FarSports 38mm Carbon Clincher Review Thread, The

[TheDarkInstall]

Machining bearing seats for cartridge bearings accurate enough with perfect tolerences take money.

All these cheap ass ED / Bitex / Hubsmith / YuHubs that have tight notchy bearings (and I have seen loads of them like this) are impossible to remedy. You get what you pay for.

The Farsports rims are OK, but the cheap Chinese hubs are mainly all junk. Go ChrisKing, or DT on the hubs, if you expect them to be any good.

[TheDarkInstall]

With this hub design there's no way you can overtighten the end caps IF the bearings are correctly seated in the hub shell and freehub body. If tightening them makes the hub harder to turn then the bearings are not fully seated.

On the contrary; the bearings are seated alright. The bearings seats are not machined properly in the hub shell / freebody. This is the main problem with cheap Chinese hubs, as it is the part that of machining that takes the most money and accuracy.

[eric]

On all the ones I've had that don't turn smoothly out of the box, reseating the bearings has fixed it.
The front on the one set of Hubsmiths I have took a couple tries. It might be machined a little off though I've gotten it to work. I'm not too happy with those hubs and would not get them again. I've had to do it to a couple Bitex/BHS hubs out of the 12 or so I've had, but they were not bad to begin with, just had more drag than I thought they could have. On them just fully re-seating the bearings got them to turn perfectly smoothly.

To me that doesn't qualify as "junk", but I don't mind fussing with these things. Some people might consider White Ind hubs whose preload adjustment loosens as "junk". I just set it again.

[djtodd]

Has anyone else picked up the 25mm wide version of the farsport wheels, and had... difficulty getting 23mm tires on and off?

Either I'm a complete wimp, or I'm betting that my 23mm Durano S tires aren't the best match for these rims.

[eric]

Conti GP4000s mount fairly easily on my 50x23mm farsport rims.
I used two turns of 2mil kapton tape which is very thin. That helps.

[felipedana]

what's the veredict on the carbonspeedcycle 38mm tubeless wheelset? any good? it's 1390g and $430 shipped ... is this the best deal?

[Spanglo]

38mmx20.5mm Clincher - FSC38-CM-NEW at 1250g... wow. Those would replace 1800g rims... a 550g difference! Ok, I'm sold.

[AJS914]

Never mind - figured it out.

[addictR1]

i have some FS 38mm v-shaped wheelset i bought about 2 yrs ago. would like to know what the spoke tension should be at? i noticed my rear wheel's spokes feels under tension on the drive side.

i found an old email exchange and said the recommend tension for rear wheel: NDS-- 135kgf, DS-- 85kgf

does that sound about right to you guys running the 38mm v-shaped rims?

thanks..

[wrcompositi]

i have some FS 38mm v-shaped wheelset i bought about 2 yrs ago. would like to know what the spoke tension should be at? i noticed my rear wheel's spokes feels under tension on the drive side.

i found an old email exchange and said the recommend tension for rear wheel: NDS-- 135kgf, DS-- 85kgf

does that sound about right to you guys running the 38mm v-shaped rims?

thanks..

If you're not heavy, I think it's not necessary to set tension above 130kgf, 110-120 would be fine. I have a set of Farsports 38 tubular(FSL-38TM) built by myself, the DS tension is about 110kgf(by not so precise Park TM-1). After 2000km I checked the trueness, which had only very silght change. I weigh 62kg by the way.

And the alu nipples tend to seize over time(I always use anti-seize IN NIPPLES AND ON SPOKES but still have seized nipples sometimes, maybe I should have used more lavishly? ), further decrease the chance of loosening even the tension is not very high.

[addictR1]

wrcompositi: thanks for the input. but tonight i checked my rear wheel and saw this..

https://www.dropbox.com/s/amzloyvxf0vxr ... l.jpg?dl=0

the surface is smooth though... so not sure if the crack is from inside?

[Shortsocks]

A heads up for everyone one here for Future reference on Brake Pads for the FarSport 38mm's.

I have the 38mm with Basalt Braking area and I needed New Brakes. I ordered these:

http://www.williamscycling.com/2013-Williams-Blue-Carbon-Brake-Pads-_p_125.html

Now the Pictures , on the Williams Website, are not exactly correct. The Pictures make these look like the FarSport Blue Pads with those Dark Speckles in them. Thats what I thought they were as well. So I ordered them thinking they were just re-branded Blue FarSport Pads with the Black/Gray Speckles.

So when I got them in the Mail they were Blue but not with the Black/Gray Speckles. Actually they looked more like the Blue Reynolds Pads. The Blue Reynolds Pads look more Plastic-y then the FarSport Blue Black/Gray Speckled pads, which look like they have a more Rubber consistency.

Anyway.
With Hesitation I used them and They work GREAT! Actually they work extremely similar if not the same as Reynolds Blue Pads. Which is Great because those Pads cost way more than the FarSport Pads. They have no heating issues or issues with leaving residue on the Basalt areas. As well mine Dont Screech when breaking.
So there we go. They work.

For Future Guides and People looking.

[addictR1]

Shortsocks: yup those are the same ones i'm running as well on my FS after my initial pair wore out.

[wrcompositi]

wrcompositi: thanks for the input. but tonight i checked my rear wheel and saw this..

https://www.dropbox.com/s/amzloyvxf0vxr ... l.jpg?dl=0

the surface is smooth though... so not sure if the crack is from inside?

Well, I'm no expert but does it sound different to other areas?

[TheDarkInstall]

How often are you guys burning your rims out?

I have done two clinchers now; both 38mm 20.5mm. They on the brake track at the same place that the lip of the bead sits at inside the rim. I use the brake pads supplied by FarSports and I do put in a LOT of riding on them, including descending a lot, so I guess it is to be expected.

Both rims have lasted about 9 months each.