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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
Posts: 711
I'm using a different set of skewers. Zipp's lightweight skewers don't seem to actually clamp properly. As if they will just pop open due to the design. I also have a set of something like KCNC, those clamp better, but I still didn't like how they don't seem to stay shut.

My skewers are a heavier type that came with another set of wheels that when closed, you have no doubt they will stay closed, yet they can still be adjusted so they aren't putting extra pre-load on the hub/bearings.

Good point to ponder for people though.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1965
Location: NoVA/DC
dondenver wrote:
"Incidentally, on older 188 hubs, I was putting a thin coat of fingernail polish(!) on the bearing seat areas to tighten up the fit. It works. Sucks that you had to do that, I know."

Not to hijack large here ...can you expand a bit on your process ^ please


It's not much beyond pulling the axle, cleaning it, painting a very thin coat of nail polish on the bearing seat areas of the axle, waiting for it to dry, and then greasing and reassembly. The thin coat is still thicker than it needs to be, so a little of the nail polish will scrape off when going through the bearings. Even a small plastic hammer to tap the axle through may be needed... But hey, that's the whole point of this exercise.
For nail polish choice, I went with clear for other reasons, and picked one that said, "super hard, durable coat" blah blah...
A coworker managed to get a smear of Loctite 609 or 603 in the right spot. I didn't go that route bc it just seemed trickier.


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Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:34 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:59 pm
Posts: 2
thisisatest wrote:
dondenver wrote:
"Incidentally, on older 188 hubs, I was putting a thin coat of fingernail polish(!) on the bearing seat areas to tighten up the fit. It works. Sucks that you had to do that, I know."

Not to hijack large here ...can you expand a bit on your process ^ please


It's not much beyond pulling the axle, cleaning it, painting a very thin coat of nail polish on the bearing seat areas of the axle, waiting for it to dry, and then greasing and reassembly. The thin coat is still thicker than it needs to be, so a little of the nail polish will scrape off when going through the bearings. Even a small plastic hammer to tap the axle through may be needed... But hey, that's the whole point of this exercise.
For nail polish choice, I went with clear for other reasons, and picked one that said, "super hard, durable coat" blah blah...
A coworker managed to get a smear of Loctite 609 or 603 in the right spot. I didn't go that route bc it just seemed trickier.


ahh...sounds like just the tweak for tightening it up a hair. I have a new cass body to install on a 188 pre black version along with some normal cleanup. I'll incorporate your suggestion. Thanks for the feedback as I pushed this threads hijack meter near the red zone ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:25 am
Posts: 62
Bought some late 2011 FC404's on Zipp hubs and have yet to receive them. Anticipating issues and wondered if rebuilding rear wheel onto a new hub (i.e.Alchemy ) can be done reusing original spokes/nipples. I assume new hub would have to be the same dimensions in order for the spokes lengths to fit correctly? Possible? Maybe a bad idea for other reasons?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:06 pm
Posts: 99
I have Zipp 202's with DT Swiss 180 front and extralite SLX rear, love them and works well.. I'm changing the rear hub to dt swiss 180. overall weight is awesome at 1082 for the set.. You can buy the rim separately and do a build like mine with CX ray spokes and light hubs.


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