With tubulars you have to glue them. It's fiddly, messy and time consuming. (see the tubular gluing thread in the wheels sub-forum). They're also more difficult to change when you get a flat. Some people pay a shop to glue them, carry a can of fix-a-flat and hope nothing goes too wrong. They also carry a credit card and the number of a cab company or have an understanding spouse.
I prefer to be as self-sufficient as possible, saving up those call the wife moments for when I really really need it. So no tubies for training for me. I have a set on 960g farsport wheels that I use for uphill-only races. To be honest while they feel really light they're not noticeably faster than my usual 1420g training wheels. The models all back that up. It's a myth that weight on the rim is "worth" 4-8x weight elsewhere when we're talking climbs. It's only on hard accellerations where it does matter more than weight elsewhere on the bike or body, and even then it's not all that much. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_p ... ting_wheel
I think you'd be better served with the BHS/stans wheels, or BHS/KinLin xr19s or xr270s for slight aero (about the same shape as the Easton wheels recommended earlier, and what I use for training wheels), or Pacenti if you want to try wider rims. The latter two especially make sturdy wheels while not being too heavy. If you want fancy wheels without blowing the budget, FarSports 38mm carbon clinchers. I recently got a pair and they're pretty decent. I do a lot of very steep technical descents and I'd take them down any but the worst of them on a hot day (as I would and have my other FarSports carbon clinchers). However braking is not as strong as aluminium rims, requiring more hand pressure at the lever.
For places to live the SF bay area has good riding with lots of climbs (more than Boulder CO) a vibrant cycling and racing scene and plenty of single masters racers.
We even have a few goth clubs left.