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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:10 am 
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I did a writeup here about what makes the UL hub so unique. This hub is a game changer.

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http://ergottwheels.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... -look.html

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:25 am 
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Quality post.

Definitely stoked for Jeremy to post some videos on servicing this hub.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:45 am 
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It's real easy to do. Jeremy is better at describing it so better it comes from the source.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 3:24 pm 
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Interesting design. How is preload set, or is there a factory preload on the bearings on the rear?


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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:11 pm 
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Is there a better way to lock the preload than using loctite on the threads, as the first gen ORC required? A mechanical lock ala the R45's collar?


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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:41 pm 
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I have heard this asked before. I personally haven't seen this issue. Once preload is set properly (that might be the problem) I don't see how the hub is coming out of adjustment. At the very worst, a stronger Loctite formula should solve this. I asked Jeremy for his take on it.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 5:00 pm 
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Here's his take on it. Hope it helps.

"First, the end-cap has been moved to the drive side and the thread pitch has been increased. For whatever reason, this seems to improve the bond and makes it easier to set. Second, "setting" the cassette body is no longer part of the adjustment process like it was on the original design. So, adjustment is easier. Third, and most importantly, any kind of collar or locknut system makes it impossible to position the bearings as close to the dropouts as possible. Considering that my primary design goal was to eliminate the "unsupported axle span" on both sides of the hub, Loctite seems to be the only viable option. Personally, I've seen more problems with the tiny hex fittings used in collars than I have had with Loctite. "

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:57 pm 
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Never before have I been this excited about a hub.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 9:32 pm 
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ergott wrote:
What does it all mean? Think outboard bearings for the crankset. The closer the load supporting bearings are to the ends of the axle, the less unsupported axle there is and in turn the system is stiffer. I'm quite confident that this hub will allow for at least 4 fewer spokes than a given component choice with other hubs. This is crucial to builds with lower spoke counts ... http://ergottwheels.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-alchemy-ul-rear-hub-deeper-look.html

Hi ergott, the conclusion in your blog is quite interesting.

Why do you think you can use at least 4 fewer spokes with this hub for the same rim and spokes :?:

thanks KL :)


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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 10:33 pm 
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I say that because the hub design is stiffer and the flange geometry is better than other hubs on the market. I don't know of any other 11 speed hub that is 18mm on the drive side. The closest I've measured is 16.8mm for CK R45. I bet Shimano 9000 is really good as well, but haven't measured/built one yet. The left flange on Alchemy is ideally placed for good lateral stiffness and sufficient tension.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 10:56 pm 
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Hi Ergott, maybe we're not even talking about something like a Campy Record 32 hole hub here, but isn't the spacing on the Campy Record 32 hole hub 16.8 as well, measured center to center of flange. Still, I'm looking at the space available between both the spokes and derailleur and the inside of the drive side dropouts and have to think that with an 18mm drive side flange spacing that somethings gotta give somewhere. Either the cassette has to move outwards or the entire axle is wider (maybe it is?... to accommodate the 131mm spacing of the new Shimano 11sp stuff, or is that not the case). Just seems that if they move the cassette out any further in a 130 spacing environment that there is going to be some problems on some frames with certain setups using 11 or 12 tooth cogs. Not sure as I haven't tried it, but just thinking out loud after having a close look at some clearances between the chain and the dropouts/seatstays of some of my Campy 11sp bikes.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:32 pm 
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ergott wrote:
I say that because the hub design is stiffer and the flange geometry is better than other hubs on the market. I don't know of any other 11 speed hub that is 18mm on the drive side. The closest I've measured is 16.8mm for CK R45. I bet Shimano 9000 is really good as well, but haven't measured/built one yet. The left flange on Alchemy is ideally placed for good lateral stiffness and sufficient tension.

Hi ergott, here are a couple ...
Bartime RS200 ... http://www.bartimecycling.com/product-Hubs-RS200.php
Novatec F482SB-11 ... http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-Road.asp

Although DS CTF = 17mm is ok, providing the FTF spacing is good (Campag seems to be a good example). What is the FTF spacing of the Alchemy UL rear hub ...
Can the 11spd hub be laced heads-in without issue ...

thanks KL :)


Last edited by KLabs on Fri May 03, 2013 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:37 pm 
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@KL- Here are the specs for this hub:

RF = 57.0
LF = 40.0
CR = 18.0
CL = 38.8

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:55 pm 
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Hi Zen Cyclery, specs look very good ... Can the 11spd hub be laced heads-in without issue.

thanks KL :)


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 3:09 pm 
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@KLabs- I'm not really sure I can answer your question. I didn't get any paperwork from Alchemy saying NOT to lace heads in, so I think it would be doable.

I don't really see why its necessary though. This hub already builds up so rigid as is, even with heads out on the NDS.

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