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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:22 pm
Posts: 17
Newbie here trying to learn wheel building...I could borrow a truing stand but no dishing tool. Building a front wheel radial lace. So the question is does front radial need to be dished? If it does, i think im better off sending the wheel to a build.

Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:47 pm 
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Location: Canada
The hub certainly has to be centered, front or rear.
So I guess you can try without using a dish tool. You can use a straight object, put it on the rim brake surface, and measure the distance between the object and the hub. It has to be the same both sides.

Louis :)


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Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:47 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 1:16 pm 
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Location: Welland, Ontario
Front is symmetric.

Through many wheel builds, I've never used a dishing tool.

I have Park's cheap stand with the single guage.

Guess what? Throughout the build i flip the wheel in the stand and adjust as necessary. Working my way to perfection. :D

More accurate IMO too.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 3:42 pm 
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bikerjulio wrote:
Front is symmetric.

Through many wheel builds, I've never used a dishing tool.

I have Park's cheap stand with the single guage.

Guess what? Throughout the build i flip the wheel in the stand and adjust as necessary. Working my way to perfection. :D

More accurate IMO too.


Same here, except I have fancy Park stands, and take the left gauge arm out. The gauge arms are near impossible to keep centered and the dishing tools are a pain in the butt. The flip works flawlessly.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 5:46 pm 
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Thanks for the tips guys.....I'll give the flip a go and see the outcome..if I encounter any problem,off to wheelbuilder it goes :)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:44 pm 
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If your tensions are pretty even then a front wheel will stay centred of its own accord. Rear wheels require rather more attention.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 3:44 am 
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Major- thats what Im thinking of...being same tension the wheels should center themselves


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:05 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
However a dishing tool is a worthwhile investment. A front wheel should not require dishing unless the rim has an offset like the archetype but the dishing tool less method is unlikely to get the dish mm perfect.

Dishing tools are not a pain in the butt. I use one every day takes seconds and you know where you are, it speeds up wheel building as it take the guess work out. I would also suggest a spoke tension gauge even a basic one like park's is good enough. I get wheels dished, round and stright to with 0.5mm before I get the spoke tension gauge out and even then I find quite big variations in tension maybe 10-15% on some spokes. Even tensions out will help increase spoke life abit so it worth while.

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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:05 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 6:22 pm
Posts: 17
bmop700f - thanks for the advice...as im on a loaner truing stand and park tensionmeter , im now considering investing in the wheelbuilding tools myself after starting this wheelbuild.I find it calming doing 1/4 , 1/8 turn on the nipple :)

After 4 hours of truing im nearly there in roundness,straight,dish. I went back and forth for maybe 6 times or more to end where I am.

Btw which is the better sequence to follow in truing rim as I did round,straight,dish in that order.

Tension is nearly even as of now...will do more tweaks soon. Averaging 18 on park tensionmeter for fulcrum racing zero spokes. Not sure what it translate in kgf as thats what the tension is before I disassembled the wheel for the new rims.

Once im done with this front wheel...I think Im gonna get some BHS hubs and xr200 rim for more truing practice


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