Ok so just finished mounting my Vittoria Corsa Elite in 23 on my new carbon wheels. 1st time gluing tires, not the pretiest job I have seen, but very proud that I attempted it in the 1st place. There is some glue on the tires, that I have to figure how I am going to remove.
If you can find it - naphtha will take glue and most paint off you rims and tyres. Lacquer thinner works for clean-up, as does acetone. Some glues work better with some thinners. Schwalbe makes some glue remover.
All that stuff is bad news to get on you or on stuff around you and is bad for the environment (I'm told that is why some areas do not carry naphtha). Use in open space.
Ok back to my question, I have always assumed you run Tubulars at lower pressure than clinshers. I run my clinsher at 105 PSI.
The printing on the tire says min 115PSI. SO I should not put less than 115 PSI?
How much do you weigh?
What are the roads like?
What kind of rising are you doing?
Tubulars you can go lower and higher as very little energy is lost in the casing.
23mm is pretty wide and those are supple tyres. You can go lower pressure than the min 115PSI, although it makes you wonder why they post a min that is higher than most here said they pumped.
All bouncing to the point of losing contact with the road is bad. An over-inflated tyre does this. Otherwise its about ride, grip and puncture resistance (lower pressure tends to puncture less).
As they are Vittoria you might see what the factory says: http://www.vittoria.com/tech/recom-tyre-pressure
Many here think the numbers you get are way too high.
Oh last question, how bad is it that the tire rotation on the rear is the wrong way. There was just one arrow on the tire, and I only saw it after mounting the tire.
No experience on this one. My belief having seen lots of tyre cases that only the tread is off (as opposed to the manufacture of the tyre case matters). There could be something with how it is sewn - but as I said, I don't know. IMO removing and re-gluing the tyre is worse. If you are on dry I can't think of the issue. Might have minor traction impart.
On the clincher thing. Clinchers often - not always - are tougher/stiffer cases. Basically because people use them for training more than racing and reducing punctures/ability to change a puncture inexpensively matter more. Inherently because of their design where more air is hidden between the rim walls, for a given weight they do not handle as well as tubulars.
A stiffer case takes more energy to flex. It is not a spring that returns all its deflection without cost. It is more like a shock absorber. That deflection generates heat and takes energy. Look at the rollers available in different diameters for different resistance - that is all based on sidewall/tyre case deflection.
Minimize case flex. Stiff tyres take more energy to deflect. Clinchers are usually stiffer. Therefore I think they need pressure higher than what a what a supple case typical tubular needs, yet they also cannot take the higher pressure a tubular can. They also pinch flat more easily, but you should be inflating beyond that being an issue on normal roads.