Contradicting tubular glueing instructions: Campagnolo & Con
Moderator: robbosmans
@shonanmike... Have you actually used the "Magic Mastik" yet? If so, tell us how it's going. And have you had occasion to remove a tire glued with it. How bout carrying a spare tubular, can you pre glue it and have it bond if you have to change it on the road? Tell us more.
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So what I did so far is put 2 thin layers on both tire and rim, with 12 hours in-between, and tonight I will put one more layer on the tire and put the tires on. I hope it works out well, and I don't have any tire roll.
I am surprised at how fast the glue dries, during the 5 minutes it takes me to finish a layer, the beginning of the layer already feels almost dry - just a bit tacky...
I am surprised at how fast the glue dries, during the 5 minutes it takes me to finish a layer, the beginning of the layer already feels almost dry - just a bit tacky...
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sugarkane wrote:Every seen a pro mechanic wait 12 hours between coats?
40 min/ glue is dry to touch is plenty. I can glue a wheel ( 1 dry rim coat, 1-2 tire coats and 1 wet rim mounting coat ) in an hour and it's good to ride in the morning.. I have used tubs exclusively for over 6 years until I started building wheels a year ago and I glue tubs for other people for moneis..
Never had a drama or a rolled tub..
I think people over think it. The most important thing is that you or your customer tests the bond before using it. Pump the tire to 60psi.. And then try and get it off the rim.. If it an't going no where it's good to go
This, don't overthink tubular gluing it's very far from rocket science
I have to disagree @Boysa..
At 6psi it should be very very hard to to get the tire off if the glue is good. It should be hard at 0 psi if you can pull the thre away from the rim with 60psi or pressure in the tire then it's not safe to ride.
At 6psi it should be very very hard to to get the tire off if the glue is good. It should be hard at 0 psi if you can pull the thre away from the rim with 60psi or pressure in the tire then it's not safe to ride.
I'm also for the new magic mastik glue, incredible easy to use, lighter and should be actually stronger/more thermal resistant then classic tubular cement. I have to admit that i don't carry pre-glued tubular as a spare as i use syringe with sealant to fix punctures, so i'm not sure if/how it would work with the magic mastik. But if you don't plan to do that, then i can't think of any reason why not to use magic mastik.
@sugarkane: No problem, we can certainly disagree! To each his own. You can do it your way, I'll do it mine. As long as we are both satisfied with the result, I'd say we are succeeding.
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Lightweenie wrote:tonight I will put one more layer on the tire and put the tires on.
I am surprised at how fast the glue dries, during the 5 minutes it takes me to finish a layer, the beginning of the layer already feels almost dry - just a bit tacky...
I'd suggest putting the wet glue on the rim, not the tire basetape, right before you mount it. Glue on the rim it is easy to see you have a continuous and even coat of glue on the entire rim. No gaps. And when you mount the tire, you grab and stretch and pull on the tire so it goes around the rim. If you have fresh glue on the basetape, you will get the glue on your hands because you are grabbing the tire. And likely you will touch the side of the rim when mounting, and get glue on the side of the rim. And everything else.
+1, and don't overthink it. You want enough glue on the base tape so that it's not totally absorbed. Other than that, its just contact cement. Inflated tires dont roll off. Flats will.
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Thanks,
So I am done gluing, I put the last layer only on the rim. Centering worked much better on the second wheel I did, on the first one I had to spend a lot of time recentering the tire. I am looking forward to try them out.
So I am done gluing, I put the last layer only on the rim. Centering worked much better on the second wheel I did, on the first one I had to spend a lot of time recentering the tire. I am looking forward to try them out.
@fogman: so far i only had one puncture on tubulars (24mm Vittoria Corsa SL), which happened after ~1700km on the front wheel, i unscrewed the valve and inserted 2-3ml of stan's notubes sealant which i always carry with me in a syringe, turned the wheel so that the puncture was at the lowest point and waited ~5 minutes. It was fixed after that, even after i came home and pumped the tubular to 8,5bar to test if the fix is permanent, zero problems since then (almost 1000km ridden on wheels after puncture).
A couple of Cat 1 crit racers watched me struggle for 20 minutes to get a tire off of a rim one day and asked me how much glue I used. When I told them 2 coats on the rim and 2 on the tire they laughed their a$$es off, said something like "Geez! You're not gluing tiles onto the space shuttle!" and then showed me how they did it. 1 coat on the basetape, 1 on the wheel. Let dry to touch. Mount. Air up to 120lbs.
After a little practice I can replace a tire on the side of the road in 5 minutes. I wouldn't want to ride a crit on a newly glued tire. But it only takes a few minutes for a glued tire to set. And for that matter, I have ridden a crit on a tire which had been glued up less than 30 minutes prior. Like was said above, don't overthink it.
After a little practice I can replace a tire on the side of the road in 5 minutes. I wouldn't want to ride a crit on a newly glued tire. But it only takes a few minutes for a glued tire to set. And for that matter, I have ridden a crit on a tire which had been glued up less than 30 minutes prior. Like was said above, don't overthink it.
For crit racing, make sense on 1 layers each then slap, but not on regular riding imo. If you get flat on the road, you dont want to peel the tire and find no left over glue on rim for the spare to stick to, especially when you have to go down mountain pass. Anyway +1 on fast method. I used to follow the at least over night method to dry, but now 1 layer each, dry for 1 hr, then slap another layer each dry for 1 hr, last layer on rim right before mounting then pump 120 psi, ride in the morning. I used mastik, and masik only.
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sugarkane wrote:Every seen a pro mechanic wait 12 hours between coats?
40 min/ glue is dry to touch is plenty. I can glue a wheel ( 1 dry rim coat, 1-2 tire coats and 1 wet rim mounting coat ) in an hour and it's good to ride in the morning.. I have used tubs exclusively for over 6 years until I started building wheels a year ago and I glue tubs for other people for moneis..
Never had a drama or a rolled tub..
I think people over think it. The most important thing is that you or your customer tests the bond before using it. Pump the tire to 60psi.. And then try and get it off the rim.. If it an't going no where it's good to go
This. All this 12hr waiting is for fat guys who doesn't want to ride.
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