Build recommendations for Powertap GS (and Stan's Alpha 400)

[LouisN]

I just finished a Powertap GS build. The NDS tension is very low, so I would recommend go with big spokes and stiff rim at your weight.
Kinlin XR31T is a very good suggestion IMO.

NOTE: I had to cut 2mm off my spokes based on the Powertap chart. And I heard it happened to a few other builders too.
Make shure you get the lenght right.

Louis

[Johnny Rad]

Who likes / dislikes the idea of Sapim Laser spokes laced to a GS straight pull hub and Reynolds Attack clincher rim? Are they too dainty?

I think an Aero spoke will be more fiddly for truing, so I'm looking at round spokes. Am I mistaken?

I'm 73-74kgs. My Reynolds Attacks use straight pull spokes front and rear, as built by the factory.

[NovemberDave]

You'd have a MUCH easier time with bladed spokes. I just flat out refuse to build straight pull hubs with round spokes. Get bladed spokes and a spoke holder and you're way better off. Keeping straight pull round spokes from spinning is a be-yotch, and then compound that with the windup you get with Lasers. Just do blades.

[Johnny Rad]

Thx for the advice. Appreciate it.

You'd have a MUCH easier time with bladed spokes.

[kervelo]

I wouldn't do that build. The hub doesn't build up to a very stiff wheel...

You wrote that the hub does not build up to a very stiff wheel: is this just the Powertap GS rear hub or is it common for all DT Swiss straight pull hubs? I am asking because I have been planning another wheel build, using DT Swiss hubs.

[ergott]

The DT Swiss rear straight pull hubs also have poor geometry. The fronts are okay and I've used them. I flat out refuse to use the straight pull rears, especially when their flanged counterparts are better (albeit not ideal).

[icenutter]

My new wheel arrived and I've been for my first ride! In the end I went for a Kinlin XR31t, 24h offset with Sapim CX-rays. Very happy. I got it made by DCR wheels in the UK, who I can recommend too.

958g with 10 speed spacer, stans tape, and without skewer (sorry about the crap photo).

Thanks everyone for the help.

[JeffChen]

To Powertap GS hub,any heavy rims is the stone of Sisyphus, you need both eccentric rims and heavy spokes,the best choice is carbon eccentric rims.

[UpFromOne]

The DT Swiss rear straight pull hubs also have poor geometry. The fronts are okay and I've used them. I flat out refuse to use the straight pull rears, especially when their flanged counterparts are better (albeit not ideal).

Good insight there. I agree, except that the front straight-pull flanges on the disc variant are less than ideal, being too close together (i.e. short center-to-flange measurements).

[UpFromOne]

I just finished a Powertap GS build. The NDS tension is very low, so I would recommend go with big spokes and stiff rim at your weight.
Kinlin XR31T is a very good suggestion IMO.

NOTE: I had to cut 2mm off my spokes based on the Powertap chart. And I heard it happened to a few other builders too.
Make shure you get the lenght right.

Louis

Powertap says the spoke lengths should be the same for both sides of this hub. Were they?

[kervelo]

I did not have any issues with the spoke lengths. I used the same length both on DS and NDS and the length was calculated using the formula from the spoke length chart. I used Sapim CX Ray spokes.

[LouisN]

I just finished a Powertap GS build. The NDS tension is very low, so I would recommend go with big spokes and stiff rim at your weight.
Kinlin XR31T is a very good suggestion IMO.

NOTE: I had to cut 2mm off my spokes based on the Powertap chart. And I heard it happened to a few other builders too.
Make shure you get the lenght right.

Louis

Powertap says the spoke lengths should be the same for both sides of this hub. Were they?

Yes, they were.

I had to cut all of them.

Louis