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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I got the 24mm tubulars with "hubsmith" hubs last year. The wheels are much stiffer than I expected they'd be and the braking (blue pads) is near aluminium levels at least in the dry. They came in at 960g.


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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 11:43 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1414
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Mine are not farsport rims but are 50mm deep and 25mm wide. conti gp4000s 23mm tyres are 26mm on these and ride like tubs (almost) I would say a 70g weight penalty is worth it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:16 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:38 am
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Location: Dutchess County, NY
Not sure how others are doing w/ brake pads-- I recently switched to a set of enve pads I had laying around and the braking has improved tremendously from the swissstop black (carbon) pads I was using. No squealing whatsoever, braking is much more predictable (it wasn't that bad w/ the other pads) but this is a big improvement.

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 9:38 pm 
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+1 on ENVE gray pads. The FarSports blue pads I had earlier were worn down very quickly and quite grabby.

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Last edited by FilmAt11 on Tue May 06, 2014 6:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
On my 2014 38mmx20.5 rims I prefer the old blue pads. The new black "ceramic" pads give the brakes a firm and crisp feel but just don't stop well, requiring significantly more hand pressure at the lever.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Crap! A bearings' already died on the new 38mm wheels I've been riding for less than two weeks.
Cheap chinese ceramic bearings....

Anyone know how the axle comes out of the "edhub" rear (after the end caps and freehub is removed)? Other bitex rear hubs have an axle with no lip but gentle tapping with a plastic mallet does not move this edhub axle either way.


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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 4:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am
Posts: 464
@ eric: sorry to hear that... maybe that just means you ride too much. ;) sorry i can't be of any help.. as i don't know how to remove or service the hubs.

on a side note... looking to build a cyclocross bike and thinking to get Farsport's FSJ-38C-23 (for Disc use). anyone riding cyclo currently using Farsport wheelset? would love to hear some feedback. i have their road clincher 38mm with edhub (non-ceramic) and it's solid like a rock...


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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:04 pm
Posts: 231
AddictR1 I have the farsports 38x23 on novatec hubs. Have used them off road a couple of times but done plenty of on road KM's (they are on my winter bike). Still perfectly true and spin really well - I get quite a lot of friendly abuse about my Chinese wheels (I have farsports 38's on my summer bike too) but they build and hold speed really well and I am rarely 'out rolled' down a hill - granted I am carrying a few kilos on some of them but I think the wheels do make a big difference ). In some ways the disc brake wheels deal with the one bit of uncertainty most have over cheap carbon wheels of heat dissipation on the brake track. In short, highly recommended. All I need now is my hydraulic discs back from Sram!!!


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 1:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I got the bearings out. As I suspected the axle has shoulders on the inner side of each bearing. I needed to heat the hub with a propane torch (gently and carefully!) then whack the axle with a hammer + block of wood to protect the axle to get the DS bearing out. The NDS side came out easier.

One bearing is rough: it's dead. I pulled some 6802s out of a Bitex freehub and used them to replace the ceramic bearings. I put the bearings in the freezer for a while which seemed to help but they still needed some force from a socket the same size as the outer race (and the hammer) to get fully seated. A shop press would be much better but mine can't fit a wheel.

6802s are tiny! That's how they got the weight down.


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:46 pm
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Are the Edhubs known to be rubbish or have you just been unlucky? Or are the ceramic no good and the regular (steel?) versions decent?


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 4:59 pm 
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I've heard of a few of the ceramic bearings going out quickly on the edhubs. I took a chance anyhow, because ceramic. I think the regular steel ones should be ok.

The BHS (Bitex) hubs I have been using for training use a 6802 on the NDS and a larger 6902 on the DS. BHS gets them with Enduro bearings.
I think I have had one go bad ever, which is a pretty good record. I may just buy some Enduro bearings for this wheel. I'd like to get the bearings White Ind uses for their hubs as they roll very well.

I'm not sure but I suspect that the problem may be excess preload. With this hub design the distance between the bearing seats in the hub and the shoulders on the axle must be exactly the same or the bearings will have too much preload on them. I suspect that to deal with manufacturing tolerance they would make the distance between the seats in the hub to be slightly short. If it is longer than the axle shoulder distance then the preload would be too great no matter what you do (because the axle caps squeeze the inner races as they are tightened). If the hub distance is shorter than the axle shoulder distance, then you could just not fully seat the bearings in the hub in order to get the preload right. When I put mine back together I fully seated the bearings and the axle turns stiffly. I bet that if I took up all the slack on the axle but no more it would turn freely.

I hope that paragraph is not complete gibberish.

Anyhow, I'm guessing that when FarSports put in the ceramic bearings they fully seated them in the hub, becaue the axle was kind of stiff when I got the wheels. Ceramic balls don't handle excess preload as well as steel, from my experience.


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:43 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Belgium
Which of the 2 brake surfaces (basalt or high temperature) looks the nicest with a UD Matt rim?

Because I don't want it to be like this (is this basalt or high temperature?):
https://s29pjg.dm2301.livefilestore.com/y2muGBehhL5nMIJbcm_rY-CXNELQ63oOyTbbPjT_GGeUmexBB0BN6T5-6mPG0JIp2dOBE6AmvJCVhvUgIlhk0Vssn-3J3d-4o0n3ML2GRsX3H55yAluLk0s-24dBKKB7Hn5/WP_20140430_012.jpg?psid=1

I want them like this:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/10862442613_40807bfe13_b.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
The bottom one is the basalt as it looks after being used for a while. Top one is the high temperature, and it looks new.

Personally I think they look about the same. If the high temp. doesn't wear like the basalt does then it'll look better. "nicest" is in the eye of the beholder.

Braking qualities seem comparable. One of my sets of basalt rims has uneven braking but the other does not, so I don't know if it's characteristic of the basalt construction.


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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 11:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 11:08 am
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Location: Urbana, Illinois
Does anyone know the size of the bearings for the ED hubs? Mine have been spinning great for a few thousand miles but nothing lasts forever. I also believe the front is 4 688 bearings. Looking around it seems that 688 come in 4 and 5mm width, which one is it?

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Posted: Thu May 08, 2014 11:06 am 


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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1733
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
The rears ed hub appears to use 4 6802s. The BHS SL211 uses 3 66802s and a 6902 in the hub DS. (also 15mm ID but larger balls and OD). The SL210 uses two 6902s in the hub.

In researching bearings I found that enduro makes some ABEC 5 6802s with plastic cage. I wanted high quality steel bearings. Their lower level ABEC 3 ones with the blue seals have a steel cage. Supposedly the plastic cage ones have less drag. (ABEC rates the tolerances- higher numbers have closer tolerances of the parts and so should be smoother running, but many other things determine bearing drag). I found the enduro bearings on amazon.


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