Disc wheel woes

[sadisticnoob]

So a couple of months back, I bought a old school HED alu rim disc wheel,

getting it to work was a PITA, the hub was abit tight and cant spin well, cant put the casette too tight or it will become a 10 speed fixie.

does anyone know if my disc wheel is fine ???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZD8FmK ... NqCv0rKOCw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_VGDF7 ... NqCv0rKOCw

[Phill P]

doesn't seem to be the most true, but shouldn't be an issue. As for the tightness, have you tried new bearings? The old ones might have too much play so when you tighten it up the tolerances are out. But really you only need to tighten a hub enough to remove slackness laterally when fitted to the bike, any more and you are going to load up the bearings and increase drag.

[Valbrona]

1/ If it is out of true there is not a great deal you can do with it.

2/ Try some of those adhesive weights to balance out the weight distribution a little.

3/ Get a cassette lockring wcich is shallower than your existing one, like Token. Sometimes a lockring can bottom out on a bearing cover turning the hub into a fixie, like you say.

4/ I don't know this wheel but if the bearings are tight I am presuming there is no means of fine adjustment. In such cases you adjust by knocking/pushing the bearings out a little, like with Novatec. If the axle has shoulders either side this will not be a problem - gentle tap with a soft mallet.

5/ You can't really establish trueness in a wobbly bike stand.

[jekyll man]

I'm more concerned about:
a- your shorts
b- QR tightened in the wrong direction ie against the cam


HED hubs used to be shockingly poor.
Pull the cassette off, and try to ascertain if its the freehub thats gummy, or the actual hub bearings and go from there.

FWIW i've seen worse run out on discs than that

[BobDopolina]

Pull the freehub and coat the water seals with a bit of grease. Put it back together and give each end of the axle a solid wrap with a WOODEN or RUBBER mallet.

[sadisticnoob]

sorry bout the pants, its like super hot over here (>33 deg C in the day)

i pulled out the threaded axle, but cant seem to find a way to remove the freehub out







not too sure if im missing a part on the axle, (I still have one more of the silver spacer) but the bearings feel abit gritty when i tighten the axle and spin the wheel

[mattr]

Do you mean "tighten", or adjust properly, taking out any play?

[Valbrona]

Now that the axle is removed try sticking a long reach hex wrench into the freehub. It is my assumption that the freehub body is held on by a hex nut, but I am not sure what size HED use. And it has to be a long reach hex wrench to get proper engagement. Could be 10, 11, 12mm or even larger ... and expect it to be on tight.

A few freehub bodies are released from the non-drive side.

[sadisticnoob]

just an update,

i have finally managed to fix the wheel, the cause of the wobbling was play on the bearings. I tried to remove the free hub totally but i couldnt cause my 10 was too big and 8 was too small

during the past week or so, this wheel taught me alot on the inner workings of the hub which is a peculiarity because NDS uses cartridge bearing while the Drive side uses loose ball bearings.

I broke the dust seal while extracting the loose ball bearings so I guess i will have to service the wheel more often.

couldnt get grade 5 ball bearings from the bearing shops here so had to settle for grade 10.


while riding the wheel when it was not fixed caused the tire to leave a few rubber marks(and probably paint came off) on the chain stays

[Valbrona]

Out of interest, how did you remove the freehub? Thanks.

[sadisticnoob]

I have not been able to totally dissemble the freehub



Initally thought that cap is the inner race for the bearings, but it turned out to be plastic and is the dust seal for the bearings,

took that out with a piler.

I cant remove the outer cassette holding thingy though, my allen keys cant fit into the hole (probably needs a special tool since the hole is at a, but it still spins fine so im not bothered by that.

Luckily the outer race was in good condition, Im quite surprised given the age of the wheel.


the inner race is actually on the axle itself, so you can set play by adjusting the tightness of the bearing by turning the knob backwards and foward.



Non drive side, the cup to hold the bearing, the other end which is on the axle in the previous pic didnt totally go into the bearings, so it just support the bearing on the outside.

A very interesting design, from a long-gone era, compared to the hubs of today