is unridable. I called Campy Service U.S.A. and they referred to Jim at Vecchio's. Jim will give Campy a call and order me a new axle. On the regular campy hub there's only one end cap. On my wheel there are two. When you try to remove the end caps, if you are unlucky like me, the end cap on the wrong side comes off. And the only way to remove the other end cap is to use the machined flat spot on the axle. Campy has those end caps loc-tited so I don't know how anyone can remove the end cap without damaging the axle. Funny thing is that I had the exact same thing happen to me on another front wheel, the Shimano 9000 C50. When I spoke to Shimano the tech knew exactly what happened and why, and he sent me a new front axle under warranty. Campy Service U.S.A. had said my part won't be covered under warranty. Jim will speak to Campy U.S.A. so I'm curious as to what's the proper procedure that doesn't damage the axle. Thanks to all those who replied.

pdlpsher1
Posts: 1325
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
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by pdlpsher1

I just spoke to Jim at Vecchio's. Now I understood the problem. What I should have done is to put a box wrench in the machined flats WITHOUT having taken out the steel end cap. The steel end cap prevents the aluminum from be crushed and it gives support to the axle. When I watched the Campy video they showed the old style hub where there's only one end cap. On the Bora hubs there are two end caps. Expensive lesson learned!!!

pdlpsher1
Posts: 1325
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Location: CO

by pdlpsher1

I finally got the stuck end cap off. I had to drill two holes in the axle and used an Allen key to hold the axle tight. Ironically the stuck end cap didn't have any loc-tite, which is correct as this end cap is designed to be easily removable. The other end cap, the one that is supposed to stay on the axle, was loc-tited, but somehow was the one that loosened first when I undid both end caps using two 5mm Allen keys. This tells me that the removable end cap was torqued way too much by the factory...

I hope to get my replacement axle by tomorrow. I miss my wheel badly...

Here's a pic of the axle removed from the hub. I put a magnet by the ball bearings to demonstrate the bearings are ceramic. You can see the holes I drilled on one end of the axle.

Image


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by Weenie


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