Tough to say without seeing the glue job. Generally speaking, a good glue-job will last several seasons. In addition to the quality of the original job, the choice of glue, the storage conditions and the nature of the other components (tire and rim), can also make a difference.
The best thing to do is to test the tire first. You should not be easily able to remove the edges of the deflated tire from the rim. I would recommend testing each tire (both sides) in a few spots. If it seems to be well-glued, you should be safe to re-inflate it and ride. Make sure you inspect the tread and sidewall, too, to ensure that the tire has not been damaged during storage or transportation.
Making the transition to tubulars
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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mellowJohnny
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:56 am
- Location: YYZ
Quick tire "aging" question: I do not specifically set out to "age" my tires, but the spares I have now are sitting around folded up and held together (under tension) with an elastic band.
Just wondering if keeping them in a folded state with a tight-ish elastic band will bugger anything up over time. Like a year max before I get around to using them.
Thanks!
EDIT: Call me lazy, just found a good article here: http://www.cxmagazine.com/buying-tubula ... -explained. Bottom line? Don't do what I'm doing...
Just wondering if keeping them in a folded state with a tight-ish elastic band will bugger anything up over time. Like a year max before I get around to using them.
Thanks!
EDIT: Call me lazy, just found a good article here: http://www.cxmagazine.com/buying-tubula ... -explained. Bottom line? Don't do what I'm doing...
The issue of 'aging' tires is a bit of a 'hot' one. Personally, I age all my tires by installing them on a rim and 'rounding' them out with air. I leave them alone, out of the light, in a cool, dry basement. I will periodically reinflate them. After they have been 'aging' for about a year, I will also add a layer of liquid latex to the sidewall.
I have never left a tire in it's original packaging, as I would be concerned about leaving a natural rubber tread (which is adhered only by an adhesive and not vulcanized to the casing) or the tube folded tightly.
I have never left a tire in it's original packaging, as I would be concerned about leaving a natural rubber tread (which is adhered only by an adhesive and not vulcanized to the casing) or the tube folded tightly.
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mellowJohnny
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:56 am
- Location: YYZ
I'm just about to do the same.
To be honest I think the misconception about aging tubulars comes from misunderstanding the different tire building techniques. Handmade, non-vulcanized tires benefit from aging. Cheaper, vulcanized "mechanically" built tires do not. Likely this is where the misinformation has come from over the years - guys who tried to age mass-produced vulcanized tires saw no benefit (and perhaps even a performance degradation) without perhaps realizing they were trying to age the wrong kind of tires.
Thanks Geoff!
PS - nice little snow storm you guys had over the week-end...I arrived just in time to "enjoy" it
To be honest I think the misconception about aging tubulars comes from misunderstanding the different tire building techniques. Handmade, non-vulcanized tires benefit from aging. Cheaper, vulcanized "mechanically" built tires do not. Likely this is where the misinformation has come from over the years - guys who tried to age mass-produced vulcanized tires saw no benefit (and perhaps even a performance degradation) without perhaps realizing they were trying to age the wrong kind of tires.
Thanks Geoff!
PS - nice little snow storm you guys had over the week-end...I arrived just in time to "enjoy" it
You know, people keep on telling me that, but I do it anyway. I have to say, there is a very visible and tangible difference to an 'aged', vulcanized tire and a 'fresh' one. My aged, 'Black Chilli' Conti Comps and Vittorias all develope a rust-coloured patina similar to my Dugast or FMB tires over the years. Also, they resist the 'fingernail' test better than a 'fresh' tire. I, for one, will keep on aging all tubulars...
Yeah it has been a bit brisk. It was 15 degrees on Saturday, then -10 on Sunday. There was about 10 or 15 cm of snow, too. I did intervals, but should have switched to the MTB. It was brutal. Go figure.
Yeah it has been a bit brisk. It was 15 degrees on Saturday, then -10 on Sunday. There was about 10 or 15 cm of snow, too. I did intervals, but should have switched to the MTB. It was brutal. Go figure.
Hi,
Correct. All tyres do benefit from some aging even though the handmade ones should benefit the most. IMHO, I consider it as a necessity to properly age anything handmade a la Veloflex, FMB, Dugast etc.
They won't degrade, they'll outgas and the rubber will be a tiny bit harder.
BTW, I happen to have a big box with all kinds of clinchers in them as well which has been in the cellar for at least a dozen years. All of them still look fine. (Don't panic, I stock these for one of my brothers.
)
Ciao,
You know, people keep on telling me that, but I do it anyway. I have to say, there is a very visible and tangible difference to an 'aged', vulcanized tire and a 'fresh' one. My aged, 'Black Chilli' Conti Comps and Vittorias all develope a rust-coloured patina similar to my Dugast or FMB tires over the years. Also, they resist the 'fingernail' test better than a 'fresh' tire. I, for one, will keep on aging all tubulars...
Correct. All tyres do benefit from some aging even though the handmade ones should benefit the most. IMHO, I consider it as a necessity to properly age anything handmade a la Veloflex, FMB, Dugast etc.
They won't degrade, they'll outgas and the rubber will be a tiny bit harder.
BTW, I happen to have a big box with all kinds of clinchers in them as well which has been in the cellar for at least a dozen years. All of them still look fine. (Don't panic, I stock these for one of my brothers.
)Ciao,
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.
Whew! I never got along with my brother either.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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mellowJohnny
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:56 am
- Location: YYZ
My LBS was gluing up an old Sprinter for me this week as a favour and decided a new one was safer (I had previously ripped the base tape removing it). He called and said "Do you want me to throw on a new Sprinter?" I said no, I'll be right over. I handed him one of mine and said "yours aren't aged in a Belgian root cellar..."
BTW, anyone have a good strategy for gluing Competitions (or any Contis for that matter)? I will be putting on a set next Spring but I had a hell of a time mounting them dry to stretch on a set of old hoops . Wow. Used a tire lever and mounted the last bit an inch at a time. Not sure how well that will work once glue gets introduced into the mix.
BTW, anyone have a good strategy for gluing Competitions (or any Contis for that matter)? I will be putting on a set next Spring but I had a hell of a time mounting them dry to stretch on a set of old hoops . Wow. Used a tire lever and mounted the last bit an inch at a time. Not sure how well that will work once glue gets introduced into the mix.
Um. Apparently, I'm the wrong guy to speak to about Conti-Comps, as I appear to be the only one here who has never had the slightest problem mounting a Conti Comp.
My 'technique' appears to be no different than anyone else: placing the stretching rim valve-up on the floor; leaning over the rim while working the tire around the rim, slowly sliding your hands down around the tire so as to keep pressure on it; standing up and placing the rim into your waist prior to flipping the last bit of the tire onto the rim with your thumbs. It always goes smoothly for me. Even Conti Comp 25's are ok (not like a Dugast Paris-Roubaix Seta 27, as an example). Inflate them for a few weeks and then glue 'em up.
I actually think that tires are easier to get on a rim once they have glue on the basetape, as they don't 'slip' back up the rim if you let the pressure off. You should be ok if you leave the tire to stretch for a couple of weeks on their own.
My 'technique' appears to be no different than anyone else: placing the stretching rim valve-up on the floor; leaning over the rim while working the tire around the rim, slowly sliding your hands down around the tire so as to keep pressure on it; standing up and placing the rim into your waist prior to flipping the last bit of the tire onto the rim with your thumbs. It always goes smoothly for me. Even Conti Comp 25's are ok (not like a Dugast Paris-Roubaix Seta 27, as an example). Inflate them for a few weeks and then glue 'em up.
I actually think that tires are easier to get on a rim once they have glue on the basetape, as they don't 'slip' back up the rim if you let the pressure off. You should be ok if you leave the tire to stretch for a couple of weeks on their own.
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Geoff wrote:Whaaaa? You have a 13-degree cavern under your estate to house tubulars too?
What do you think? Actually they are stored in a tower. About 18-degree, but it is dark and they are on old wooden rims.
Keep latex away from electric motors that produce Ozone (O3). So storage in a garage with a freezer unit may not be a good idea.
