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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 11:59 am 
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Location: Vienna Austria
Any experiences using carbon brake pads on alloy rims?

My wiggle & Reynolds blue pads seem to work ok on alloy, if there are no shavings embedded do you think I can just leave them on when I switch wheels?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:08 pm 
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Location: Athens, Greece
No, you should never leave the same pads when switching wheels. Filings from the alu rims, attached to your pads, will definitely harm the carbon surface.

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Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:08 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:26 pm 
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You only need one shard to mangle your carbon rims.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 2:00 pm 
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Location: Vienna Austria
Marin wrote:
if there are no shavings embedded


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Marin wrote:
if there are no shavings embedded


assuming standard calipers not hidden away, for the time/effort to check there's really nothing stuck in any of the four pads, you can swap them and not have the concern


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 6:39 pm 
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Why would you do that? Due to laziness?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 7:05 pm 
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Location: patra greece
Just clean it . My TT bike has the brakes down and it is a difficult to make the change (I have to remove the crank) so I have the carbon pads and when I want to put my disk wheel just clean the pads

in watt mode

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 7:44 pm 
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Marin wrote:
Marin wrote:
if there are no shavings embedded
Really. Even scrubbing and/or filing pads down leaves shards of aluminum in the pad sometimes. And takes far longer than swapping pads.

And what sort of moron designs a bike that you actually need to remove the crank to change brake pads?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Location: patra greece
Shiv TT small size

in watt mode

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 8:19 pm 
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carbon pads are more expensive. what's the point? They might stop better, but were never designed for alloy wheels. Can only imagine unintended consequences.

http://www.visiontechusa.com/brake-pads ... on-wheels/

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 9:09 pm 
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miltmaster3 wrote:
Shiv TT small size
what a mess. Someone needs a talking to!

Serious hat on for a moment.
Maybe drill a small hole in the chainring so you can get to the brake shoe bolt and release the pad. Put it next to or opposite the crank arm (lowest stress IIRC) but either way, a small neat hole in an aero ring won't make any noticeable difference. And it looks like it should be inside the inner diameter of the inner ring as well.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 11:43 pm 
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Posts: 139
you can remove the brake pad and shoe from shiv without removing the crank. Just change the alen bolt with a standard 12mm polygon head.

I would never keep the carbon pads for different types of wheelsets. Cleaning pads do not remove very small aluminium shards.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 4:50 am 
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Exactly! Aluminum shards are pushed deep into the brake pads, not visible to naked eye. Long story short, you are damaging you carbon brake track on your carbon wheels.


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_________________
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.

:arrow: CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
:arrow: OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder

:nospamhere:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 8:31 am 
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gmakris wrote:
you can remove the brake pad and shoe from shiv without removing the crank. Just change the alen bolt with a standard 12mm polygon head.
it was actually the small pad retaining screw I was thinking of


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 4:53 pm 
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Location: Islip, NY
Just ditch the retaining screw and don't try to use the brakes while riding backwards! :mrgreen:

You probably have to adjust the brake pad contact from wheel to wheel anyway so you might as well swap the pads.

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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 4:53 pm 


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