Tubulars & Sealant
Moderator: robbosmans
Having had good experiences with Vittoria Pit Stop prompted thought along a preemptive approach. That was focused upon reading of a new product from Stan's noted below:
http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Race-Seala ... P1977.aspx
Understanding this sort of product is made for tubeless does anyone have any experience using this sort of product (Stan;s, Orange, etc) in tubulars?
Thanks.
http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Race-Seala ... P1977.aspx
Understanding this sort of product is made for tubeless does anyone have any experience using this sort of product (Stan;s, Orange, etc) in tubulars?
Thanks.
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Use the search function please
Kayrehn wrote:Use the search function please
Unlikely, it's a brand new product.
I've had a good hunt and can't find anyone selling it in the UK yet.
My experience with Stan's Road Tubeless is mixed, in generally it does a great job of ensuring small holes don't create a leak however if the holes over about 2mm the pressure is high enough to force the air out quicker than it can seal. I don't use tubs so can't comment on whether the same issue arises in tubs.
Seems they've added more crystals into the solution of this new 'Race' version, in the event of a bigger hole the larger number of crystals block the hole more quickly.
Be great to hear if anyone has had a chance to try it yet either in tubs or tubeless
Yeah, it will clog up your valve stem eventually, but the stem is (usually) replaceable. The problem with tubulars is you can't change the tube itself, so in a year or so the sealant is dried up into a huge booger.
I'll use sealant in latex clincher tubes, but they get tossed every year.
They are discussing this issue in the tacked thread about tubulars.
I'll use sealant in latex clincher tubes, but they get tossed every year.
They are discussing this issue in the tacked thread about tubulars.
The instructions guide says not tubular compatible
@beatle: You must remove the valve core first, right? Can't imagine trying to squeeze Orange Seal through the valve core itself.
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- spookyload
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There is a test I just read online about using sealant in latex and butyl tubes. It used all the popular flavors, and made holes ranging from .7mm to 2.2mm. They all sealed, though latex tubes tended to seal faster. Only OrangeSeal was able to seal the hole they produced that was through both sidewalls. I carry a 2oz bottle of Orange Seal with me when I ride tubulars now. That is first shot before putting the spare on. I actually use one of the Stan's 2oz bottles with the Orange Seal in it since it is small and the tip does a good job of preventing mess.
I think the one you saw was on slowtwitch? Orange Seal was in 2nd place behind the Bontrager TLR stuff. I've been using the TLR with some Schwalbe Pro One's and it's been really, really good.
- spookyload
- Posts: 1048
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:47 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
It was on slowtwitch. The only thing I remember from the test is they all worked better in latex tubes.
- wheelsONfire
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I've used it in tubulars. Both Schwalbe Doc Blue and Stans. Yupp, you may have to change valve.
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Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
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Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
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