KINLIN XR31 flex?

[dudemanppl]

FWIW, you should be able to run 75/80 PSI front/rear with no issues at all. I run my 23mm (25mm actual meaurement) tires at 65/70 at 58kg and have never pinched.

[DamonRinard]

Hi addict,

Only 2-3 mm on each side now? Sounds like you had them really really close.

Shimano recommends 1.5 to 2 mm per side,


But as mimason suggested, I like plenty of gap, maybe double Shimano's numbers. For me, it puts most of the braking action in a range of finger position where I have more hand power and fine control. As long as the lever doesn't *quite* bottom out.

Not familiar with SwissStop salmons. Maybe KoolStop salmons? Since you asked, I always liked Shimano pads on aluminum rims.

[addictR1]

Damon, yea it's the koolstop salmons. its rubbing on my rear brake on my BMC TMR02 which is a direct mount brake. if i add more gap, the SRAM red felt mushy.

you mean something like this? https://goo.gl/Bu2vhP

[DamonRinard]

Yep, that's the compound.

All cartridges fit BR7800,7700,6600,6500,R600,5600,5500, and 5501
R55C2 compound performs well in dry conditions, tends to be low noise, highly resistant to wear in rainy conditions
R55C+1 shoe thickness is 1mm thicker than R55C
R55C compound performs well in dry conditions and tends to be low noise, wears in rainy conditions

I usually used the R55C+1 (1 mm thicker), but that was in the days before wider rims. That or the R55C (without the +1) would be my choice today. I don't ride a lot in rain, so the "wears in rainy conditions" has never made itself known to me in use.

Now I'm curious about the R55C2 compound, sounds pretty good too! I'd give it a try (if I were buying, which I'm not).

[addictR1]

Damon, i found some Shimano R55C3 instead. not sure if that's even better than R55C2?

[bm0p700f]

I have at least 3mm between pads and rim bit i use a single pivot brake onhe rear . Closer is pointless and leads to disapoimtment.

[F45]

Too few noodly spokes. Swap them with the Aero 494 and your problem will be mollified. You can also swap the rear rim with the offset version for a better bracing angle to help the spokes keep the rim from deflecting at the top.

[WinterRider]

Too few noodly spokes. Swap them with the Aero 494 and your problem will be mollified. You can also swap the rear rim with the offset version for a better bracing angle to help the spokes keep the rim from deflecting at the top.

Be interesting .. to see hard objective data.. run on a machine setup under load .. how different combo's
flex... anyone done this? Links??

[bm0p700f]

I have bilt many 24 spoke rears with this rim even with cx rays the resulting wheel does not flex much.

Has not it been established earlier the op's isse was his pads where too close to the rim. Brake pad rubbing is not just influnced by lateral wheel stiffness. There are other fators i dont fully understand. Rear triangle stiffness must play a part.

[Marin]

Guys, tension does not affect stiffness, this has been proven many times.

Unless spokes are complete slack, adding more tension will not change stiffness at all.

The only way to get your rear stiffer is to use heavier spokes on the drive side.

[bm0p700f]

also thicker spokes on the nds works too but there is no way that is needed if the pads are set a proper distance from the rim.

The a 24 spoke rear with is rim and a decent hub (maybe thats the issue) and thin spokes is stiff enough even for a masher. The problem lies elsewhere.

Marin is right adding more tension wont help.

[Marin]

True, I recently built a shallow carbon rim rear wheel with 24 *thin* spokes and expected it to rub, but it doesn't, and I'm almost 80kg currently. I don't run my brake pads close to the rim though because I like to have some lever travel before the brakes grab.

[addictR1]

Maybe my issue was due to the hubs? I've widen the brake pads more and now no more rubbing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[pyf]

Guys, tension does not affect stiffness, this has been proven many times.

Unless spokes are complete slack, adding more tension will not change stiffness at all.

The only way to get your rear stiffer is to use heavier spokes on the drive side.

And... non drive side ! Also proven many times adding thicker spokes only to drive side does very little to the lateral stiffness of the wheel and even create a bit of imbalance ! Having thinner spokes on the NDS only does one thing : if tension is low there is a bit more stretch in a thinner spoke for a given tension reducing the chance of it going slack. Don't do it (differentiation spokes sections DS/NDS) for stiffness, it is not the answer !

[Hovis]

Has anyone experienced a pulsing / juddering from their XR31's? I've had this with 3 out of 4 wheels built with these rim's. I can't figure out what's causing it, wheels are perfectly true so I know it's not that. Tried different pad compounds, toeing in the pads, not toeing in the pads and had no luck. Tried in multiple bikes, same story.