AHAHAH








....yes

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2013 rocky mountain vertex 29er
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I Carbolifted most of the paint off my Scott CR1 (http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92545) a while ago. I too was disappointed by the way it worked.

Two tips:

1. Remove the decals, if there are any, after your first application and removal of Carbolift. Carbolift does not remove plastic decals!

2. Make sure the frame heats up as much as possible when Carbolift is applied under the cling foil. On my second application I placed the frame outside in the burning sun for several hours and after 12 hours of Carbolift the result was much much better. My thermometer indicated some 40 degrees Celsius at that time.

By the way, you can remove the scratches by sanding them away with high grit sanding paper.

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My Renovo R1 wooden bike project

Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection

thanks for the tips, good to know the tiny scratches are normal.

The last carbolift attempt was done heating the room at 30 deg C (the max I can do) and putting lots of carbolift, it does remove most of the paint, but doesnt know remove the primer layer underneath the paint. According to carbolift, white paint is a real pain.

I wish I could put it outside, but its winter here, so I doubt -15C will do any good to the carbolift stripping

there are a good few hours of work left into this project, but I dont give up just yet, hell, 40g lost and the top tube and down tube remains to strip!

Anyone has some suggestion for a protective layer after I am finished stripping it? I would like to clear coat it OR paint it matte black. Does a matte black protective paint actually exists? I dont want to give it 5-6 layers of paint and then clear coat it, only a hard protective product applied in a few layers, if that is actually possible.

thanks for any suggestions

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Somewhere on the Berk prototype thread he suggests a semi gloss finish. Really nice IMO. Can't say if it's available here in Can.

Edit: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=80684&start=180

Pages 12-13

Take your time V., still three months, maybe four before snow starts to melt, and we get to go outside...


Louis

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i always use blades of the cutterknives to take the colour off.

i think this is a bit faster than sanding it down.
but it always depends on the colour. i hade some parts wich took just some minutes to strip and others take hours and hours.

did another cycle of carbolift, the thing still isnt working any good.

Also sanded a bit today.

Frame now weights: 1307g


6 hours sanding par devincification, sur Flickr

I keep receiveing some nice parts too! NOT telling you what right now

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small update

there is a total of ~8,5h of sanding now, thats without the carbolift job and paint scraping after the carbolift has done its job. I had to sand with my left hand cause my right hand's fingertips skin is too thin and my nails were sanded down....

Question: can anybody point out how I can easily remove all the fine dust from the frame once I sand it with very fine grit? Would alcool do the trick?

Frame weights: 1299g

here's what it looks now, its coming along.

8,5h sanding par devincification, sur Flickr

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If done properly, there shouldn't be any fine dust left whatsoever
Sometimes the protective coats can be quite thick. " Kill it with fire "

Oh, I guess the said dust is an effect created by the scratches in the resin over the carbon. Maybe it will disapear when I sand with super fine grit and wash it with a clean rag.

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2013 rocky mountain vertex 29er
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Just wipe the surface down with a rag and white spirit.

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"Step forward the climber and all those who worship at the altar of lightness" - R. Millar

What would be the American version of white spirit? WD40?

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2013 rocky mountain vertex 29er
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Paintbrush cleaner?

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My 2008 Scott Scale.

Lacquer thinner should work nicely. You can find it at Home Depot for about $10.

Wow... lots of work. I just found this thread. What does the top tube look like where you thought you had a crack?

Some questions:
How toxic is the carbolift stuff? Nasty fumes?

Are you sanding with only sand paper and using your hand? If you go to home depot, go to the paint section and buy some sanding sponge blocks. It will save your fingers and help you to sand the tubes and curves better.

Also a trick from the wood working guys is to rinse off the area or wipe it down with a wet rag (water). This will take away from all the dust that is collected in the water as slurry. Then run the sandpaper in water to declog it. Eventually you willneed to replace the sand paper when it is used up. Use lots of new sandpaper at 200 grit to work through the paint quickly.

Also don't worry about the scratches, they are superficial.

Lastly once you are done sanding. Buy some Acetone from canadian tire or home depot. Wear gloves! The Acetone is what is used to clean up the carbon after curing.

once got all the paint removed you should use finer and finer sand paper up to 1000 grit to improve the surface quality before painting it with clear coat. Once you get to teh clear coat stage, maybe worth your time to stop by an auto body shop and ask if they will shoot clear coat on your frame for cash. Don't forget to protect the threads in the BB area and headset at all times.

I've subscribed to this now. Very interested in seeing the progress.

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Hey thanks for the comments

to answer your questions:

-the carbolift has some kind of fumes but IIRC they are not supposed to be toxic, im doing the whole thing in my very small basement bathroom... without the fan runing to keep the room warm.

-ATM im using the carbolift to soften the paint and finishing the work with sandpaper. Im using some 220 grit wet paper to get rid of the paint until I get to resin, then I stop, it scratches the resin but as you said, its not a major problem. What I plan on doing after the paint is removed is get rid of the very small white spots here and there with some 400 grit wet paper. Once this is done, im going to sand the whole frame very lightly with some 600 grit wet. Finally, I am going to find something that gets as close to 1000 grit wet as possible to finish off the whole thing before spraying it.

-I guess I could pay someone to spray it, not a bad idea. But Jure (Berk prototype) told me I could simply spray one coat of clear on it and being done with it. Spraying lots of coats would make the frame "more sensitive" to projectile such as rocks or other scratches, it would make the mutiple coats unsticking from the frame and make white spots, wich I dont want. With a simple coat, I can sand down the minor scratches and respray locally.

Question: Can you please point out wich way to proceed with the acetone. IE use it when im completely down with sand (finished sanding with 1000 grit wet) or after im done with the rough 220 grit sanding?

As an update, I have sanded the clear coating of the downtube this morning, I am now waiting 1 day for the paint to harden back and I will give the last carbolift cycle on tuesday night. Only remaining spots are: downtube, headtube and arround the hose bosses on the top tube.

Stay tuned!

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