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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
Hello all,

I'm a newbe, so I did not want to spend to much until I learn more, but wanted a good product. Here is my very low budget CL find that I have been enjoying so far.....

Frame - Scott CR1 Team Edition 58cm Compact
Fork - Scott CR1Team Edition
Groupset - Shimano Dura Ace 7800
Chain - unknown
Headset - Scott
Bars -Cheep alloy used for my fitting
Stem - Cheep alloy used for my fitting
Pedals - Speedplay X Titanium pedals - 151g
Seatpost - Easton EC90
Seat - Williams Aurora SLC - 149g
Wheelset - Easton Ascent ll / Velomax Orion ll
Skewers - Front is 23g Rear is 16g
Cages - 41G each
Tires - Continental Ultra Race 23 (F) and Gatorskin 23 (R
Tubes - unknown

At my LBS with Pedals it was 7.25 Kg / 16 Lbs

I plan to make a few low budget (more used parts) changes to make the bike more what I want and along the way I was hoping to shed some weight if I can.

So I'm looking for input where would you start ?

Image

Updated 12/11/14


Last edited by KarlC on Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:02 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:01 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:00 am
Posts: 60
I'd start by reading some of the threads in the Introduce Yourself / Gallery - Please use metric weights. section of the forum for ideas.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
RimClencher,

Yes LOTS to read an learn, I've been doing that and will continue, this site is part of the reason I picked the Scott CR1 Team Edition bike to start with.

But I would still like to get input for others on improvements that can be made, including looks.

Right now I don't like my .....

- Seat - I am thinking of a used Williams Aurora-SLC at 145g
- Pedals - Maybe change, not sure to what yet ?
- Wheels - Love to have some light weight carbon deep V, but they seem pricey
- Handlebars - Will change but not sure to what yet
- Stem - Will change but not sure to what yet

Any input would be much appreciated, Thx all


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:27 am 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
Posts: 410
Location: Adelaide, Australia
First, improve your flexibility so you can reverse the stem. Core strength workouts are good too. These are essentially "free" upgrades (if you back it up with solid riding).

Oh, and nice bike :)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1804
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
You have a short stem and the seat is forward on a no setback post. Unless you have short thighs the seat is probably too far forward. That will put more weight on your hands. Which may be why you have the short stem.

Before you spend money on wheels or equipment, get a fitting.

Then go ride a lot.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Posts: 668
Location: The Taint of the USA!
The first thing you need to do is get a proper fitting performed by a trained professional. This will help you dictate what changes need to be made versus what changes you want to make. Once you have that dialed in, the biggest bang-for-your-buck upgrade is with the wheels. You're presently using DA7800 components, which are very good, and you can leave those alone for a while. If you want to upgrade your pedals, go for it - Shimano's new offerings are very light, and even the lowest levels are made of carbon and lighter than what you have on there now.

Most important of all is to get out there and ride!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 4:25 pm
Posts: 56
Location: London
Welcome, KarlC.

First things first. The best way to make smart buys in terms of saving weight is knowing how much each of your components weight.

Buy yourself a digital kitchen scale, take your bike apart, weight your components.

With this, you will be able to see where you can shed some considerable weight and make your bike look nicer in your eyes. Some easy wins would be swapping out the generic alloy stuff, there usually is a lot of weight to be saved there.

With regards to your saddle, for example, you will find out that, for a padded saddle, 145g isn't all that bad. For you to get lower than that (without spending some serious money) you would end up going for unpadded full carbon saddles.

So yeah. Read up, ask questions, and good luck!

:beerchug:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
istigatrice wrote:
First, improve your flexibility so you can reverse the stem. Core strength workouts are good too. These are essentially "free" upgrades (if you back it up with solid riding).

Oh, and nice bike :)


Thanks for the input.

There are spacers under the stem to raise it up, should I just start with moving some spacers to the top of the stem to slowly work my way down ?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
eric wrote:
You have a short stem and the seat is forward on a no setback post. Unless you have short thighs the seat is probably too far forward. That will put more weight on your hands. Which may be why you have the short stem.

Before you spend money on wheels or equipment, get a fitting.

Then go ride a lot.


FIJIGabe wrote:
The first thing you need to do is get a proper fitting performed by a trained professional. This will help you dictate what changes need to be made versus what changes you want to make. Once you have that dialed in, the biggest bang-for-your-buck upgrade is with the wheels. You're presently using DA7800 components, which are very good, and you can leave those alone for a while. If you want to upgrade your pedals, go for it - Shimano's new offerings are very light, and even the lowest levels are made of carbon and lighter than what you have on there now.

Most important of all is to get out there and ride!


Thanks for the input guys !

I should have mentioned this before, the fist thing I did was get the bike fitted and tuned at my buddies bike shop http://www.revolutionbikeshop.com/. I knew going in that the 58cm frame was on the big size for me and they agreed and said fact that it is a compact frame helps a bit. I plan to ride several times a week, see how it feels and go from there.

I have been looking at wheels, I like the newer deep V look, just need to find some light weight ones for a good price.

Thx I did not know the components where 7800 now I can read up on them.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
DWatkinsBSB wrote:
Welcome, KarlC.

First things first. The best way to make smart buys in terms of saving weight is knowing how much each of your components weight.

Buy yourself a digital kitchen scale, take your bike apart, weight your components.

With this, you will be able to see where you can shed some considerable weight and make your bike look nicer in your eyes. Some easy wins would be swapping out the generic alloy stuff, there usually is a lot of weight to be saved there.

With regards to your saddle, for example, you will find out that, for a padded saddle, 145g isn't all that bad. For you to get lower than that (without spending some serious money) you would end up going for unpadded full carbon saddles.

So yeah. Read up, ask questions, and good luck!

:beerchug:


Yes I plan on getting a scale, thx, also love the weight list on this site.

I plan to change the alloy bars and stem after I have some time on the bike and know more what I want / need.

So it sounds like nice used Williams Aurora-SLC at 145g seat for $75 may be a good to try.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:00 am
Posts: 7
Ride, ride up hills, ride more. Then upgrade.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1804
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
[quote="KarlC" I knew going in that the 58cm frame was on the big size for me and they agreed and said fact that it is a compact frame helps a bit. [/quote]

A "compact" frame means it has a sloping top tube. That's it. The top tube is not a contact point. Its angle does not change how the bike fits.
If they actually said that I'd be wondering how good a job they did. Hopefully you mis-heard them.

The setup does look like it's too big for you- the stem is short and the seat is forward. But you have the bars fairly high so the next size smaller may have too short a head tube. Which is why it pays to look at the geometry before you buy the next bike- you might want a bike with a similar head tube but shorter top tube so you'll have a longer stem.

Bar height is a personal matter. It depends on how flexible you are and your core strength. If you make changes I suggest changing no more than 10mm at a time and spending a couple weeks at least getting used to the change before you make another one. Lower is better for aerodynamics but it can get more difficult to make power as your hip angle is decreased. Too low can also be uncomfortable. I set mine to the lowest that I find comfortable for the longest rides I do, on the order of 12-14 hours. For me that happens to be fairly low. But I've been working on that for the last 10 years and am very flexible for an old guy.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 2074
BTW, it'll say on the crank arm what model it is. From here it looks like a dura ace. If the previous owner has polished it off, check the code stamped in the back of the arm, usually round the pedal hole.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
eric wrote:
A "compact" frame means it has a sloping top tube. That's it. The top tube is not a contact point. Its angle does not change how the bike fits.
If they actually said that I'd be wondering how good a job they did. Hopefully you mis-heard them. The setup does look like it's too big for you- the stem is short and the seat is forward. But you have the bars fairly high so the next size smaller may have too short a head tube. Which is why it pays to look at the geometry before you buy the next bike- you might want a bike with a similar head tube but shorter top tube so you'll have a longer stem.

Bar height is a personal matter. It depends on how flexible you are and your core strength. If you make changes I suggest changing no more than 10mm at a time and spending a couple weeks at least getting used to the change before you make another one. Lower is better for aerodynamics but it can get more difficult to make power as your hip angle is decreased. Too low can also be uncomfortable. I set mine to the lowest that I find comfortable for the longest rides I do, on the order of 12-14 hours. For me that happens to be fairly low. But I've been working on that for the last 10 years and am very flexible for an old guy.



Yes the downward sloping top tube fits better when I'm standing and I believe they said it also has a taller head tube that helps with my reach.

Thanks for all of you suggestions, I will make slow changes


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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:11 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:08 am
Posts: 23
Location: San Diego Ca USA
mattr wrote:
BTW, it'll say on the crank arm what model it is. From here it looks like a dura ace. If the previous owner has polished it off, check the code stamped in the back of the arm, usually round the pedal hole.


I does clearly say Dura Ace on the parts, I just don't know what year or model #.


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