Tubeless Valves

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JBV
Posts: 175
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:18 am

by JBV

Is there a "best" tubeless valve for road rims, or it it rim specific? I've used Stans & American Classic, the former wear out pretty quickly, the latter seem to require a ton of tightening to seal up. Used a DT yesterday (on a Pacenti rim) and it seemed decent. Are there other experiences or recommendations?

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dvdslw
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 3:13 am

by dvdslw

I've been running tubeless for quite some time now and have had the best luck with Shimano, Hutchinson, and Easton tubeless valve stems. Actually, I can say that I've never had one fail. I did however have a Reynolds 60mm valve stem fail on a set of Tubeless Assaults when I over tightened one trying to seal a leak.

Geoff
Posts: 5395
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Location: Canada

by Geoff

I would recommend that you stick with valves with replaceable cores. It improves tubeless significantly to use a sealant, which works much better if you can shoot it straight in the tire through a valve stem with the core removed. I have had good luck with the Stans product and Vittoria cores.

dvdslw
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 3:13 am

by dvdslw

JBV wrote:Is there a "best" tubeless valve for road rims, or it it rim specific? I've used Stans & American Classic, the former wear out pretty quickly, the latter seem to require a ton of tightening to seal up. Used a DT yesterday (on a Pacenti rim) and it seemed decent. Are there other experiences or recommendations?


Where is it not sealing up? Is it the core or the base?

JBV
Posts: 175
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:18 am

by JBV

dvdslw wrote:Where is it not sealing up? Is it the core or the base?


The base. Maybe I'll take a picture of the chewed up Stans valve. The DT I replaced it with seems to be working well so far. I use American Classics on another 2 sets of wheels and they seem to work OK.

I'm sorry, from the responses I apparently assumed some things were self-evident. I use sealant and removeable-core stems, and I know how to tighten the cores when I put them back in. I guess I was hoping others had experienced some of the wear and sealing issues I had, and there was a valve that addressed them.

I really don't want to test every different tubeless valve on the market myself, but that may wind up happening. I can see why road tubeless is so slow to gain acceptance, despite its other advantages. The average consumer/rider wants a plug & play setup.

JBV
Posts: 175
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:18 am

by JBV

oshuh wrote:i would like to recommend using pipe-sealing tape between core valves....


Thank you for this recommendation, I should have clarified the leaking was from the base of the valve stem, the rubber grommet not sealing up properly against the rim. The valve core is fine.

mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

Are you finishing the valve hole on the rim?
Just taking the edge off with a small file pays dividends.

JBV
Posts: 175
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:18 am

by JBV

mattr wrote:Are you finishing the valve hole on the rim?
Just taking the edge off with a small file pays dividends.


I'll give that a try, thanks.

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FIJIGabe
Posts: 2241
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

The best valves I used while riding tubeless road were Orange Seal valves. They come with rubber o-rings to prevent damage to the rim (and also allows you to tighten the valve more, preventing sealant from leaking).

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jeffy
Posts: 1325
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 11:51 pm

by jeffy

FIJIGabe wrote:They come with rubber o-rings to prevent damage to the rim


i noticed that schwalbe valves also come with o-rings.
Dumb question but does the o-ring go between the locknut and the rim, or inside the rim?

edit: a quick google turned up the answer

Image

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