wow , Fantastic work . The bike looks great, keeps on getting better. Donald, can I ask about your ax brakes and how you managed to get the weight down so low.

artray, I assume you are asking about the weight of the brakes. The center bolts are aluminum, I shaved a little carbon off in specific areas of the body, I am using my own Ti springs and my own handmade aluminum cable stop hardware.

Cheers Donald.

Hard to imagine this bike is nearly 1/2 the weight of my evo with training wheels on it. Good work!

Donald,
How did you modify the THM Clavicula cranks?

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

Gum, sorry I did not answer you sooner but I have been gone for six days without a computer. What I did was sand the back of the arms, more material removed from the center area of the arms. I removed material from the axel, it is like ribbed now. I removed some from the back of the pedal inserts and also from the back of the spider. So I removed something from everywhere on the back. I have been using this crank for over seven years. It is a little heavier than the more recent compact ones. Also what I did, did not make them much lighter. I remember it weighs 373 grams with the bearings. When I got this crank they had not made a compact yet. And so your new crank should be lighter. Also remember if you do anything it voids any kind of replacement. I have Stork power arms on my other bike, they are over 10 years old, no problems.

Thanks Donald. You've done more than I think I'm willing to do with the cranks at this point. I'm just removing the clearcoat mainly to match my frame better, but the weight savings is fun too

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

hi Donald,


amazing bike i totally understand what you are doing. i ride a look kg96 as a single speed but mine is 6,2 kg. i am constantly thinking of shaving an milling some parts on my bike the i kinda have a fear of doing it but to be honest i got my sr superlight quill stem from 260 gr to 210 which is the weight of a cinelli grammo stem anyway you guys here do incredible stuff i am still tinkering with aluminium.

question i am thinking of building myself a pair of light wheels i have in mind echo sl hubs for trials bikes and sapim laser spokes. one problem i cannot find a pair of light clincher aluminium rims can you point some cheap ones that will do with some weight shaving ? i have a pair of fiamme ergal which are 260 gr per rim but hey are tubulars and to be honest unspoked they are flexy as spaghetti

Welcome to the forum craciunptr, Since this is weightweenies, there are many people doing lots of modifying of parts. when one doesn't have a lot of experience doing this as well as time riding said parts, then some fears are expected. I don't know how much you weigh, kinds of roads you ride on, etc. but i have had very good results for many, many years. That includes making many, many rims lighter. Stans makes a light rim. You could also go on e-bay, buy some good used American Classic sprint 350 wheels just for the rims. No matter what the hole drilling, you can drill new holes to any spoke count you want, as making many holes between the spokes removes a fair amount of weight.

Donald, what are your thoughts about using the American Classic rims that are 28f and 32r and matching them up with new 20f/24r hubs, lighter spokes and aluminum nipples. Should save some weight over the original 1300g per pair.

Currently the wheels are 28h Radial Front, 32h 3-Cross Rear so if you were to go 20h radial front do you think it would be strong enough and do you think going 24 rear would have to be 3-cross?

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BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5890g/12.98 lbs

Hey, were you climbing OLH 2 Sundays ago(4/22)? I should have stopped to check it out. Regardless, if that was you, nice to see a WW machine on the road being used...

Bmanx, I have two sets of AC sprint 350 that I made into 20 hole f. & 24 r., that I have used for years, actually I have done that for at least 15 years. I use them on my other bike and they get lots of miles on them. I have never, ever had a problem making and using AC sprint 350 rims in 20 hole. I would say go for it and have fun Foofighter, that was me out on OLH on my Rue. I love that climb and Kings Mt. If you ever see me try to call out or somthing. I will have the Rue near the start line of the second stage of the Tour of Calif, down at the Marina. And of course I will have my scale with me because when people lift the bike they usually believe the weight but its just fun when they also see it on a scale..

Hi donald

can you post some pictures with your wheels especially i want to see the drilled holes and such

cheers

Petre


btw ii just bought a focus cayo frame it has a cracked seat stay but i can fix it (cost me only 60 quid ( i'm studying modelmaking in uk) i haven't weighted it but will do tomorrow seems pretty light. i am looking for a light fork at the moment to go with the frame.

i started rounding up parts to have a light build got myself a 95 gram seat post i'll buy a slr saddle, fsa pro crankset are cheap so i'm looking into buying those. as for the wheels here is my problem as i said i found some really light hubs and not very expensive i know the spokes. the thing is the hubs come in 32 drilling - can i use a 16 hole rim ? or use a 36 hole rim i mean how does it work i really need to use these hubs. (does lower spoke number mean that your rims crack in time?

thanks
and sorry for being such a newbie:)

I LOVE this build! Glad to see it gets ridden too

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Trek 5500 - 13.75lbs on a $1400 Budget
20 gram 1x10 chain guide

Craciunptr, I will put up some pictures of my wheels, hopefully some time soon, I have been very busy lately. You got a good deal on your frame, and you could take the paint off to make it lighter. I have repaired seat stays, and with a little knowledge, you can do this yourself. If it was a chain stay I would not try it. You can use a 16 hole rim with a 36 hole hub, I have done this a few times many, many years ago. Less spokes, depending on rider weight, roads, etc. can cause cracking at the spoke hole, depending on many factors, does the rim have eyelets, those that don't, some rims have more material there, different qualities of aluminum, spoke tension, etc. I have been building my own wheels for over 30 years, and overall for front wheels I don't build with a high spoke tension, even on lower spoke count, although it is a little higher with less spokes. Even tension is important. With more and more experience one gets a "feel" for it. Don't forget if you have a deeper section rim and a higher flange hub, whereby the spokes are much shorter, that makes some difference, and of course people get into spoke quality, guage, etc. Everyone starts somewhere on the road to doing things themselves, learning as one gains experience. It can be very rewarding, fun, a way to save money and some sense of satisfaction for the overall cycling experience. I wish you good luck with everything you are doing.