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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1724
Location: Canada
I finally bought some 40 mm 27 wide tubulars from Carbon Cycle.

Very nice finish (UD matte with 3K brake track), one rim weighed 371g and the other 375g.
Roundness isn't perfect, but it built nicely to a well balanced wheelset.
I put Sapim CX Ray spokes, BHS SLF71W and SL190 hubs ( 20/24h ) with alloy 12mm nipples.
The set came in at 1225g.
Glued some Corsa CX 23mm on them and delivered them to its (very happy) owner.

Louis :)


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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 11:57 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:20 am 
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Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 5:53 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Ogden, UT
LouisN wrote:
I finally bought some 40 mm 27 wide tubulars from Carbon Cycle.

Very nice finish (UD matte with 3K brake track), one rim weighed 371g and the other 375g.
Roundness isn't perfect, but it built nicely to a well balanced wheelset.
I put Sapim CX Ray spokes, BHS SLF71W and SL190 hubs ( 20/24h ) with alloy 12mm nipples.
The set came in at 1225g.
Glued some Corsa CX 23mm on them and delivered them to its (very happy) owner.

Louis :)


Any pics? That's a killer setup. Considering something like that for cross.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1724
Location: Canada
I knew I had to take some pics, but don't own any camera nor Ipods/phones ... :oops:
I'll manage to get some pics when the junior kid comes back to my place for tubular glueing lessons :p.


Also find a new host for pics. My "old" Imageshack account now costs $$$ ...

Louis :)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 3:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:24 am
Posts: 11
pushstart wrote:
jamesaus wrote:
The only negatives I have seen on LB had to do with clearcoat on the brake tracks / poor braking, but obviously that was not a concern for the disc-brake build.


I have a F/R set of LB 45mm wheels. The front rim developed a large bulge about 30mm wide just above the brake track. From my inspection it appears that the clincher bead developed a crack (or the epoxy did not bond well) along the tire bead face in the area which directly contacts the tire. This allows the outside surface to move relative to the the inner "tube" area. LB was very helpful and has shipped a replacement rim which I'll have to rebuild myself and have paid the cost of shipping. In context of a inexpensive product made in china I am still happy with the transaction but it hasn't been as smooth as I would have hoped for.

My thoughts on the wheel set before the bulge issue have been very good. I have been particularly happy with the braking performance in the wet. Don't get me wrong, it is still nothing in comparison to a alum surface wheel, but it is good-smooth enough to feel safe and comfortable with.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 12:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:53 pm
Posts: 90
I just melted the front brake track of my LB U45.

The decent: steep and nasty. Jamberoo Pass. South of Sydney. I have done the pass many times before. I descend pretty fast and well enough. I don't drag brakes (used to race motorbikes, so am confidence enough at speeds.) Brake pads were Swiss Stop Yellow.

Strava lists the gradients as up to 22%, but let's call it well above 10% in areas. 550m elevation. With switchbacks. I weigh 92kg.

The weather was cool and damp.

I have ridden these wheels flawlessly for about 5000km.

So, everything is pointing to some problems with carbon clinchers. (heavy rider, steep descents with heavy braking.) And sure enough, when I got 3/4 down the hill and I heard a different pitch to the squealing they make - the rims have never been quiet - regardless of the pads I have used. At the bottom I feel a shuddering and I look at the front rim. It has melted and been "pressed in" in some parts. See pictures. I figure I was lucky the rims did not delaminate and throw a bead.

I will be throwing these in the bin as soon as I remove the hubs. These rims are not for me. Nor are any other "non-branded" copies of carbon clincher rims. I just don't trust them any more. Having said that they might be fine for lighter riders who don't want to descend on them like I did.

Does anyone know where I can get some Zipps or HED that have been built up stronger (28h r and 24 f or similar)?

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free image host


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am
Posts: 165
@drewb Why not look into November's Rail series? They done some testing on their rims where they dragged it down hill and the result was that the temperature was no where near the threshold. They also have a 24/28 option.

Check out their testing here:
http://www.novemberbicycles.com/blog/20 ... light.html
http://www.novemberbicycles.com/blog/20 ... art-1.html


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:12 pm
Posts: 8
@drewb or anyone that knows. What is the break track material of the LB U45??


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1716
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
SwissStop Yellows claim another rim. They are about the worst pads you can use as far as putting heat in to the rim.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:12 pm
Posts: 8
What do u use eric? I just got my carbon-cycle wheels with what I believe is SwissStop.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1716
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Reynolds blue often work well on the types of rims that Swiss Stop are often recommended for.

For example Reynolds used to recommend yellows for their rims until they developed the blue pads. I have used the yellows and reynolds blue pads on Reynolds wheels. I had the tire come off a Reynolds with the yellows, descending a very steep very technical road on a very hot day. However that could have been my error in installing the tire.

I've used the Reynolds and FarSport blue pads on my Farsports, also SwissStop Black pads. The FarSport pads used to perform the same as Reynolds but the last set I got are super screechy and don't brake as well.

I recently picked up some Bontrager cork pads to try. They work well on Bontrager rims and FarSport recommends them (but they recommend yellows). I'm leery to use cork on rims that recomend rubber based pads but if FarSport recommends them they might not be too bad. I just ordered some more Reynolds as a backup.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:44 am
Posts: 419
Location: Oztralien
Can the Corima red pads be used with Farsports rims?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 5:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:57 am
Posts: 90
fletch62 wrote:
Can the Corima red pads be used with Farsports rims?


I now use Corima cork pads on Farsports rims with basalt brake tracks.(FSL-38TM)

Compared to Farsports blue pads, I found Corima pads have firmer feeling, modulate better, wear less and don't screech at all, but generate more heat. I'm not heavy and don't brake a lot while descending, so the heat is not a big issue for me.

And Corima pads save 17~18g over Farsports pads. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2014 9:59 pm
Posts: 20
WU6C has arrived to my door step
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 4:32 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:20 am
Posts: 338
You're going to have to do better than that!


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Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 4:32 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 4:34 am 
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ok boss


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