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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:14 pm 
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After reading up on this subject I noted recommendation(s) to lightly abrase the rims glueing surface with Scotch Brite or 220+ grit sand paper.

It had to do with release agent residue (blush?) although i do wonder about clearcoat in general especially if its an acrylic urethane.

Given the large number of people here with a lot of knowledge & experience in these matters I'd be grateful for any insights into the best protocol for Hyperon rim preparation for glueing.

Thanks -- Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:56 pm 
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On my hyperon and bora I just cleaned the rim bed. I see no reason to abrase it.


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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:56 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 1:20 am 
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The Campag directions for my Boras said to use sandpaper or Scotchbrite -- I don't recall which. Go to the Campag site and you likely can find the instructions for your rims.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:36 am 
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i thought the reason for using a light abrasive on a new rim was to remove any residual release agent, not to abrade the surface

in other work i've used release agents that were quite waxy, i doubt the solvents i use to clean a rim would remove them

fwiw i use very fine wirewool, it's easy to make a ball to match the profile


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:59 pm 
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sungod wrote:
i thought the reason for using a light abrasive on a new rim was to remove any residual release agent, not to abrade the surface

in other work i've used release agents that were quite waxy, i doubt the solvents i use to clean a rim would remove them

fwiw i use very fine wirewool, it's easy to make a ball to match the profile


^This is correct. I know I have not sanded my Boras in the past, but I did a light go round on my newest set, simply because this is what is recommended in the manual I got with them. I believe I used 320 grit wet/dry emory cloth, not the 120grit mentioned below.
To quote (page 4 of the English section): "The first time the tubular tyre is applied sand the rim with 120 grain sandpaper in order to eliminate the surface polish and degrease only the rim gluing surface with acetone before applying the glue for the installation of the tubular tyre."

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:52 pm 
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Correct. Make it a very fine grit, like 320 carbide (and use carbide rather than garnet or other sand abrasives that have contamination from larger grit). All you're trying to do is remove stuff that's on the surface of the carbon and that doesn't come off with reasonable solvents. You'll just create a matte-like finish on your rim bed, and not be taking off significant resin and no carbon at all. Your glue doesn't depend on having "teeth" on the bed to hold onto -- it just needs a very clean surface. I don't think Scotchbrite really does it unless you get the stuff with actual abrasive bonded to it. If you do want to use that, I think it's the pink color that is the ultra-fine version sold for auto body shops to do final sanding on an auto finish. Check me on the color, but you want the finest one. It's nice stuff but for your rims, straight black 320 grit carbide wet-or-dry paper works fine.


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Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 9:52 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Thank you to all who responded. Your participation makes this a really useful resource.

Yesterday the wheels arrived. *wow* On page 4 of book 2 the following appears. I'll quote:

"WARNING! do not sandpaper the rim before installing the tubular tire. Do not perform any operations which may cause abrasions, scratches, or cuts to the rim or which may damage it in any other way. This damage could cause the rim to unexpectedly fail, resulting in accident, etc..."

I did note the glueing surface was dull in appearance apparently lacking any sort of clear coating. I will wipe them off with acetone before applying glue.

This applies to the Fulcrum Racing Light XLR which to my understanding uses the same rim as the Hyperon.


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