ergott, I used the hex head nipples as I wanted to bring the build up to final tension from the back side and reduce the risk of deforming the nipple flats. I also very much like the solid nipple head... without the slot for a standard flat head nipple driver. Stronger. When nipples fail, they do so at the head (usually because the spokes were too short and didn't extend far enough up to reinforce this zone.)
I'm not doing anything wrong, and did lube the nipples.... Used Jeremy's (alchemy) spoke prep for the threads, and a light oil on the nipple-rim interface. Also used Jeremy's bladed spoke holder. Nonetheless, on previous builds, the final tensioning deformed 2 or 3 nipples just enough that they needed a little pliers love to reform.
Crazy enough, on the OC A 23 rim, I was able to build from the top, as the inner-rim profile left room for the socket driver tool. Spoke tensions are soooo much closer to even! Wow. 1x DS and 2X non-drive side, led to 100 on DS and 80 on NDS. However, the rim itself proved a bit below the quality I was hoping for, with some issues at the sleeved joint. Ultimately, although the tensions are more equal from side to side, there is more variability than I would like. Ohh well.
Also, as a side note, these rims are quite effected by tire pressure. They lose 10-15 Kgf when tires are installed at pressure. This is helpful in getting that extra little spoke tension without risking nipple damage, but be careful not to tighten things up so much with the tire installed, that taking it off bumps up spoke tension close or beyond the A23s 120 Kgf limit.
I built to 95 Kgf front (radial 24 cx-rays on a White industries F11), and 100/80 for the rear (24 cx-rays, 1x DS and 2x NDS to Powertap SL+)
Thanks for the help, all.