I got a pair of Chinese clinchers last year (38mm,I forgot which seller, I think carbon cycle). Took the wheels to the French alps. It fared fine and considering I held onto my brakes at times while descending. The result was some melted brake pads that stuck on the brake track, but the rims were still ride-able.
I think depending on your use it should be fine. I live in an area where there's a lot of rollers but since I'm very familiar with the hills, I don't have to hold onto my brakes much.
Question to those who will build their own wheels:
Does it matter on how wide your hubs are? Or do the rims and hubs have to be "compatible"?
I had some custom rims done before with some Kinlin rims and Super light hubs. They're still going strong especially the hubs. They've been faultless after 4 years. The rims have a bit of wobble but nothing serious. That weenie build was about 1350g.
Chinese Clincher- Choice
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MattSoutherden
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dmulligan wrote:I decided to go for 2x55mm in part for aesthetics and in part because they will still be lighter than my current set of 2012 Wiliams System 30x wheels. Next decision: WI T11 hub set or Tune Mag170 and Mig70. ~$92 more for 98g less, though I haven't factored in shipping yet.
WI are totally bomb-proof. Bearings have super light load capacity, Ti freehub body. Good freehub. Great hubs
Tune are more of the weenie choice. I've not had a 170, but I've run a mig70 front for years.
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dmulligan wrote:I decided to go for 2x55mm in part for aesthetics and in part because they will still be lighter than my current set of 2012 Wiliams System 30x wheels. Next decision: WI T11 hub set or Tune Mag170 and Mig70. ~$92 more for 98g less, though I haven't factored in shipping yet.
Did you get these yet?
Im wondering how they set-up for tubeless. Im considering building a set myself with some disc hubs.
5DII wrote:anyone know if these/seller are reliable?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644540171?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I've heard a few bad things about diy-bike actually.
shlammed wrote:Did you get these yet?
Im wondering how they set-up for tubeless. Im considering building a set myself with some disc hubs.
I've ordered them and I think they should be shipping them out early next week. I should have them in my grubby mitts in about 10 to 14 days.
Once I have them, how can I answer your question? I've not investigated tubeless yet so my understanding of tubeless setup is very limited. All I can tell you now that the nipple holes are drilled right through the rim bed so you will need a couple wraps of Stan's rim tape.
g32ecs wrote:Question to those who will build their own wheels:
Does it matter on how wide your hubs are? Or do the rims and hubs have to be "compatible"?
It doesn't matter.
Hub axle width is determined by your frame (standard road is 100mm front, 130mm rear).
Flange spacing varies some between hubs, but the advantages and drawbacks remain the same for all rims.
Wide DS flange spacing can result in derailleur-spoke contact though no one makes hubs that won't provide an adequate safety margin with normal lacing patterns. Wide NDS flange spacing increases wheel lateral stiffness at the cost of lower tension on the NDS spokes.
dmulligan wrote:shlammed wrote:Did you get these yet?
Im wondering how they set-up for tubeless. Im considering building a set myself with some disc hubs.
I've ordered them and I think they should be shipping them out early next week. I should have them in my grubby mitts in about 10 to 14 days.
Once I have them, how can I answer your question? I've not investigated tubeless yet so my understanding of tubeless setup is very limited. All I can tell you now that the nipple holes are drilled right through the rim bed so you will need a couple wraps of Stan's rim tape.
With tubeless tires on real tubeless rims they should fit tightly on the bead after they've been inflated and then deflated. I suppose reasoning is so you can stop before crashing if you get a flat. some alloy wheels even "pop" into place when you inflate them tubeless.
Received my Yoeleo wheels today
2 business days to process, 5 business days delivered
38mm clincher, 23mm width
20/24
SL Pro hubs
3k weave
1405g actual weight w/ no rim tape (quoted as 1383 +- 15g, so it's over about 27g which I expected)
Looks like it was well built. Some pinging when I mounted the tires (no idea what it was, but I read some reviews before and they experienced it but they said it goes away) and slightly out of true about 1mm>
I did a test ride and it felt great. No, I'm not one of those newbs that will claim they gained "1-3mph", but since I'm coming off from some 46mm deep wheels or my training 2000g wheels, this felt like a compromise. I had the same depth last year and I was sad to let it go.
I think if I paid $100 less I'd be happier, but that's not to say I'm not happy at all.
2 business days to process, 5 business days delivered
38mm clincher, 23mm width
20/24
SL Pro hubs
3k weave
1405g actual weight w/ no rim tape (quoted as 1383 +- 15g, so it's over about 27g which I expected)
Looks like it was well built. Some pinging when I mounted the tires (no idea what it was, but I read some reviews before and they experienced it but they said it goes away) and slightly out of true about 1mm>
I did a test ride and it felt great. No, I'm not one of those newbs that will claim they gained "1-3mph", but since I'm coming off from some 46mm deep wheels or my training 2000g wheels, this felt like a compromise. I had the same depth last year and I was sad to let it go.
I think if I paid $100 less I'd be happier, but that's not to say I'm not happy at all.
What's the current thinking on 20mm carbon clinchers? I don't see many people offering them. Light-bicycle offer 24mm at around the same weight as the few 20mm wheelsets I see offered (1200-1400g). Do they give a reasonable weight drop and are they safe?
Sorry, I meant 20mm deep. Light-bicycle have been trying to offload some wider rims (and 25mm deep) which they claim are stronger but only around 80g heavier. With all the constant talk of the newer rims being stronger and the older rims being talked down as if they don't trust them, it makes me suspicious.
How much harder is it to DIY build a set of deep carbon rims? I've built lots of standard 32 hole wheels and they've always stayed true and lasted years and years.
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AJS914 wrote:How much harder is it to DIY build a set of deep carbon rims? I've built lots of standard 32 hole wheels and they've always stayed true and lasted years and years.
It's actually easier. Deepsection carbon rims are very stiff. And you almost only need to get to the right tension and then make some minor adjustments. I'm building my carbonwheels a little bit faster than alloy rims. But that could also be because of the fewer spokes.
