Hi,
Just a quick one..
I'm trying to find any kind of lacing guide / procedure for a 28h x2 rear wheel for my first build.
All I can seem to find are 32h guides.
Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Lacing 28h x2
Moderator: robbosmans
Here's a method that works for any spoke number, assuming a center drilled rim.
Lace a DS pulling spoke to the hole ahead of the valve hole. Do the rest of the DS pulling spokes (every 4th hole in the rim).
Note the NDS and DS spoke holes in the rim are offset. Using the one that's ahead of the DS spoke next to the valve hole lace an NDS spoke to the rim two holes in front of the DS spoke to the valve hole. Do the rest of the NDS spokes.
Now turn the hub to pull the pulling spokes tight and do the trailing spokes. I usually do the DS first because its what makes sense to me but that means a little more fiddling is needed to get the NDS spokes in. It's never been a problem on the hubs I use.
Take care that the spokes first cross is the same all around. Most people lace with the pulling spokes on the outside.
Lace a DS pulling spoke to the hole ahead of the valve hole. Do the rest of the DS pulling spokes (every 4th hole in the rim).
Note the NDS and DS spoke holes in the rim are offset. Using the one that's ahead of the DS spoke next to the valve hole lace an NDS spoke to the rim two holes in front of the DS spoke to the valve hole. Do the rest of the NDS spokes.
Now turn the hub to pull the pulling spokes tight and do the trailing spokes. I usually do the DS first because its what makes sense to me but that means a little more fiddling is needed to get the NDS spokes in. It's never been a problem on the hubs I use.
Take care that the spokes first cross is the same all around. Most people lace with the pulling spokes on the outside.
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Pulling spokes should be on the inside on the rear wheel. It reduces the chance of your chain get stuck if you derail the big cog. There is no benefit to having them the other way.
BTW, another "myth" is that you need to do both sides mirror image of each other, else torque will tend to move the rim right and left. When torque is applied, half the spokes increase in tension on each side of the wheel and half decrease. There is no net change in lateral force regardless of how they are oriented. On rear disc wheels the optimum is to do the DS with pulling spokes inside and do the NDS the other way, so that braking force will tend to pull the spokes in rather than out... else they might rub.
Regardless of how many Xs there are the procedure is the same. Do you have any specific questions?
BTW, another "myth" is that you need to do both sides mirror image of each other, else torque will tend to move the rim right and left. When torque is applied, half the spokes increase in tension on each side of the wheel and half decrease. There is no net change in lateral force regardless of how they are oriented. On rear disc wheels the optimum is to do the DS with pulling spokes inside and do the NDS the other way, so that braking force will tend to pull the spokes in rather than out... else they might rub.
Regardless of how many Xs there are the procedure is the same. Do you have any specific questions?
formerly rruff...
I've tried the pulling spokes on the inside on the first cross. I'd read somewhere that Mavic's pro neutral support wheels were built in varying configurations and tracked throughout a year, and the wheels with pulling spokes on the inside needed less maintenance. But I can't find that article now. And I did not notice any difference across a number of wheels and a few years. So I went back to the normal on the outside lacing.
Nice tip about disc wheels, thanks.
Nice tip about disc wheels, thanks.
