Why choose a brand name hub over an OEM?

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synthesis
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by synthesis

Anyone that has experience with the Powerway R36 straight pull hubs?

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Miller
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by Miller

ultimobici wrote:Hope do Campag 11 compatible disc hubs that will outlast any novatec any day.


Well thank you for the info that Hope now do 11sp Campag, they never used to, but I don't know why you need to sound so irritated about it.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Hope out last novatec in what way. Cartridge bearings can be replaced time and time again. If you use the same INA bearings in a Novatec disc brake hub they will probably last as long not that anyone complains about the bearing life the D771/D772 hubs as it is long. Hope products are nice and they have great brand and make fine hubs, brakes e.t.c. They do offer spares for there older products and have excellent customer service. That is what makes Hope hub worth the cost not the fact they superior to a novatec disc brake hub. After all they are hubs of very similar construction with the main difference being the way the pawls/spring system works in the different hubs.

Persoanlly the cost of Novatec hub is very appealing for what you get - a good hub. Shimano CX-75 hubs are also excellent.

An eariler poster mentioned that shimano bearing cups are replaceable, I know they are but have you tried sourcing spares. Madison don't sell them and to my knowledge they are not a spare part that is sold. Hense being replaceable is rather accademic.

mattr
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by mattr

bm0p700f wrote:An eariler poster mentioned that shimano bearing cups are replaceable, I know they are but have you tried sourcing spares. Madison don't sell them and to my knowledge they are not a spare part that is sold. Hense being replaceable is rather accademic.
Just needs a little lateral thinking. The cups are common across a large number of shimano hub models. Buy the cheapest hub that uses that part number. And cannibalize it. You'll get a spare axle, cones, cups, bearings, spacers, some seals and possibly a freehub. And a skewer.

Only falls down on XTR and DA, as these are unique as far as i can remember.

You might be able to source cones from one of the German retailers, they seem to hold a much larger selection of parts.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Or take care of your hub and it's not a problem. Beside by the time cup wear becomes a problem cones need changing, freehub is dodgy, rim is worn essentially time for a new wheel.

Also point to me were shimano publish there part numbers for the bearing cups because they don't (or at least on the parts numbers docs they are not listed), it is not a spare they make or supply to anyone even the germans.

Valbrona
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by Valbrona

Miller wrote:Of late for my occasional wheelbuilding I've taken to using Novatec ... Only issue I've had so far is that a front hub bearing seized in the interminable rain we had last winter. It would be useful to be able to replace cartridge bearings myself. What tools does one actually need to do that?


Remove each of the end caps from the axle. Tap one end of the axle to remove one cartridge bearing - axle has shoulders on it. Re-install axle and tap to remove the other bearing. Installation of new bearings require some kind of suitable device to use as a drift, like a socket of a suitable size to match the OD of the bearing.

Alternatively, once the two end caps have been removed from the axle you could just carefully remove the bearing seals and clean/re-grease to save you the trouble of replacing the bearings.

mattr
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by mattr

bm0p700f wrote:Also point to me were shimano publish there part numbers for the bearing cups
It's at least 15 years since i needed to actually go through the process of swapping a cup (or cone) so i have absolutely no idea where the part numbers are published now, they used to be on the exploded drawings. But as you say, the hubs just go on for ever, well, until the whole wheel is generally beyond economic repair.

I know they were still replaceable on 10 speed hubs, i dismantled a destroyed (corrosion and rim wear) ultegra about 3 months ago.

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Miller
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by Miller

Valbrona wrote: Installation of new bearings require some kind of suitable device to use as a drift, like a socket of a suitable size to match the OD of the bearing.


Thanks, removal sounds easy enough, replacement depends on having a suitable drift... which for now I don't.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

your old bearing?

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HermesSport
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by HermesSport

synthesis wrote:Anyone that has experience with the Powerway R36 straight pull hubs?

Image


Power-Way's rear hubs used to have pervasive issues with their drive rings cracking, I don't know if that's been resolved.

Ultimately, a real with most Taiwanese hubs is one of axle/bearing size, which both causes issues with bearing life, and makes the wheel less stiff than one with their bracing angles ought to be.

Everyone makes a knock off of the American Classic Micro58, right down to the RC car bearings. Some rear hubs are using 15mm alloy axles now, which is a start, but they'll still frequently use really tiny 6802 bearings, which aren't big enough to last, or transmit load to the axle. Rear hub bearing spacing typically isn't ideal, either.

Bracing angles have gotten better, but the whole wheel won't ride as well as one built with more robust hubs, because now you've got a very stiff structure (the hub shell as connected to the rim), riding on some very small ball bearings, and small, flexy axles. Flex in the axle aggravates bearing wear, as well. Replacing bearings too often ultimately wears out your hub shell, as the forces involved in pushing them in expands the bearing bore until they start to creak, etc.
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