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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 11:58 pm 
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Just a post incase someone else is searching.

2013 Zipp 404 spoke kept getting loose after each ride on a new wheel set. Trued it twice, same result after each ride, (40 miles, a few sprints). I had 2012 404's and 808's I'd ridden harder so I contacted Zipp on their live chat.

They suggested Loctite Green 290 which is a wicking grade threadlock for small threads that still leaves your wheels with the ability to true them. You are to put a drop on the area where the nipple and thread meet after you true the wheel. Yes, after.

It should cure within 24 hours but I let mine site for 2 weeks as I was out of town and had another bike.

The threadlock will still appear wet to the touch even after a week sitting but no worries, it is penetrating and wicking nature means it dried where it should and is now an anti vibration agent so that darn nipple wont come loose.

Theres a ton of threadlock compounds out there so dont go getting just any old green as you may permanently sieze your nipples to the spokes.

I'm happy to say after 60 miles on the wheels they are not unwinding and I dont have to ditch my new 404's for another set of ENVE's.

Hope this helps someone else with similar issues.

Cheers,

cL

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 2:25 pm 
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I'd call that more of a band aide than a fix...

What spoke was coming loose? What were the tensions?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:03 pm 
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I do not own a Tentionometer. It was the rear drive side spoke, which on FireCrest are radially laced on the drive side.

I'd heard of linseed oil before but it seems this band aide was the suggestion by the manufacturer, and thankfully the solution as I do not want to warranty an entire wheel from Europe in the middle of the summer over one loose spoke.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:04 pm 
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Zipp and many other wheel companies (all?) Use a thread locking compound on spokes. with low spoke count wheels, it's pretty much mandatory. Some zipps come with more Loctite applied than others.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:56 am 
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Really? I never use it and never have had a problem.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:58 am 
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carbonLORD wrote:
It was the rear drive side spoke, which on FireCrest are radially laced on the drive side.


That's amazing. Those spokes couldn't be going slack, so how could they unwind?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:56 am 
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I read somewhere if one must use wicking grade Loctite in nipples, that should be the "medium strength, removable" 220, instead of 290, which has "medium to high strength" according to the data sheet.

But I have no experience with either of these, I still believe properly designed and built wheels shouldn't need any thread locking stuff.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:05 am 
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Last edited by Doolop on Thu Jul 18, 2013 2:46 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:59 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 7:30 am 
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wrcompositi wrote:
I read somewhere if one must use wicking grade Loctite in nipples, that should be the "medium strength, removable" 220, instead of 290, which has "medium to high strength" according to the data sheet.

But I have no experience with either of these, I still believe properly designed and built wheels shouldn't need any thread locking stuff.


And I believe a properly designed anything should be fabulous out the box, but these are working, mechanical, advancements that require a more stringent level of maintenance if we want them to perform like new on every ride...

That said, this is not a 40 spoke wheel for a dutch bike and with 1500g carbon clinchers running 16 spokes for a 200lbs man... if a dab of $15 loc-tite is all she needs to keep her going then gosh darn it, a dab of loc-tite she shall receive.

290 is the recommended thread compound from Zipp. Ive put 500 hard miles on them (36Km averages, 57Km sprints) since this post and have not had a hint of trouble since "loc-titing" them.

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